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I'm already starting to foam and I dont leave until Feb 4. Eugene to Portland and then the Empire Builder to Chicago and Lake Shore Limited to Boston. I'll let you know if I get to stay in my sleeper in Albany. I booked the Boston Plaza for 4 nights and got a great deal on Hotwire. I watched a Diners Drive-Ins and Dives that featured Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago and found out it was easy to get there on CTA---That is if the EB in running close to on time.
On the way back I wanted to go through New York City just to see Penn Station. I'm riding down on the 171 REgional and will have a 4 hours lay over. I was wondering if I will be able to store my bags in the Acela Lounge while I take a walk up to Times Square? Another reason for going to NYC is to be able to take the Lake Shore up the Hudson River. I'm looking forward to that. I have my fingers crossed that there won't be any freeze outs on this trip. Also looking forward to breakfast at Lou Mitchell on the return to Chicago.
It has been a slow train year for me with only one trip (WAS-NOL-LAX) this year. I came back from Tampa last November and every train ran on time. This October on the Crescent and Sunset I enjoyed on time performance once again. I hope my streak keeps up.
Posts: 139 | From: myrtle creek oregon | Registered: Jul 2006
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Sounds like a great trip--hope the weather cooperates fully!
Two tips on your eastbound trip: (1) There is a nice view of downtown Albany (including the old D&H building) just before you cross the Hudson on the right side facing forward; you can also see it from Albany station if you have time to go upstairs before boarding the Boston shuttle (but eastbound, you likely won't). (2) The LSL can be quite late eastbound and gets in late even on schedule, so be sure you get off at Boston South (last stop--the main station) regardless of where your hotel is located. You should have no trouble getting a taxi there.
To answer your main question: If you are traveling in a sleeper that day on the Lakeshore Ltd, you can store your bags for free in the ACELA lounge in Penn Station. You can also use the ACELA lounge in Boston South Station that morning, even though you are not catching your sleeper till NYC, as long as it's a sleeper on the same day--that is, if you have time to use the ACELA lounge before boarding in Boston South. There will be free coffee etc in either lounge. If you approach a Red Cap in Boston South (near the ACELA lounge doors), he will keep your luggage (you'll need to give a tip); the actual ACELA lounge there is up steps so you don't want to schlep your luggage up the steps if you don't have to. The Red Cap will then put you on your train when it's time--ask to sit on the left side facing forward for the best views of the LI Sound etc after Providence (till about New Haven, but a few spots nice later too); then, when you get very near the Bronx, move to the right side (or go into the lounge to sit on the right) for the best view of the approach, culminating with the Hell Gate Bridge crossing; if you are in the lounge, you can continue there through Queens and you will see Amtrak's Sunnyside Yards (Amtrak trains along with a lot of LIRR trains around here) as you near the tunnel to Manhattan; also a view of the Empire State. As soon as you get into the tunnel, go back to your seat if you aren't there to get ready to detrain.
The ACELA lounge in Penn Station is to the left of the Amtrak ticket windows (which are 2 levels up from the platforms, though still l level below street level, btw; take an escalator or one or two elevators, with luggage). If you do not have a sleeper, you can store your bags in Penn Station for $4.50 a bag in the baggage storage area not too far from the ACELA lounge (kind of around the corner from it; you'll see it). If you don't have a sleeper, be sure to sit on the left side facing forward out of Penn Station for the river view to Albany (which begins as soon as you leave the tunnels that take you away from Penn Station). If you do have a sleeper, and it happens to be on the RIGHT side facing forward, you might ask your cabin attendant if it's OK to sit in an empty sleeper on the other side til Albany--promise you won't make dirt and tell him you came all the way from Boston and are leaving from NYC just to see the river, and likely he'll let you. If not--maybe there won't be any empty sleepers (though I doubt it, in February, you never know) you could go sit in the lounge (remember, it's not a big one on the LSL; no observation car like the Empire Builder) or perhaps even in coach for the view.
If I have a chance, I will post another post here to tell you a nice little walk you can take, to see a lot more than Times Sq (not my favorite place in NYC, famous though it be) in 4 hours, weather permitting, including Grand Central Station. . . . Meanwhile, I presume you are taking the 8:20AM Regional out of Boston to arrive in NYC 12:15? You might consider splurging on the 7:15AM ACELA if (a) it's not too early for you and (b) you want to ride an ACELA--I think it would cost you only about $50 more if you booked it right now . . . longer you wait, higher it would be. . . . I would not take any other ACELA, it would get you into NYC too late to see anything. . . .
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Thank you so much Sojourner for the info. I am looking forward to a post on a walk in NYC. Yes I am on the 8:20A Regional that morning. I booked sleepers all the way.
Posts: 139 | From: myrtle creek oregon | Registered: Jul 2006
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Great, Wayne. Here is the walk, weather permitting. I had to fix a few typos so I added a few more details, and I have now finished it.
After leaving your luggage in the ACELA lounge at Penn Station, go out the door and take a right. You sort of have to walk a bit around the main waiting area, but after you do, continue walking down the middle of the station in the same direction (past Krispy Kreme, Tiecoon on your left) through a big rotunda, continue, continue, continue past ZAROs bakery, and you will come to the escalator up to 7th Avenue. Take that up. Note it's very crowded here! BTW, you have been under Madison Square Garden the whole time, and when you get to the top of the escalator, you will be under the big signed marquis entrance to it--but it's very modern, not the original Madison Square Garden (or Penn Station), alas. . . . Anyway, when you get to the top of the escalator, take a left and walk up 7th Avenue. Look up and to your right, you will see a nice view of the Empire State Building just 1 block away.
After you cross West 33rd St, go one more block (north/uptown) to W 34th St, crossing over the street before taking a right onto it. At the NE corner there, and running down W 34th St for one long avenue block, is Macy's flagship store. You can walk along it on W 34th and look at the windows, though they are nicer at Christmas time.
Continue along Macy's to the next avenue, which is Broadway; actually, this is where Broadway (which runs at an angle) crosses 6th Avenue (also called "Avenue of the Americas"), and between West 34th and W 35th those two nearly conjoined avenues along with the little bits of side streets form a little "square" (really more of a triangle) which in fact is Herald Square, of song fame. The Herald Tribune was published here, whence the name. There is also a clock. On the OTHER [downtown] side of W 34th (not where you are going), Broadway and 6th Avenue form another little "square" that is called Greeley Square, the newspaperman who bid Americans to "Go West, young man."
You, however, should not go west but north (well the angle is a little west too), walking up Broadway from Herald Square, crossing the streets W 36th, 37th, 38th, etc., until you get to W 42nd. This is where Broadway begins to cross 7th Avenue and where another little "square" is formed, Times Square (named for another newspaper, which published here).
Continue walking a little more up Broadway; if you look back at 42nd you will see the flat surface where the ball or whatever it is now falls down on New Year's Eve. Then a left (well, if you are facing the flat surface back at 42nd I suppose it will be right--anyway, go west) on West 44th St. On the south (downtown) side of the street, you will see the famous Sardis restaurant here (now mainly an overpriced tourist trap) and across West 44th, that is, on the north side, you will see the Shubert Theater (I think it's still called that, but who knows who bought what any more?) and a little promenade adjoining it, called Shubert Alley; go through that--you are in the heart of the Theater District. When you get through Shubert Alley you will be on West 45th St. Take a right and go back to Broadway, then take a left on either Broadway or still conjoining 7th Avenue (whichever is more convenient) and continue 1 more block north to West 46th Street, and take a right. You are now leaving the Theater District, heading east on a street often called Little Brazil because there are so many Brazilian restaurants here. However, you will not see them all because you need to take a left on 6th Avenue (Avenue of the Americas). Continue four short blocks north to West 50th Street; on the NW corner is the Time Life Building and on the NE corner is Radio City Music Hall, of some fame. Take a right and go east on West 50th. About halfway down the street, on the right side of West 50th, you will see a large space with flags etc.; that is Rockefeller Center. Often mobbed with tourists, especially when the Christmas tree is up, but in February, you should be fine. Go into that space; look down at the lower level, you should see ice skating or at the very least a Zamboni (sp?). Go about half way around the open space & look back; NBC is in the RCA Building here (above the big statue); you may recognize it all from the Today show.
Turn with the RCA Building and skating area behind you and go down the lane between buildings (there are some extravagant shops), heading east toward the next cross street, which is Fifth Avenue. When you get there, you will see St Patricks Cathedral and Sax (sp?) Fifth Avenue both across 5th Avenue here. You can go into the Cathedral if you like; it is not NYC's prettiest church but it isn't bad.
If you had a lot of time, you could walk up 5th Avenue all the way to Central Park (entrance on NW corner of 59th Street); there are lots of famous shops, Tiffanys, Cartiers, etc, on the way, and then after briefly going in to the park, go east on 59th St 2 avenue and come back down Park Av. But as you undoubtedly don't have the time for that, I'd just continue (from the St Patricks/Sax area, I mean) east on East 49th Street (btw, the street names change from WEST 49th, WEST 48th, etc, to EAST 49th, EAST 48th, etc, after you cross 5th Avenue), crossing the next avenue, which is Madison Avenue, and continuing east on East 49th one more avenue, which is Park Avenue. You will see the Waldorf Astoria Hotel between E 49th & 50th on the east side of the street and 1 block above it St Bartholomew's Church (quite lovely) but you won't go up to that, no time. . . you need to take a RIGHT and go downtown (south) on Park Avenue. You will be looking smack dab at what was (at W 47th St) the New York Central Building (later the slimy Helmsley Building, and something else now, I forget) with the ugly modern PanAm Building disgracing its air space (now possibly called the Metropolitan Life Building) behind it . . . Anyway, you will see cars entering and exiting the New York Central Building on either side of Park Avenue (it's a wide street, with an island, and the trains are under your feet, and buildings like the Waldorf Astoria and St Barts are raised up on a step, sort of, to accommodate it all). Continue down Park Avenue and take that pedestrian walk through the New York Central Building (no one calls it that any more, I think they might still call it the Helmsley Building). Anyway, you will come out of that walkway on West 45th I believe. Take a right on that street and go a short distance west to Vanderbilt Avenue, and then take a left. (Vanderbilt is a little avenue that runs from 42nd to 47th St only.)
As you walk south down Vanderbilt, you will cross East 45th, East 44th if you are on the west side of the street, but on your left the streets don't go through because that is Grand Central Terminal. Go in at the entrance (it's around the foot of East 44th, and there's an overhang where taxis pull up, or used to). This is the Vanderbilt Avenue entrance, quite lovely as you come in, with impressive steps leading down into the main part of the station, with the clock. Be sure to look at the ceiling. You can go to the little train museum-cum-shop or whatever it's called (kind of under the Vanderbilt steps); to the whispering place at the vaulted ceiling in front of the Oyster Bar (ask in the information booth or ask the maitre' d at the Oyster Bar about it; you need to have someone whisper with you, cattycorner against the arched wall.
[OK, I'm finished up . . . note I corrected some bad typos above, including one street number!]
You can eat at the counter in the Oyster bar but it's overpriced & the only good food there as far as I have found are the chowders. Instead, if it's off hours and not so crowded, you can eat at the food court; it's a large expanse on the lower level (and you'll see some of the old benches here as well as tables where you can take food--but if it's really crowded, I'd skip the food). I recommend the pulled pork wrap (don't get it on a roll, it's smaller and won't have cole slaw) with a side of yams & sweet tea at Brother Jimmy's. You can also go upstairs and walk through the large and somewhat interesting (though it's no Pikes Market!) Grand Central Market and get some pastries or something.
Anyway, go back up to the main waiting area clock and pass through what I think was once the Ladies' Waiting area (there's likely to be a mini-auto show or flea market here!) & leave Grand Central Terminal onto E 42nd Street. You will see a little overpass over the street. Cross to the other side of E 42nd--there is a little Frenchy restaurant under the underpass (this little bit of land here is called Pershing Square!) & a light for crossing. Go east a tiny bit on E 42nd and stop to turn back to look at the 42nd Street facade of Grand Central. On the Vanderbilt Av corner you will see an eagle; that's a remnant of the original Grand Central Depot, knocked down (in the 1890s I think?) to build this building. Above it on the corner facing 42nd St you'll see a flat area with an old Dutch scene--that's the Vanderbilt family faux coat of arms (they were incredibly phony trying to be aristos you know, the "Commodore" got his start running the Staten Island ferry). In the center of the 42nd St facade you can see his statue, look up by the upper level (ehere the cars coming out of the NY Central Building you walked thru & going around Grand Central here before they go over that overpass and then down under Park Av South) & you can see the Commodore's Statue. Above it, the famous clock--which btw is actually a LOT bigger than it looks from street level. Look down the whole facade of Grand Central here, it stretches to Lexington Av in the east--and then look up across the street, that is the Chrysler Building (now owned by the government of Dubai or some such!). You cannot see it, but if you look right (east) on 42nd a bit down a ways is the Daily News Building (with the globe, you saw it in Superman) and further still is the United Nations (down near 1st Avenue). But don't go there (no time!), instead go WEST on E 42nd, & make a veru quick stop in the lobby #60 E 42nd the Lincoln Building; ask the guard to let you see the mini-statue of Lincoln. This is the original model for the one in DC.
When you get to the next avenue after that, Madison Avenue, take a left. Go south (downtown) one block to E 41st and take a right. You will see the facade of the main branch of the NY Public Library facing you. Look down on the sidewalk as you walk; this is a fairly new thing, Library Row or some such, with cool quotations, mostly about books, in the sidewalk of E 41st--my favorite is the Mark Twain one.
When you come to the next avenue, Fifth Avenue, cross over to the lions that guard of the library (famous from Ghostbusters) and if you have time, go in and see the gorgeous main reading room or periodical room and or small special exhibit if it is of interest--it's all free, but you will need to check thru the metal detector of course! If not, just walk around the library to the back; that is Bryant Park, and there is more ice skating here, plus excellent (last time I was there) new public toilets!
Anyway, when you are done, walk south on 5th Avenue; you will pass Lord & Taylor on your right, among other things. After you cross 34th St, that is the Empire State Building. You won't have time to go in (it take forever) but can walk along it, taking a right (the Empire State stretches from W 34th to W 33rd & from 5th to 6th Ave aka Ave of the Americas) and going west back down 34th to 7th Avenue, where you take a left & go south back a few short blocks to the entrance to Penn Station (under the Madison Square Garden marquis) from which you came out. Go back down the escalator and back to the Amtrak area/ACELA lounge.
(Whew, I will proofread this again another day . . . )
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I forgot to mention this. Isn't there an elevator to the ACELA lounge at South Station? I remember pushing the button and it didn't come so I dragged my rollaboard up the stairs. The less than helpful staff said "You need to call us for the elevator". I seem to recall they took us down in the elevator, though, when it was time to boad.
Anybody else have any info on this?
Frank in cool but sunny SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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There is an elevator, but you cannot access it on your own, or at least you could not when I was there. One of the red caps has to let you into it and turn a key to operate it. Same in Philly. But in Philly you can store your luggage up there in the ACELA lounge once you are up there. It seems in Boston (at least when I was there) the red caps like to take your baggage and put it in a room someplace downstairs. Anyway, they are very nice and accommodating. The ACELA lounges in both places are quite nice too--nicer (and quieter) than NYC and the Chicago Metropolitan Lounge, I'd say, though not quite as nice as Washington DC, perhaps.
BTW, I'd advise waiting a little if you can, Frank. February is really not the most reliable month to visit NYC or Boston, weatherwise, if you want to walk around. It can be nice, but it can snow or be icy, you just never know. . . However, if despite living in sunny SBA you own proper snow footwear, it might be OK!!! And, of course, the snow does melt pretty quickly in big cities (even Las Vegas, or so I heard today).
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Actually, I was thinking of taking the trip I had to cancel two years ago on the Zephyr to Denver and then fly back. Southwest is now offering $65.00 ow from Denver to LAX through February.
Thanks for the headsup on accessing the clubs in Boston and Philadelphia. the Boston Club was very nice and had two free computers to use. When I was at DC both computers were down.
Frank in cool and dark SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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Thank you very much Sojourner. I will print out the post and use it as a guide. I love winter train trips and I'm aware of the down side. I lived in Burlington Vermont for 3 years. I just bought a winter jacket with hood and I'm waiting for my LL Bean snow boots just for this trip. I can always use the LL Beans here in Oregon. Living in Oregon will get you familar with rubber clothes.
Posts: 139 | From: myrtle creek oregon | Registered: Jul 2006
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Have a wonderful trip, Wayne. I may visit Eugene overnight on my next trip west, depends on the economy if I make the trip, but I'm thinking of taking the Zephyr out and go back on the EB. The Eugene stopover would mainly be to ensure I don't have to take a bus all the way to eastern ORegon--not that I'm against seeing more of Oregion, I just don't like buses, or to miss the Columbia Gorge! But I've also always wanted to stop in Eugene and see if it's just like in Animal House (actually I know someone who used to teach there and want to stop there for that reason).
I did a long winter trip last January (here to FL via NYC, then after some days, FL to Arizona via DC & Chicago & SW Chief, with ground transport in AZ (inc saw a friend) and home on the Sunset Ltd from Tucson to San Antonio with stopover there, then TX Eagle with stopover in Austin, then home via Chicago and the LSL. It was great, and I had little trouble. DC was pretty nice for January--I walked all the way to the WWII memorial & back between trains. My Cap Ltd was earlier into Chicago than ever, and I had time to take an architecture walking tour there (we were stomping our feet a little but it wasn't snowy). The coldest temperature I encountered was when I arrived in Flagstaff, it was 22 F (it's colder than that here today!) There was some snow on the ground for my homebound Chicago layover but I still managed to meet a friend in Greektown for dinner (my train was only about an hour late). And knock wood none of my trains were very late!!! I'm hoping for the same in my upcoming FL trip. I plan to stop in SC and Richmond this time on the way back.
Don't forget to post on the results of your travels, Wayne!!!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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After the cruise,that you missed, I am also looking at doing the new USA Rail Pass and doing something like a Bos-Chi-Pdx-Lax-Emy-Chi-Nol. Maybe we could meet alone the way.
Posts: 5 | From: Spring Texas | Registered: Dec 2007
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Sojourner I fully understand your trip choices. You will love Eugene and the ride on the Amtrak Cascades is a treat I give myself often. I do enjoy the Talgo equipment, and you are correct not wanting to miss the trip up the Columbia. It is a much better trip in April when the days are longer. Thanks again and I will give a trip report.
Posts: 139 | From: myrtle creek oregon | Registered: Jul 2006
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Oh, Wayne, I just noticed, I told you to turn around and look at where the ball falls down on Times Square, but then I told you to turn left--I now fixed it all with a parenthetic above. What I meant was, as you are going north, turn left (not as you are turned around looking at where the ball falls down!)--in other words, turn west, heading toward 8th Ave--to get to Sardis & Shubert Alley. Cheers!
And where I said Grenchy, that was Frenchy!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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