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We took the Coast Starlight from Seattle to Los Angeles on June 2 and 3. The train staff described the service as a soft launch of the new Coast Starlight service announced for June 10. Most but not all of the new features were included.
I don't intend this to be a conventional trip report of the type that I've often read and enjoyed here, but rather a fairly quick list of observations. This is the first time my husband and I have taken the CS from start to finish; we've taken it from L.A. up to Santa Barbara a couple times for day trips. We also took the Sunset Limited RT Los Angeles to New Orleans about 18 months ago, and my comments are really comparing this experience with that one, my only other Amtrak LD trip. (We're friends and occasional fellow travelers of Vicki, aka HopefulRailUser.)
We had two roomettes (5 and 6) in the middle Sleeper of three Sleeper cars -- much to the train attendant's amusement, but we had views out both sides and nobody had to crawl into the upper coffin at night. Our attendant offered us a choice of California champagne or apple juice shortly after we boarded -- a nice touch, but you can guess at the champagne quality. There was a card in each roomette describing the wine tastings scheduled for the Parlor Car. There was no route guide (I likely have the name wrong, but the Sunset Limited's guide provided a map and some information about what we passed along the way and it really added to the experience). Clearly, new bedding is not part of the re-launch -- it was clean and very worn. Actually, clean and very worn describes just about every aspect of our Sleeper.
The kiddy Arcade and the Parlor Car's espresso machine hadn't yet arrived.
Most of the changes were in the Parlor Car. I won't describe the car physically, because I've seen descriptions and photos here already. Oh, except that the Parlor Car's floor is an inch or two lower than the adjacent cars' floors and it's easy to stumble a bit entering or leaving. I think the dining tables are a bit smaller than those in the Dining Car and they are set for just 2 people, although I did see 4 people at one table for lunch the first day. There were 8 tables in all, and their menu is separate from the Dining Car menu (until they run out of all their entrees, see below). There are two choices for each meal and there are separate menus for Day 1 and Day 2. The lunch choices were salad or pasta dishes, the dinner choices were fish or meat dishes. The breakfast choices were some sort of fritatta and a variation on the Continental breakfast. There's also cocktail service and a bar menu, with appetizers available for purchase ($5 to $7).
The only meal we had from the Parlor Car menu was Day 1 lunch. My salad was pretty good, although the lettuce could have been fresher/crisper. My husband wasn't thrilled with either choice and tried the chicken wings from the Appetizer menu ($7), which arrived steaming (OK, they came from the microwave) and he said they were very good, as well as very messy. We also had Day 1 dinner in the Parlor Car, but as it turns out, not from their menu. Our reservation was for 7:45pm, just a little bit later than we wanted, but the 7:45pm reservations weren't called until around 8:20. We were immediately told that one dinner choice (short ribs) were out and it seemed to take the staff a fair amount of time and effort to figure out that we could still sit in the Parlor Car but order from the Dining Car menu. I ordered the Scallops (the other PC choice) and my husband ordered the flat iron steak from the DC menu. Then we watched a cook (judging from his uniform) carry a large pan to the steam table type thing in the middle of the Parlor Car...and drop it. Not sure what was in it. A few minutes later, another large pan slid out of the same apparatus and spilled all over the floor. I was facing in that direction and nobody was near it...I suppose some sort of fastener wasn't tightly fastened. Our server was soon back to let us know what spilled -- the rest of the scallops. So I ordered trout, the Dining Car's fish of the day, which ultimately arrived nicely salmon-colored, salmon-smelling, and salmon-tasting. It was quite tasty salmon, bodes well for the Dining Car menu. But the fact that nobody noticed that it wasn't trout speaks volumes about the newness of the staff. Just to complete the meal description, my husband reported the flat iron steak to be decent enough. Thereafter, we ate in the Dining Car with knowledgeable service and distinctly better food than I recall from the Sunset Limited, although certainly not fabulous. There was no hint of the infamous Bob Evans Breakfast Scramble nor of the Chicken Fried Steak. (Nor was there any bagpipe music playing softly in the background; perhaps that will arrive along with the espresso machine.)
Discussing it afterwards, we both think the Parlor Car menu may have been designed with a bit too much of a "girly" focus. More of the items (judging by their descriptions, since we sampled very little of it) appealed to me than to my husband, but the menu could use a plain and simple item or two. I think it would work much better if they offered the Dining Car menu, plus one or two Parlor Car "specials".
There was no Rails and Trails speaker on this train and I neglected to ask whether they were being discontinued or if it was just a one-time thing.
I went to the first of the two wine and cheese tastings. Each costs $5 and includes 4 wines and 4 cheeses. They have selected Washington wines for the northern day and California wines for the southern day. Oregon is to be represented by the cheese selection, just on Day 1, I think, although there was a problem with the cheese delivery and we were served California cheeses. It was pleasant and the server was both pleasant and eager. The wines were white/red/red/white, an unfortunate sequence bacause the glasses weren't rinsed before the final white wine. I wonder why someone decided to sequence the wines this way. They use all of the Parlor Car seating for the wine tasting and therefore clear out the Parlor Car beforehand. I've heard that some of the cleared-out passengers weren't happy about that. I'd think that could be largely addressed by some pre-emptive communications -- "Parlor Car is available to all Sleeping Car passengers at all hours except for approximately one hour each afternoon, when it is reserved for the wine tasting participants".
All of the staff were pleasant and eager to make the re-launch succeed, but some were clearly inexperienced and this was most evident in the Parlor Car. Have any of you ever had a meal served by students? The service had that sort of a feel -- earnest and pleasant but amateurish. I've just remembered one other observation, probably related to the experience issue. There's a small shelf below the windows in the Parlor Car, at least in the section where the comfy lounge chairs are. It's only a few inches deep, but with no tables, it's where you put your mug, glass, wrappers, and (where I was seated) orange peels. None of this was picked up before starting the wine tasting. Eventually, someone came by with a tray and kindly invited us tasters to pick up our predecessors' trash and place it on his tray. Hmmm.
I realize this summary focuses on what didn't work so well, so I want to end by saying that it was a most enjoyable trip -- fabulous scenery, of course -- and uniformly pleasant staff. They do, however, need to do some more work on food and service in the Parlor Car. And I really wished I had asked about the route guide. I'm ready to take the northbound trip soon.
smitty195 Member # 5102
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Thanks for this great description of things! I'm really curious to see how the relaunch goes tomorrow. I will be on #14 out of Los Angeles heading up to Seattle. My fingers are crossed.
sbalax Member # 2801
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Thanks for the great report Sue. I wish I'd known you would be passing through SBA. We could have met you as we did Vicki and Art.
It sounds as if they are having some teething problems with the new service. And I was under the impression that they would only be using cars that had been through the rehab process. Isn't that true on the Empire Builder?
I'm going to give them a couple of months to work things out before I try the CS again.
Frank in sunny SBA
sbalax Member # 2801
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I forgot to mention that the Route Guide is available online. That doesn't excuse it not being available onboard, however.
Frank in still sunny SBA
HopefulRailUser Member # 4513
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Super report Sue. Thanks
smitty195 Member # 5102
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Frank if you are down at the depot tomorrow, I usually step off the train for the fresh air stop at SBA. I'll most likely have my blue Coast Starlight polo shirt on if you want to say hello. (I'm in the 1432 sleeper)
Mesaman Member # 6720
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It sounds to me like the new Coast Starlight is only marginally better than the old Starlight I experienced in May. What appeared to be inexperienced staff then is apparently still a problem. On the 4 long distance trains I rode on for that trip, Coast Starlight, Empire Builder, Southwest Chief, and Capitol Limited, only the Empire Builder had Route Guides in the room.
PaulB Member # 4258
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Thanks for the trip report. I'll be on #14 from LA-Santa Barbara, and #11 back to LA tomorrow! I'm glad that they are performing a soft launch, and hopefully will use this opportunity to work out any bugs.
MightyAlweg Member # 5407
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Great report! Thanks for the info.
After I went to Train Day, I was hyped up enough to book a Roomette on the Coast Starlight from PDX to LAX at the end of August. I'm flying up to the Northwest on Virgin America (even splurged on First Class, since it was only an extra 110 bucks more), and after Train Day I decided to give the Coast Starlight another try to get back home.
I'm fascinated by the Parlour Car dining concept. There's no way to say this on a message board to people who don't know me and not have myself sound like a snob, but I'll say it anyway... On my few long distance train travels I find the Dining Car experience to be a bit iffy when it comes to table companions. Sometimes I get some polite, lovely people who have fascinating things to say. And sometimes I get seated next to some slobby dorks who appear to have never eaten anywhere nicer than a McDonalds and have absolutely no grasp on the social art of polite dinner conversation nor even the foggiest idea about basic table etiquette.
There I said it, I'm a snob, I know. But honestly, being seated with strangers in the Dining Car can be a real gamble when it comes to tablemates. I don't want to focus on a Coach Vs. Sleepers thing, but I would think dining in the Parlor Car increases the chances of sitting with people who know how to hold a fork and hold a conversation. And if there's a chance to just dine on my own and enjoy the scenery out the window, that would be even better.
I like the idea of special cheeses chosen for each wine, instead of the generic cheddar and swiss cubes they served last summer. I'm sure they'll get the hang of how to serve and present a wine tasting after a few weeks of practice. God forbid a Sommelier takes the Coast Starlight and sees how they are serving and presenting before they get their act together! ;-)
smitty195 Member # 5102
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quote:Originally posted by PaulB: I'm glad that they are performing a soft launch, and hopefully will use this opportunity to work out any bugs.
If I understand things correctly, the soft launch is what has been happening for the last several weeks. That was supposed to get the bugs out. The official relaunch (no longer a soft launch) begins tomorrow (June 10th).
smitty195 Member # 5102
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quote:Originally posted by MightyAlweg:
I'm flying up to the Northwest on Virgin America (even splurged on First Class, since it was only an extra 110 bucks more
I fly Virgin America all the time, and they are a great airline! I just got off a flight an hour ago into LAX. Here is a tip on Virgin America in case you're not aware: If you book a coach ticket, when it comes time to check-in online (24 hours prior to departure), you can upgrade to first class for only $50 if there is space available. When you go to check-in, click on "Change Seats" and you can then see if any First Class seats are available. If so, just choose your seat and pay the $50, and there you go!
MightyAlweg Member # 5407
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smitty195, you are kidding! Now you tell me! ;-)
Looking at the flights for tomorrow from LAX to SEA-TAC, I see there are lots of First Class seats still open on the two morning flights. I wonder if that trick will work in mid August too?
Mike Smith Member # 447
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Good advise on the first class tickets! I'll try it with Continental.
On the CS northern part of the trip, what red wines are they serving? 2005 was an excellent year for red wine in the Columbia River Valley. If they are serving a good Merlot from there, it would be well worth the $5!
RRRICH Member # 1418
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Hi Sue!!! Welcome to this forum!! I enjoyed your report on the "soft relaunch" of the Parlour Car on the CS -- my wife and I will be traveling LAX to SEA on 7/7 and are looking forward to the "new" Coast Starlight experience -- we'll probably have our lunches in the Parlour Car, but will probably have dinner in the diner. Thanks for your report!!
"Railroad Rich" Kimmel
smitty195 Member # 5102
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quote:Originally posted by MightyAlweg: smitty195, you are kidding! Now you tell me! ;-)
Looking at the flights for tomorrow from LAX to SEA-TAC, I see there are lots of First Class seats still open on the two morning flights. I wonder if that trick will work in mid August too?
You're welcome! One thing I should mention is that one of the gate agents told me that the 24 hour upgrade to First Class may have an increase of $25 (to $75) sometime in the next few months. In my opinion, it's well worth it even with the fare increase. I've got about 15 or so trips on VA so far this year, and I've flown First every time except once. Also, they advertise their First Class seats as being "massage" seats, but they're really not. It's a lumbar support that slowly cycles in and out. But the seats are huge, you have an enormous amount of leg room, you've got your own in-flight entertainment system that they named "Red" (touchscreen technology, DISH Netowrk live TV, pay per view premium TV shows and movies, live Google maps that show where you are, in-flight chat room and instant messages to other seats, and touchscreen food and beverage ordering). They are a cashless airline---you swipe your credit card in the remote control to make a purchase.
Have you seen their pre-departure safety video? It's pretty funny. It's on YouTube:
And here's one more tip for flying VA: They charge a $15 fee for premium seating in Coach if you are located at an exit row or in Row 3. In my opinion, the exit rows don't really give you too much more room and I would not bother paying the 15 bucks to sit there. However, Row 3 is outstanding! It is well worth it to book a seat in Row 3 if First Class is full. Once you get on-board, you'll see exactly what I mean.
Also, you don't have to rush to check-in online like you do with Southwest Airlines to get a good boarding spot. They board the old-fashioned way---by row numbers.
One last tip: If you ever fly into or out of SFO and you are in First Class with VA, you can stop by the ticket counter and purchase a pass for $40 to "Club Atlantic". This is the premium lounge used by Virgin Atlantic Airlines for International First Class travelers (VA is in the Int'l Terminal at SFO). The lounge is ultra-modern, with a full bar and full menu---all included in the $40 fee. Beautiful bathrooms with private showers, big screen TV, and an awesome view of the 28's and 1's (runways). Virgin America is absolutely the BEST airline around. They've got a customer for life with me.
graynt Member # 17
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Only three weeks until my lady and I ride the Starlight from LAX-PDX. I made the reservations about six months ago, and I was anxiously watching the board for updates on the closure in Oregon and if everything would be rolling by July.
I ve ridden the CS several times, only once did we have a parlour car. Question: Are the meals in the parlor car extra or are they included in the sleeper fare? I m looking forward to the all the new amenties on the CS. This will be the first long distance ride for my girlfriend and I picked the Starlight last December in anticipation of the relaunch. We rode from WAS-CUM on train day, so she could get the feel of a superliner.
We are flying from Philly to LA, spending a few days touring SoCal by car, staying at the Metro Plaza on July 1 (gotta have that Phillipes french dip) and boarding the CS on the 2nd. We are renting another car from the Portland airport and will explore the Olympic peninsula and take a day long ferry trip over to Victoria from Port Angeles, before heading back to Seattle and Portland to fly back to Philly on the 7th.
My original intention was to train it all the way, but time constraints and the price of sleepers for all the legs of the trip put a halt to that idea. Also, I didn't want her to OD on her first long distance trip, so the Starlight seemed to be the way to go...I figure with the price of gas and airfares going sky high, the train is looking better and better.
I ve been taking LD Amtrak trips on my own for almost twenty years, so it will be nice to share the experience. I will post a trip report on the Starlight when I return.
smitty195 Member # 5102
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I will post a report over on Trainorders (www.trainorders.com) with photos and descriptions from the relaunch today. I would post it here, but I'm so frustrated at figuring out how to post photos on this forum that I have given up. If you're not a member of Trainorders, you will only be able to view thumbnail photos.
When you rent your car in Portland, are you sure you are renting from the correct location?? If I'm not mistaken, you will pay a much higher rental rate at the airport due to the very high airport taxes. Did you know that there is a direct phone line to Hertz inside of the Portland Amtrak station? It's near the baggage counter hanging on the wall. When you pick up the phone, it rings the Hertz desk a few blocks away and once you are there, they will come and pick you up (no extra charge). You might want to check on this to save some money. If your concern is returning the rental car when you're done, and you want to be at the airport, no problem....return the rental car in downtown Portland where you picked it up, and then have them drop you off at the MAX (light rail) platform and take the train directly to the airport. It will save you some big bucks!
sbalax Member # 2801
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Smitty--
Sorry I had other commitments today and could not be there for a meet and greet. I'll look forward to your trip report. From your "other" posting it looks like there were plenty of people down there to meet you anyhow!
Mike--
As part of the "Continental Family" I appreciate your business. Sadly, there is no last minute upgrade that I know of except for those based on Elite Status. You could also, of course, buy a full fare coach ticket and, if a seat in F/C is available, be declared "Elite for the Day" and get to ride up front. As non-revs it's been a looong time since we've been upfront domestically. And that's with 38 years seniority! Overseas travel is a different story since the "free" Elite upgrades don't apply.
Frank in gloomy SBA
graynt Member # 17
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Smitty, thanks for the tip on renting a car in Portland. We are arriving on Amtrak and leaving from the airport, so I figured I d go with the airport car rental. I did reserve from Hertz and I got an incredible rate, and I can also drive the car into Canada,which will add another highlight of our trip. Thanks!
Three weeks from today we will be on the Coast Starlight! Can't wait!
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