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My wife and I will be traveling to Phoenix in late Sept. for her father's 90th Birthday. Of course the best way to get there is by Amtrak. So we will be cashing in some AGR points and heading out on a routing only a train lover would appreciate: Crescent-Birmingham to DC, Capitol Ltd. to Chicago, CZ to SF. Rental car to Santa Barbara and train into LAUPT. We'll then fly to Phoenix and return home on Southwest.
My question for all you west coasters (and others familiar with the area) is: how would you recommend we explore that spectacular part of our country? Where would you stay and eat, and where would you go in our limited amount of time.
We have taken the Starlight and now want a much closer look. We arrive in SF on a Monday evening and fly out of LA late on Thursday. The only train portion I am considering is Caltrain SF-San Jose (never been on that segment) and Santa Barbara into LA on the day of departure. In between we'll rent a car (one way) in San Jose to see the sights.
The highpoints on our current list are the state parks along Big Sur, Pebble Beach drive (maybe Monterey aquarium) San Simeon (Hearst Castle) and some time in Santa Barbara where we will then leave for LA. My wife will also be on the lookout for any good quilt shops.
Possible lodging places include Mosser Hotel in SF; Ripplewood Inn on Big Sur, Sand Pebbles Inn in Cambria or Petit Soleil B&B in SLO for our second night; Marina Beach motel in SB on the last night. Our taste in lodging goes towards moderately priced inns that are a little unique.
Thanks for your suggestions and sorry that, as is often the case, I seem to wander from a straight Amtrak topic. Of course I will provide a trip report.
sbalax Member # 2801
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It sounds as if you have things pretty well thought out! I'm not sure if we will be in town when you are here but you should have no trouble finding plenty to see and do. (We will also be coming down the coast but on a 12 night "Wine Cruise" from Vancouver to Los Angeles.)
If your hotel in San Francisco doesn't work out we've always liked the King George. I just checked out the Marina Beach and it's a very good location and looks nice. There are several older motels near the beach that have been redone into nice properties in the last couple of years.
I suspect you know about "Car Free Santa Barbara" and also about the Flyaway from LAUPT to LAX. If you were flying from Burbank you could just get off at the Burbank Airport Station and cross the street to the airport.
I'm going to send an e-mail to a friend who is a quilter and if I get any information I'll pass it on to you.
Frank in warm and sunny SBA. Viva la Fiesta!
smitty195 Member # 5102
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I'm not sure how much time you will have in the San Francisco area, but since you'll have a rental car, you should not miss out on seeing wine country---Napa. It's an easy drive from SF (or from anywhere in the Bay Area for that matter). If you have time, at least play tourist and drive through the area and check it out. Drive up SIlverado Trail, and return on Highway 29 (which goes by many different names). The area is very beautiful, and well worth the visit. There is also the Napa Valley Wine Train in Napa, but you probably won't have time for that (or will you??).
smitty195 Member # 5102
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I should have said a little bit more about wine country....it's not just the City of Napa---you actually need to go north of there to see the beauty. Go up Silverado Trail through Rutherford, St. Helena, etc.
sojourner Member # 3134
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What about the wine country near Santa Barbara, Smitty? That might be more convenient for this trip; going to it by SF is something of a detour. Also, we loved visiting Muir Woods and lunching in Sausalito, then taking ferry back to SF . . . be sure whatever you do you take a ferry ride in SF. Also loved walking up north of Fisherman's Wharf (wharf itself too toursity) all the way toward El Presidio and into the Marina area and that semiabandoned Pacific Arts building there, with gorgeous flowers; sorry I forget the name but will look it up if I have time (it's featured in the film Time After Time, which has nice shots of San Francisco; also Smitty recommended Monk, a great TV show set in SF, though some scenes are actually not filmed there).
Anyway, when we were in Santa Barbara, we took a wine country bus tour, which was a little pricey but was great because you really don't want to drive a lot when you're a-sippin. The mountains we visited were very nice. That Danish town (I'm blanking on the name, starts with S I think--it's in that famous wine movie--I'm also blanking on the name of the film too, but it starred Paul Giamatti) was kitschy but kinda fun too.
OTOH, I would not give up seeing Santa Barbara for the inland wine country. Santa Barbara was one of the nicest places I ever was, so much to see and do . . . and I thank Frank for recommending it.
We also stayed in San Luis Obispo (lots of cheap motels) and took the public bus (which cost about $1.50) to Heart Castle at San Simeon. I actually found the Castle kinda creepy--if I had all that money, I would not choose to live in a dimly lit place that looked like a medieval cloister--but the pools were nice, and also the zebras. Good view, too. What I liked best, though, was the bus ride through beaches, one called Moonstone I think?, heading up along the coast from San Luis Obispo to the Castle. The bus driver was also incredibly nice, waited for us to see some of the film before leaving! even though it made him a tad late I think. (It was not a busy bus.) We also liked San Luis Obispo, simple but nice, with mission, little walks along the creek, and they had a farmer's market plus the world's best chocolate ice cream in a chocolate shop.
We then took the Pacific Surfliner to Santa Barbara, which was nice too but foggy in the early morning . . . and Santa Barbara was definitely a highlight. We liked the beach, wharf, walks along it, mountain views, mission, old historical buildings and museums, gardens, parks, even the shops. Had a fantastic lunch at a downtown New Orleans style restaurant with incredible bourbon bread pudding and peppery rolls on the table . . . had dinner outdoors on the beach . . . really lovely, and splendid weather.
train lady Member # 3920
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Sojourner are you thinking of the town of Solvang? Does anyone know about the Madonna Inn? I thought it was in SlO but am not sure. That is the place that was all pink with a great restaurant and beautiful rooms.
palmland Member # 4344
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Great suggestions everyone. Smitty, since we have spent time in San Francisco (and Napa Valley), our stay there is just really an overnight before taking the train to San Jose and getting our car for the drive down the coast. But the Napa Valley wine train behind their gorgeous Alco's was a real treat.
Our main objective is to explore some of the remote areas along the Big Sur on the Pacific Coast Highway before getting back to civilization.
Sojourner- I think the movie is 'Sideways' and yes we'd like to check out a vineyard or two if time permits. San Luis Obispo does sound nice and we hope to have lunch there. I've been to the Hearst castle - but just after high school graduation! So looking forward to a return and my wife has not been there.
Frank - thanks for the SF hotel suggestion - it is exactly the kind of place we were looking for, and a little less expensive than the one we had planned. Any recommendations in Santa Barbara for meals?
sbalax Member # 2801
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Yep, it's Solvang. And there's certainly plenty of wine tasting to do in the Santa Ynez Valley. A current favorite is Roblar. And, as a suggestion, you might want to take Highway 154 (San Marcos Pass Road) from Solvang/Buellton to Santa Barbara. Lots of great scenery. You would miss some coastal views and possible train spotting, though.
I hope the King George works for you. We haven't stayed there recently but have never been disappointed.
Where to eat in Santa Barbara.... It's easier to say where NOT to eat. I would skip all of the restaurants on Stearns Wharf. Two possible exceptions would be Longboards upstairs above The Harbor and the crab place at the very end of the wharf.
The original and only remaining Sambo's Pancake House is on Cabrillo very near your motel. For breakfast I like the Beachbreak Cafe (State and Guttierrez or the East Beach Grill on the lower level of the Cabrillo Bathhouse (East Cabrillo Blvd.) It's literally on the sand. For a nice dinner downtown we usually send people to Joe's (a Santa Barbara institution) or Cafe Buenos Aires. Both are on State Street.
You have my mouth watering. And it's not even lunch time yet.
I'll think of some more things for you as the date gets closer.
My e-mail is my screen name @ cox.net.
Frank in sunny SBA
P.S. In Buellton where the guys stayed in "Sideways" there is a wonderful restaurant called "Ellen's Pancake House". It's always crowded but worth the wait. It's what I call "real" food.
sojourner Member # 3134
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Yes, Sideways and Solvang . . . sorry for the senior moments. And the place we ate on the wharf/water in Santa Barbara WAS Longboards upstairs, Frank--in fact, I think you had recommended it. We got their early for dinner and had seats with a great view, so it was rather lovely, even though all we had were burgers and fries, nothing special in the food department.
I am also now checking my notes: The fantastic New Orleans-y restaurant where we had the delicious lunch in Santa Barbara was called the Palace Grill, 8 E Cota at State; we got there early too, and it got quite busy after we got our seats. And it was "bread pudding with whisky sauce" we shared for dessert--you had to order it with the main course so they'd have it ready for dessert; I also had decent crabcakes and recall very tasty muffins on the table (some had hot peppers in them), so good we brought the extras back to our hotel room. And I see I also wrote down Abita beer--must have been good too!
In San Luis Obispo, the fantastic chocolate ice cream was sold in a place downtown called Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory--which may be a chain, I seem to recall seeing others elsewhere, but the ice cream was local, I'm pretty sure, made by a Doc Burnstein. Also delicious were Cowboy Cookies at the Farmer's Market, which we bought for the next leg of our train trip. We had dinner in SLO at Big Sky Cafe, which was OK tho not as memorable as the other places mentioned.
The beach areas we went thru (on the public bus) from SLO to San Simeon included Morro Bay and Cambria (where Moonstone Beach was); there was a very nice Embarcadero/boardwalk in Morro Bay and an interesting boulder in the water; and there was a nice walk along the water at Moonstone Beach as well--had we been in a car, we'd have stopped at one or both. I also see in my notes that there was a Mexican restaurant, supposed to be very good, in Morro Bay called Chapala, 2816 Main St, 805-772-4492, known for shrimp tacos and Al Pastor, but we did not stop.
On November 16 2008 the New York Times ran an article in the travel section 36 Hours in Santa Barbara which may be of further interest. It should be free on line, though you may have to join their website (free to do) to get it.
Gilbert B Norman Member # 1541
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Yes, Sideways, was "schmaltz", and I think both male leads, Miles (Paul Giamatti) and Jack (Thomas Haden Church), vied with each other to be "the most unforgettable louse you ever met".
But somebody, be it the Producers or the Screenwriters, but maybe the actors, Mr. Giamatti, as well as Virginia Madsen and Sandra Oh, themselves, really have a love and knowledge of Grape Juice.
sbalax Member # 2801
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Soujourer==
I think the Big Sky may have been one of my suggestions. We've discovered that the experience there, like so many other places, depends on who happens to be in the kitchen at the moment.
BTW, when we were at "The Spot" in Carp with Vicki and Art I saw some of the Mexican food going out and it looked very tempting.
Frank in sunny and not so warm today SBA
PullmanCo Member # 1138
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Solvang!!!!!
In Buellton, at the US 101 interchange for Solvang, is Pea Soup Andersens
Frankly, I'd consider coming down the Pacific Coast Highway (California 1) from Monterey to Lompoc. Hearst Castle in San Simeon is a sight to see. Morro Bay...there's a magic there.
Stopping at Gaviota even for a couple hours, especially if you're anywhere near train time... seeing a freight, or the Daylight, cross that trestle is just amazing.
smitty195 Member # 5102
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I'll "second" the Pea Soup Andersen's recommendation! Mmmmmm.....good stuff, and a local (national??) legend.
palmland: Okay....glad you already got to see the Napa Valley and ride the awesome Wine Train!
graynt Member # 17
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"Sideways" is one of my favorite movies. We actually stayed in a Days Inn in Buellton which is the motel the two lead characters stayed in. The restaurant featured in the movie was The Hitching Post II..great steaks.
We were there last summer. It was part of a trip on the Coast starlight from LA to Seattle. We stopped in Santa Barbara for a couple of days to explore the wine country and to go to Los Olivos and Solvang.
pismobum Member # 2628
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You need to get down to Monterey/Carmel, do the Aquarium if you want, explore Monterey itself, and find a hotel. Next day get an EARLY start, drive hiway 1 and do Hearst Castle then go into SLO for the Madonna Inn. IF that day was thursday, then definitely do Farmers Market downtown SLO and eat from a street BBQ. 3rd day head down 101 (no real coast access until near SBA) and do Solvang or whatever and spend another night.
PullmanCo Member # 1138
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If you can go upscale, a great hotel in Monterey is the historic Casa Munras.
RR4me Member # 6052
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Sounds like all good suggestions. I heartily agree with the Monterey Aquarium visit, nad a nice hotel there is the Monterey Bay Inn, if you can get a room on the bay. We stayed there once, just opened the sliders all night, listened to the sounds. Bought dinner at various places on the wharf, and ate on the balcony. Driving down hwy 1 through Big Sur to SLO is a wonderful drive, last time I went was by bicycle though. There are "wine countries" all over Calif now, even PAso Robles has some good ones!!! IF you happen to be in SLO on the right day, (Thursday, I think)and the Farmer's Market is on, that's a good bet. When I was a student in SLO, the only thing we found interesting at the MAdonna Inn were the restrooms. (easitly entertained - we'd go out to the trestle at night and drink beers). The Morro Bay wharf is nice, and you can get some good seafood.
palmland Member # 4344
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Inspired by everyone's ideas, I have added another day to our SF-LA segment. Also, since we have friends south of San Luis Obispo (who will be on a trip when we are there) we have decided to save that area for another visit when they can act as tour guides.
As a result we will spend two days doing a circuit of San Jose/Monterey/Pacific Coast Highway/San Simeon and back to San Jose checking out some of those vineyards near Paso Robles.
Then we'll board the Starlight for the trip to Santa Barbara and spend a night and most of next day before flying out of Burbank. Gotta check out the 'improved' version of the Pacific Parlor Car. Should be quite a journey.
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