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I wanted to report on my quick little loop journey to Hartford. It began with a southbound early morning Empire Service to New York City. These morning trains that start in Albany have good service, and I arrived in NY's Penn Station (NYP) maybe 5 minutes late. It's a lovely ride sitting on the right, where you ride along the Hudson; I've done it many times.
Arriving in NYP, I decided to use my Amtrak Select free pass to leave luggage in the ACELA lounge and upgrade to business class on the Vermonter. With over 2 hours before the Vermonter left, I went for a nice walk to Madison Square, stopping in this gourmet supermarket on W 23rd for these great Tate chocolate chip cookies for my travels. At Madison Square I heard the "sound sculpture" (mainly bell chimes) at 10AM there and looked around at some favorite buildings on the east side of the square. Returning to Penn Station on Broadway, I stopped in one of the few wholesale jewelry stores that allow some retail sales and picked up some bargain costume jewelry for stocking stuffer-type gifts.
The Vermonter had a nice little business class section with very comfortable chairs. I took one in a double seat on the right side (the other side were singles) but then went into the lounge to see the departure from NYC on the left. The views crossing Hellgate were neat, and returning to my seat, I enjoyed the occasionally lovely glimpses of the sound as we road further into Connecticut. At New Haven there was some time between trains, so I watched the new engine being linked up--pretty neat, and some rather brave workers, if you ask me--I wouldn't stand right there with the engine coming at me! The trip resumed to Hartford, not such interesting terrain on this part, but we got in right on time.
The hotel I chose, a Holiday Inn, was perfectly located just a block from the restored train station, across Bushnell Park from the state capitol, which I would see and tour the following morning. I was able to check in as an early arrival, so I dumped my stuff in the room, briefly freshened up, and headed for the famous Wadsworth Athenaeum. The weather was fine, and walking briskly, I reached the museum about 2:45--I was glad the train hadn't been late, since I wanted to give myself at least 2 hours to see it. I think I saw pretty much everything, though I didn't read many of the descriptions, of course. It's a lovely little museum, and I believe the oldest art museum in America.
Returning to my hotel, I relaxed before meeting friends for dinner. We ate right near the hotel at a place called Black Eyed Sallys, with blues, ribs, Cajun food--a pleasant place, though the pulled pork I had was definitely what I'd call "northern."
The next morning I rose early, had a decent continental breakfast at the hotel, and headed toward the capitol. I walked under the attractive memorail arch to the capitol and looked around at the outdoor statuary, since I knew the tours wouldn't start till 9:15 (in the modern state legislative building nearby). I crossed the street by the state museum and looked around an attractive side street, went down by the state armory, went to the state legislative building gift shop, etc etc. At 9:15 I returned to the desk where the tours start. The tour was great, with an excellent guide, and I had it all to myself (they get busier later). Afterwards I made a quick stop at the state museum, with some neat stuff (including the famous Charter Oak and a Colt room with lots of interesting old weapons etc). I then returned to my hotel to check out, leaving luggage with the front desk, and walked over to the Old State House and Statehouse Square. The interior here was pleasant colonial but not too much to see, only a Gilbert Stuart painting of Washington and a museum of curiosities upstairs that included a 2-headed calf (stuffed) and a 2-headed pig (preserved in fluid). I was glad I'd had the pulled pork the night before!
For lunch I stopped in an excellent place called Tapas, though it served few tapas but mostly tasty Greek food--I had really fine chicken shish kebab. I then walked up to the Mark Twain House, crossing under the train, over the highway, and passing two interesting, attractive old insurance company buildings (Hartford Insurance, now with another name, and AETNA, now apparently ING). At Twain's house I took the main tour and kitchen tour there (I was glad I took the latter because it was only $3 more, and the guide was much better), saw the museum areas and the film, and in between had time to bop across the way to the Harriet Beecher Stowe house and tour that too (excellent tour, makes you appreciate HBS much more than you might have before--including her paintings!).
I then walked back down to the hotel, got my luggage, and waiting in the lobby for my cousin, with whom I was spending the night (I could have the night before too but didn't want to lose precious tourist time getting shuttled back and forth). We had a fantastic dinner at the Shish Kebob House of Afghanistan in West Hartford.
I won't bore you with other family details but move to the return trip, the train highlight of the journey. I left on a short train from Hartford to Springfield--2 cars plus engine. The ride up to Springfield was attractive, sitting on the right--Connecticut River, Windsor Locks. Rivers and swamp areas were swollen with water from the recent flooding--a problem in our basements but attractive for train riding sights! And April is a great time to travel (if you don't hit the rain), before the trees leaf in and block the water views. We arrived in Springfield on time, and though the station is not attractive--looks like a Greyhound bus terminal--it was perfectly safe and had several people already, with more coming in. True, there is no food other than a little machine, but I brought a banana, a bottle of water, and those Tate cookies--an excellent lunch. Since I had luggage and have already been to Springfield, I waited there the 2 hours or so for the Boston branch of the westbound Lakeshore Ltd. It arrived just about on time, and I opted for a seat on the left, having been told there were more water views. And there were--quite gorgeous Connecticut and esp a stretch along Westfield River. I was able to go into the lounge and see some from the right too. I enjoyed the climb to Washington past other small towns, so helpfully described to me in posts here. The train made a nice wide circle and made the Berkshires seem more like mountains than they usually do when driving through. I saw the Entering New York State sign on the left and went through the State Line Tunnel and another small nice town before coming to Chatham, where I saw the old train station. WE then turned up again toward Albany, getting in about 30-40 minutes late, not bad at all, and a truly lovely ride.
Anyone interested in making this jaunt: Do it only in this direction, you do not want to take the Boston branch of the Lakeshore Ltd eastbound out of Albany because it can be notoriously late getting there from Chicago. If you are then going back south from Albany, you could catch the Maple Leaf 7:15 (but often late) or on Sundays the 6:15 southbound; or you might consider a stopover in Albany too to visit another state capitol (and the state museum and perhaps Ten Broek House or something). Note tours of capitols are free but in Hartford and many others are open only on weekdays. (Hartford's last tour was 1:15, which is why, taking the Vermonter, I had to stay overnight--but there were other things & people I wanted to see too.)
The only bad part of the trip: While on the Vermonter, I heard that train is being de-Amtrakked or something like that. The state of Vermont is taking it over, I think doing away with the business class and the snack bar, and I'm uncertain what connections will be like. However, whatever they are doing has been delayed somewhat . . Does anyone know details about this?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Regarding the Vermonter,It has to do with the state buying the self propelled DMU (?) cars. Amtrak has been selling the state for years on the idea of saving so much money by operating the train themselves. Amtrak was proposing that the state buy some dedicated equipment from Amtrak and operate/maintain it themselves, of couse their price was exorbitant and so the state didn't agree to it but has been agressively looking for alternative ideas.
Now, I thought they were looking at using this additional equipment to possibly supplement the Vermonter run, but IMO they will never get the ridership to support 2 trains at least North of WRJ.
Time will tell how this all plays out...
Posts: 332 | From: Long Island, NY USA | Registered: Jan 2004
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I'm pleased to learn that the area in Hartford around the Bushnell Auditorium is again "habitable'.
During my secondary school years of the 50's, I can recall attending concerts (visiting "world class' orchestras) at that venue. Its interior is an art-deco masterpiece approaching that of Radio City Music Hall.
However, I had learned the area had become "animal kingdom'; glad to find out it is apparently no longer such.
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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I think the conversion of the Vermonter to DMU's is still in the rumor mill class. It will likely stay there.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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Glad you enjoyed the scenery through the Berkshire Hills and into eastern New York. It is true that you get to see a lot more on eastern U.S. routes when the leaves haven't come out yet.
The eastbound Lakeshore Limited is notoriously late, as you have said. I have come eastbound about 36 times over the years. ONCE we arrived in Worcester exactly on time!. Unfortunately no one was picking us up that time, so we couldn't say "See, sometimes it's on time!".
On another occasion it was 12 hours late! Listening to my scanner as we approached Worcester I heard the engineer say to the conductor "Well, we're just about back on schedule again". True, except it was AM, not PM!
I've been checking arrival times over the last two weeks. With the new schedule of leaving Chicago three hours later, it seems to be keeping better time, arriving in Worcester even a little early on one occasion. Also, problems on the westbound seem to have been alleviated. No one would have missed a connection to a western train in Chicago over that two week period.
My wife began a 6-month program of chemotherapy today, so we will not be traveling far from home for a while. Maybe a train trip in the late fall or winter.
Posts: 127 | From: Worcester, Massachusetts | Registered: Jan 2007
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I have been checking the Chicago arrivals of the Capitol Ltd, in anticipation of my upcoming trip west on that train. It made all the Chicago connections this week too, though in some cases, just barely, with arrivals after 1PM. I will keep my fingers crossed. Frankly, I not only want it to arrive before my Empire Buildr leaves--I want time for a walk down to the lake. I like the stretch my legs between trains!
I do wish your wife well on the chemo, Bob. And just think, in late fall, when you can travel again, the leaves will be off the trees once more!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Glad that you enjoyed this trip which included Hartford (my backyard).
I must congratulate you!! In one day you have seen more of what Hartford has to offer than many who have lived here most of, or all of, their lives.
The Wadsworth Museum is truly a treasure and if you are ever in the area pre-Christmas there is a wonderful display of all kinds of decorated Christmas trees. Constitution Plaza (Old State House area)is also decorated with "zillions" of light displays during the holiday season. (If you are ever in New Haven with time to spare do take in the British Art Museum there - it is another CT museum treasure).
I have toured the Mark Twain House many times (former scout leader here)and always discover something new on each time through.
The LSL ride from Springfield to Albany is lovely whatever the time of year. I especially enjoy it during foliage season -- with early Spring running a close second.
Dee
Posts: 460 | From: North Central CT | Registered: May 2004
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Thanks, Dee. I visited the British museum at Yale years ago but would love to go back. I also recall being very impressed by the Beineke Rare Book Library. Another Connecticut treasure for me is Mystic, which I went to in the late 1970s--before the famous movie, so I never had any pizza!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Ms Sojourner --- hmmmmmm, please enlighten me! What "famous movie" was about Mystic, and what is the significance of the pizza? Sorry I am so naive!.........
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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There are several subplot storylines, but the one that launched Julia Roberts' career was that of 'townie does nicely without rich boy".
Authentic on location scenes of Eastern Connecticut - including about three seconds of an Amtrak train.
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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It's a good movie, RRRich, althugh my favorite performance in it was Lili Taylor's (I think that's her name), not Julia Roberts'. Also memorable for me were the actresses playing the woman who owned the pizza shop and Julia Roberts' mother. But the whole movie was pretty good; I recommend it. Nothing to do with trains (other than Mystic being a train stop) but there's a very good fish scene!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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About the rumored switch of the Vermonter to DMUs: there is an article about this in the latest issue of Trains.
This makes me a bit sad as one of my fuzzy childhood memories involves a family trip from Philadelphia to Montpelier via the old Montrealer (about 1950) that came all the way from DC. Pullman berths were fun. The return trip required a midnight boarding in Montpelier and I can still see and hear the big steam engine ahrieking out of the dark.
Anyone remember - where did they change from steam to other power on the southbound trip?
Jack
-------------------- Jack Posts: 13 | From: Anaheim, CA Orange | Registered: Feb 2004
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