I have just aquired a beautiful Proto 2000 USRA 0-8-0 switcher which runs (and looks) great. However, it will not run over my Kadee delayed action uncouplers. When it reaches them, it will stop, and not move unless I push it along. Giving it more juice only causes the wheels to slip. There is no physical contact with the uncoupler. There seems to be lots of metal in this model, so is it possible that the magnetic field is strong enough to stop and hold the locomotive?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Woodguy
Posted by Roger Hensley (Member # 1374) on :
No, the Kadee uncoupler does not have that kind of strength. You have some other problem at that point. I use Kadee uncoupling ramps and the only problems that I have ever seen has been when the ramp was too high and the bottom of a locos trucks (which was also too low) actually dragged on it railing the wheels off of the track. The other case has been when I didn't set the Kaddee 'glad hand' with the Kadee Gauge and the coupler dragged.
Look for a dip or bump in the track at that point. A dip is most likely.
What happens when you remove or relocate the un-coupler?
Posted by Russ Bellinis (Member # 2377) on :
I had a problem with some grade crossings on our modular club's layout with a Bachmann 2-8-0 high centering at a couple of grade crossings. This was the old Bachmann plus model, not the new Spectrum Baldwin. I found the problem to be that the grade crossing was just a touch high, and the locomotives gearbox housing hangs low. I would look for something hanging low, and like a previous poster said look closely at your trip pin. I like to put a little curve up in the end of my Kaddee's trip pins so that if they hit something that is too high, they will tend to ride up and over rather than digging in.
Posted by woodguy (Member # 2319) on :
Thanks for the help, however I found the problem after a much closer inspection - boy, is my face red! The uncouplers are approximately 3/64" above the rail, not the required 1/32", also there are 8 small projections (1 behind each driver) which are very close to rail height at the best of times. I'm not quite sure what these projections are, but I guess there is a good reason for their existence. Unfortunately because of them, I now have to uproot all my uncouplers, cut out the ties, and set them back in at the proper height. The more expensive below-the-surface electromagnet type uncouplers are looking pretty good about now.
Woodguy
Posted by Russ Bellinis (Member # 2377) on :
If you want to use the inexpensive magnet ramps but hide them, you can cut out the center of your road bed, and sink the ramps so that the top of the magnet is even with the top of your road bed. Put a thin piece of styrene over the ramp and put the track over it and ballast it. The uncoupling ramps will work, but be completely hidden.