posted
No. 5, the California Zephyr left Chicago at precisely 2:00 pm. The old Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy RR aka the ‘Burlington’, would have been proud of BNSF/Amtrak performance throughout. Denver arrival was about 30” early, but then I’m getting ahead of myself.
It was good to be traveling this route as there were portions new to me. All earlier trips were prior to Amtrak. This included a fast trip on the immaculate and very speedy Denver Zephyr and a date with my ‘wife to be’ on the CZ from Denver to Bond, CO and return on the Yampa Valley Mail. She has been a good sport about my strange travel preferences for the past 40 years and professes to actually enjoy them. We also had a trip planned on Amtrak’s CZ from Reno to Emeryville but thanks to a derailment, it resulted in a boring bus ride over the mountains.
Our attendant was the efficient and capable Robert. While lacking the knowledge and personality of Lou on the Capitol, he did a good job with a car that included a travel group of 30 that had an average age of 70 (according to one of its members) – but then that’s not so old is it? There was another passenger who was not mobile at all and on oxygen in the handicap room. The group was exhausted after returning from a trip starting in LA that included the SW Chief to KC, bus to Branson and Chicago and return on the CZ. The tour director was under assault because she did not anticipate a marathon in Chicago that, due to resulting traffic jams, canceled all their plans there. Consequently meal conversations with this group were not very scintillating. I don’t think an escorted tour will ever be in our travel plans. Besides, half the fun is planning a trip.
For the first time we were booked in a Family Room, in car 531, fittingly named 'California' and next to 'Colorado'. It was in better condition than the prior two sleepers on this trip and again no malfunctions (except for a briefly spastic toilet near Moffett tunnel). Our verdict was a score of 8 out of 10. We loved having windows on both sides of the room and were frequently rushing to the opposite window for a good camera shot of the scenery or look at a station or another train. While the windows are small we could see all we needed to. The room, because of its width and two windows seemed very big and bright. We also liked the privacy of being at the end of a dead end. It was also nice to be able to make a quick exit at station stops and have our luggage handy in the nearby storage area. The negatives were the bathroom was down the hall, although the quality of the communal shower was much better than in a bedroom. While most of the time the noise level was fine, there were occasions when a rough switch at 79mph seemed to be magnified as we received a quick jolt. But, since this was our third night on the train, it did little to disturb our sleep. Exhaustion is a good cure for sleeplessness.
We bounded up at 6:00 am MST (thank goodness for time changes) in order to eat breakfast before Denver arrival. After a rainy Chicago it was good to see that deep blue Colorado sky and fresh snow on the mountain peaks. As soon as we arrived, we were off the train to explore the classic Denver station (love its ‘Travel by Train’ sign), and stretch our legs. Too bad Amtrak is being kicked out for 3 ½ years while a developer obliterates the current platform area with yet another trendy building.
The air was crisp and cool as we hurried back to the sightseer lounge car before the general boarding began. We were able to grab a couple good seats on the right side of the train before we began that one of a kind spectacular crawl up the east side of the front range. Sitting there with camera and fresh cup of coffee, we certainly agreed with that adage, ‘life is good’.
Returning to our room, we enjoyed a relaxing day seeing the Gore and Glenwood canyons before arriving in Grand Junction, CO 20” early at 3:50 pm. The CZ may be Amtrak's only 'R'rated train (perhaps the Starlight also qualifies). Throughout the passage of the Gore canyon, non stop river runners in all manner of craft made us seem only a few steps from 'Deliverance'. A good portion of those felt compelled to show us various parts of their anatomy. It made for good entertainment and we thought that stretch of track was probably the second most scenic on the route.
After Grand Junction arrival the fun began. In all fairness, we knew this was going to happen as the UP had a continuing tie replacement program near Green River, UT that required the CZ to be held in Grand Junction until 6:30 pm. This was 2’20” past its scheduled time on the prior schedule, but Emeryville arrival on the new temporary schedule was only 1’20” later at 6:30 pm – thanks, no doubt, to some schedule padding. Trust me, that’s more than enough time to see the arid and rather desperate downtown area of Grand Junction. But my wife made progress on her latest quilt project and I caught up on my email and this log.
Dinner the first night was quite good as we both liked the pork tenderloin and I couldn’t resist the apple crisp (and borrowed some –actually all - of my wife’s hagan–daz ice cream). So much for eating healthy. At breakfast the eggs and grits were good and the old reliable Angus Burger was a decent lunch. Dinner the second night was the best yet as we both like the braised flat iron steak (pot roast). It was certainly helped by a half bottle of wine.
Our server was new to the job and was very slow but trying hard (including ignoring a broken finger). Another server was just going through the motions. The LSA was very efficient and trying very hard to be polite, but she had a few rough edges Apparently she decided her role was to manage the operation and handled checks and drinks, much like the stewards years ago, except without the same amount of waiters. We later learned that when the passenger load made a seasonal decline, one of the servers would be removed and the LSA would pick up the slack.
During our trip, she did very efficiently wait on one table where she ‘squeezed us in’ after some mild fussing about the reservation process. Advising all onboard the time of the next “feeding” on the PA didn’t do much to for anyone’s appetite and taking dinner reservations while most were off the train in Grand Junction had many incredulous. Amtrak’s dinner reservation process was a disaster. It seemed that all three trains did it differently. Amtrak would do well to bring in someone from the cruise lines to help them manage dining service.
As we went to bed the second night, we were treated to an almost ethereal light from the afterglow of the sunset as it played on the dramatic eastern Utah buttes and mesas that was highlighted by a ¾ moon. Shortly, our speed slowed to a crawl and we very gingerly clanked across the portion of track that was being repaired, causing us to lose more time.
Strange things happen at night. We awoke in eastern Nevada to find we had somehow recovered over an hour of lost time.. We enjoyed lazily spending the day on the train with the only major event being the climb from Reno up the Sierra Nevada mountains and past Donner Lake. I recalled hearing the story from a retired railroad executive about his experience as a young trainmaster when the City of San Francisco was stranded there in a snow drift for four days in 1952, I believe. This story and the struggles of the Donner party a century earlier had always given this route a sense of mystery to me. But, somehow the nearby Interstate seemed to make it a bit ordinary, although still very scenic.
As the trip drew to a close the tour group members appeared to be either increasingly agitated or comatose. We were glad when they departed at Sacramento. For the approach to the Bay area, we returned to the lounge car. That was a very enjoyable segment as there were only a few there including a family from New Zealand and a young carpenter from Berkeley who was extremely knowledgeable on a wide range of subjects and, dare I say it, quite articulate.
Pulling into Emeryville I glanced at my watch. It was 5:30 pm. One hour early on the new schedule and only 20” late on the old one, in spite of the delays at Grand Junction and crossing the area of track work. Good job UP. No wonder the final schedule change in October will call for a much earlier arrival. It appears that the track work over the past few years (and the lower freight volumes) are making a difference.
As we left the train, we were directed to the waiting Thruway bus for our trip into San Francisco. It was quite an experience, but for that story and the final leg of our trip you’ll have to wait for a few more days.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
| IP: Logged |
posted
Sounds like you had a relatively pleasant experience, Palmland! Thank you for sharing your report. I'm glad to see the CZ is running more on-time nowadays.
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I am enjoying your report. You write so well I always feel as if I am there with you two.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
after rereading the report I don't understand about the changes in the Denver station. Can you explain?
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by train lady: after rereading the report I don't understand about the changes in the Denver station. Can you explain?
I too would like more information on that. When is the CZ kicked out? Where will it stop instead? Will they have the Denver Union Doublewide like in Salt Lake City?
Denver Union Station is a remaining true gem and one that is certainly underutilized as it is.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
Scanning the internet I found this website - scroll down and read about the 'Master Plan' for DUS.
Sounds like they want to put the Amtrak and light-rail platforms underground so that they can develop the space above the tracks.
If this results in a shorter walk from the waiting room to the train and the possibility of 'through' passenger rail service again (though the CZ would still be backing in), I could be in favor of it.
If it means Amtrak is relegated for 20 years to a doublewide when a lovely, perfectly good train station continues to beckon 200 yards away (eg: Salt Lake City, St. Louis), I would be opposed.
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
the one thing I woulld like to see changed is the seating. Those "pews" are SO uncomfortable
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Thanks for the second part. I am taking the Denver to Martinez trip in another week and a half, and this just makes the anticipation peak! I did note in a different post that the work you mentioned will supposedly be done, as Amtrak called to tell me my arrival would be earlier than scheduled.
Posts: 406 | From: La Grange, CA | Registered: Sep 2007
| IP: Logged |
posted
Thanks for the great trip report! That's good that you had the foresight to snag a seat in the lounge car before the crowds got on in Denver. Also, I'm glad you enjoyed the Family Bedroom, but I suppose I'm in the minority on this one. People have told me that they love having that room or the handicapped room (Room H) because it's the entire width of the train. Personally, I do not care for either room. I prefer a Roomette upstairs so that I can see things better. I also felt like I got a rougher ride down below, and I could hear every twig and pebble that bounced up underneath the car.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hi Smitty. May I join your minority? I feel the same way. Give me the "upstairs" any day
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Train Lady - nice to hear from you. You are with us in spirit and wish we could have pulled off our rendezvous.
David - I think the plans for temp Denver station are to rehab a nearby unused older building. That's certainly preferable to an AmShack. I do worry about the layout for the new underground tracks - will they have capacity for additional trains and will they provide a connection to the south for a train to Colorado Springs and beyond.
Smitty - we'll be able to sample your upstairs roomette on our next leg. Roomettes are fine for one and ok for a quick overnight for 2, beyond that we like a bedroom or family room.
Pullman co- You are so right - there was nothing flimsy about Pullman blankets. They make Amtrak blankets seems like a cheap piece of cotton.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
| IP: Logged |
David - I think the plans for temp Denver station are to rehab a nearby unused older building. That's certainly preferable to an AmShack. I do worry about the layout for the new underground tracks - will they have capacity for additional trains and will they provide a connection to the south for a train to Colorado Springs and beyond.
I'm going to try to look at the schematics in the attachments to that website at work later today.......I tried at home but have only a Netbook there at the moment. (Great for traveling with....impossible to enlarge things for close study).
One of the drawings 'suggests' loops of track underground. Quite likely 'light rail' BUT a heavy rail loop would mean that the CZ could pull through the loop and not have to back in.....kind of like the former 'new' Seaboard station in Richmond, VA.
BUT I can't attest to that until I get a look at bigger pictures.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Nice report. I would rather have a room upstairs too. The ride up there is so much better
Posts: 465 | From: elgin (s-line) | Registered: Dec 2008
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
