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I'm a newbie when it comes to garden Railroads and after looking around for about a year, decided to take the plunge and start my own railroad. I have a section in my back yard that spans 9'x 50'. I just recently ordered some Aristo brass rail in 8 foot sections with lots of flex track. I also purchased a rail bender. Shold I purchase shorter segments? Last season I trenched from the house and put some outdoor receptacles in the area.
I'm a little unclear on how I should run the track wires. Do I run the under the rail bed before laying track or do I run them as I need them?
Also in regards to power, I've only seen one outdoor transformer (the LGB shed type). Are there any suggestions for other transformers? The area of yard is 40 - 50' from my house so an indoor transformer is not useful.
I'm open to any ideas and suggestions for being new to the hobby. Money is not really an issue, as my concern is building something that is scalable for the future.
TIA!
Shane
Malcolm Stewart Member # 5744
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Shane,
I'm about where you are--I started reading and browsing in November and started digging in July. Fishpond and 11'2" suspension bridge have taken all effort so far and no trackwork is done except for using small Ditch Witch to excavate 4" trench where roadbed will go.
Here's what I think/know:
1. You needn't get shorter rail. As you lay it, there will be natural places where you'll have to cut a full length--et voila, you've got a short end for when you subsequently need it. (Is your rail bender a dual track--fits on the track as it's in the roadbed and keeps the two rails in gauge.)
2. Advice I've garnered is that the track bus should be two separate insulated 10AWG wires (apparently, DC voltage drops in a long run, hence the big gauge). Each section of rail should be connected to the bus by insulated 18AWG wires, connected by boring a hole thru the rail web, pushing a stripped stub of the leader thru the hole from the inside of the rail web, and bending and soldering it to the outside of the web. (This technique eliminates the otherwise inevitable loss of connectivity when rail end joiners slip or become corroded.)
3. The reason for my trench is that I plan to use it as a chase for the cables and wires needed. I'll put a couple inches of fine gravel in the bottom (and tamp it to provide a solid base). Then, to get 110VAC to the boosters and associated power supplies that I'll need (my roadway will end up being 1,000' or more long), I'll lay a 2-wire w/gnd 12AWG UF cable. (Since this is under the roadbed where nobody will be trenching or digging, I think it's OK to violate code in this case (I believe code requires 110 and higher voltages to be buried 18". What I do when the cable branches from under the roadbed is shield it with a PVC conduit for protection from an inadvertant shovel stroke.) Next, the rail bus wires go in the trench--approximately under their respective rail (the convention is that the right wire has black insulation and the left wire has red). To join a leader to a bus wire, strip the bus about 3/4" at the spot desired and strip the end of the leader about 1-1/4". Wrap the leader end tightly around the bus and solder. There's a liquid insulation that I've read about that I plan to use to close up the splice. (One of the reasons for putting the bus wires under their respective rails is to keep them separated in case a joint is not fully insulated.)
4. You mentioned future growth. If you're tempted (as I am) to think about computer controlled operations "someday", then (if you're using Digitrax, or other sophisticated control system), I think a 6-wire cable (akin to today's telephone cord) has to be used to connect all accessories (turnout switch, etc.)and substations ("boosters") back to the master station. The good news it that these can be daisy chained. I have written Digitrax for an explanation of this requirement. If they ever give me an answer, i'll forward it to you if you'll send me your email address.
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