posted
Sometimes one locomotive pulls more than the other (in other words, it has more power). It usually works for me to put the unit that pulls the most up front, so it doesn't push the locomotive ahead. Without doing this, sometimes this causes the couplers to pull apart, and your more powerful unit will take off down the track without the train! Good luck, and have fun.
Posts: 553 | From: Flagstaff, AZ USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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posted
Even if the locomotives are from the same manufacturer, they will frequently run at different speeds. This is particularly true of Lifelike P2k or P1k where they have directional lighting. if the locomotives are facing in opposite directions like an a-b-b-a set of E-8's for instance, the front a unit will have it's lighting package working, but the back unit will have it's lighting off, and the B's won't have lighting. The lead unit will tend to be slower than the other three units because of the lighting packages. It isn't much of a problem, it won't hurt them to try to push the slower loco around. When I buy Athearn "blue box" locomotives, I usually ask to test run them in the hobby shop, and I try to get two that will run together. I would also mention that I asked a friend how the La Mesa club that he belongs to can run 100 car trains on the Tehachapie layout at the San Diego Museum with mid train helpers and even rear train helpers? His reply was any engine will run with any other engine if you have enough weight behind it, or in front of it.
Posts: 70 | From: Lakewood, California, U.S.A. | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Just add some moldable lead weight to both Locos, This will increase the adhesion of your units, and the more you add, the more tractive force you ill have, Be careful to not add too much weight, That could result in smoked motors, use a meter to keep the track current at a safe level, good luck.
Posts: 1 | From: Lavaca Ark USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
It's been my limited experience & successful to match identical manufactured units.
A pair of F40PHs, LL-E7s, LLF3A-B-B-A. I struck out on the Atlas U33/36. One unit tops out 30% faster than the second unit.
With steam I cheat a little. I use a LL F3 B chassis under the shell of an Athearn ref car and cut int in half way back. Snug fit and I can climb the grade hauling 18 cars.
Posts: 213 | From: Grand Rapids Mi USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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