posted
You can buy anything online these days and I have gotten some of my best deals from EBay. Don't get me wrong, I patronize all my local hobby and model train shops, but sometimes they just don't have what I'm looking for. Also, sometimes I don't feel like paying full retail. As for couplers, most of the manufactures are going to the magnetic knuckle style coupler. They look more realistic and can also be uncoupled by installing a magnet in (or underneath) the track. Some older locos and rolling stock may come with the older style coupler but you can usually find conversion kits to convert them. There's a whole world of couplers including different sizes, lengths, and types to accommodate your layout and especially the curve radius. Here's a good place to check out the different HO styles. http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/000/453hobvv.asp Posts: 10 | From: So. Cal | Registered: Dec 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
IMHO, "Universal Couplers" are a BAD idea. There are two inherently weak points to any rolling stock (engines and cars): wheels and couplers. This is literally where "the wheel hits the steel" and there's enough slop and play between different manufacturers to cause all sorts of wierd problems. Trying to use a mix of different types and styles is always a hassle and leads to a lot of wasted energy and diappointment. "Universal" couplers are just another compromise that leads to another set of problems.
Do yourself a favor and standardize on ONE type - I recommend Kadee couplers and metal (P2K, JayBee, Atlas, etc..) for wheels. You'll find that Walthers trucks are too tight to accept them (and don't get me started on their first lightweight passenger car trucks - a kludge if there ever was one) so they'll need to be SLIGHTLY drilled out so the wheels turn freely.
Posts: 13 | From: Cupertino, CA,., USA | Registered: Jan 2003
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic
