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Author Topic: Foam or hard-shell?
Max Killen
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I am building a layout featured in one of the Kalmbach books. It is an HOn3 layout designed by Malcom Furrow (spelling?). Anyway, I am going to start on the main mountain of the layout. (I have to build it completly first or I won't be able to reach it later). In his book, Malcom describes his method of scenery using foam. He used foam because he wanted to be able to move the layout from one place to another. I won't be able to do that (It can't fit out of the door now, and I'm just starting).
My question is this: If you want scenery for a home layout, which method is most desirable? Foam or Hard-Shell?
If they are both about the same, I still want so input as I have never done any scenery yet and would like the best, and easiest, and most forgiving method.

Posts: 8 | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Challenger
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It has been my experience with scenery for a permanant home layout that it is somewhat of a mixed bag. It depends on really how much of a mess your willing to make. If you make it out of Expanded Styrene Foam Insulation, the foam that Mr. Furlow is most likely referring to, you are going to make a really big mess getting it carved and put in place. The common names for this type of insulation is Pink, Blue, or Green board. The colors indicate R value. They should be available at your local home improvment store or lumber yard. At my local lumberyard there was was no change in price between the three colors and they are priced at $4.75 per 4 X 8 sheet. I grabbed a variety so as I could assign my scenery crews to different colored sections during work nights at the club (I am the officer in charge of scenery) If you use a hot wire foam cutter it cuts down on the amount of mess. But its still pretty big. But for this mess, you get a super adaptable scenic base that can be carved and shaped to almost any land form shape you can think of. When you have your basic landmass form in place. Cover it with a layer or two of plaster cloth or similiar hard shell type of covering and and finish senicing to desired level of finish.

For the hardshell method, you are going to have less mess putting in the scenery, but getting the desired landform you would like is going to be harder to obtain and you may have to carve some plaster to get the form you desire. There are three basic types of hard shell scenery. The first is the freestand shell. In that, the land form is initially built up by stacking old newspapers up until the very rough basic landform is achieved. Then ither plaster covered paper towls or plaster cloth (The stuff they make casts with) is draped over the news papers the layers are built up to a thickness. (6-8 layers of plaster) until the structure is self supporting. When dry, the news paper is removed from underneath if acess is available, and the hard sell is sceniced to desired finish. The second method is the wire form method. It takes chicken wire or heavy screen, and uses that to make the basic land form. Use blocks of wood to supprot the wire as you form it to the shape of the land form you desire. Attatch the wire to the wood supportd with heavy brads or staples. When you have the desired land form lay over the wires your choice of plaster soacked paper towls or news paper, plaster cloth or paper mache. Build up several layers of the shell and let dry. When dry scenic to the desired finish. The last hardshell method is the "grid" system. For this you are going to have to cut up alot of old cardboard boxes of common weight corrugated cardboard. Cut them into two inch wide strips and as long as you can make them. Cut them off at folds in the card board as they will cause problems when forming the land form later on. When you have your strips soak them in water so that they are pliable. Then take some strips and start at one end of your scenincing area and lay them out in paralell rows going across your area that you would like sceniced. leave about three to four inches of space between each strip. Its not rocket sicence so exact spacing is not critical. Form the card board to desired land shapes while it is still wet. and let dry. When that is dry, take more strips (wet of coarse) and weave that across the srips put down in the prevouse steps in a basket weave pattern. Again leave three to four inches between strips. At the ares where the strips make a criss cross. I suggest you staple them off for extra support. When that mess is dry, lay severl layers of ither plaster soaked paper towles or plaster cloth. When dry. Scenic to desired finish. This method works really well wih cookie cutter style benchwork where they may be little table top surcace in which to secure support for secnic forms.

I hope I have been of assistance to you and wish you luck on your layout.


Posts: 315 | From: Lander,WY USA | Registered: Jan 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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