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After Port Henry, The Adirondack began entering the most scenic portion of its route. We followed Lower Lake Champlain. There were many lakeside summer camps and recreational boaters out on the water. Vermont was on the other shore. The Green Mountains were in the distance. Behind me, a teen couple watched a movie on a laptop and giggled. I wished I didn’t have a seatmate. He smelled of stale beer. I wished there was a dome car.
As we rolled north, the lake grew wider and wider. It became a vast expanse of blue. Soon, we were traveling along a roadbed cut into high red cliffs above the lake. The drop down was precipitous. I shuddered to think of a derailment along the right-of-way. During one cliff-hanging, four-and-a-half mile stretch, the train must negotiate 128 curves. Far below, boats were anchored in little bays and inlets. People were sitting on deck chairs on small beaches inaccessible by road or rail. I saw a girl in a black bikini sunbathing. She didn’t look up at the train. Then we arrived at Port Kent. A ferry was pulling out of the docks for Burlington. Water gurgled and frothed at its stern. We were an hour late.
I was satisfied with how the day was going. No crying babies. Nobody with whooping cough. No unruly drunks. The restrooms were clean. The air-conditioning was working a-okay. I had a good seat for sightseeing. Soon we would be at the border and then, Montreal.
The café closed shortly before the border inspection at Rouses Point. The Adirondack came to a stop beside a chainlink fence. The Canadian Immigration agents made their way down the train, checking everyone’s passports and ID’s. When they got to me they asked why I was going to Canada. I told them I wanted to ride the train before it was cancelled. They wanted to know where I’d heard that was going to happen. “The Internet,” I replied. One agent said, “We are all going to be out of a job!” For some reason, they took my ID for further scrutiny.
I noticed there was a tower over the train. From what I could tell, it was a radiation scanner. There were warning signs in French and English. I thought about the consequences of a terrorist trying to cross the border with a “dirty” bomb. I wondered why the warning signs said Radiation Present.
We arrived at Gare Centrale at 8:05 PM. I had just $21 US in my pocket. Despite assurances from my bank that my new ATM card would work in Canada, I was worried. I found a Banque National ATM. It did not accept my card. The banks were closed. My heart sank. I pictured myself wandering the streets all night. I looked for another ATM. There wasn’t one. I went upstairs to the cab stand. I began going down the line, asking the drivers in broken French if they would accept American money. The first four said no; the fifth said yes, and I was on my way to my to my hotel!
I was delighted to find that my hotel, du Manoir St-Denis, was right in the middle of a nightlife district. Blue Christmas-type lights hung from the trees. Neon lights lit up the sidewalks. Traffic clogged the avenue. Pedestrians, couples, groups of teens on small stunt bicycles, and families out strolling, were everywhere. Everyone was speaking French, and every sign was in French! The place was pulsing with life. There were cafes, sandwich shops, bars, discotheques, and fine restaurants. I was so tired. It took so much energy to take it all in!
In the quiet of my hotel room I had to decide. Should I go out, or call it a day? I felt tired and nervous. It was about nine o’clock. I only had seven Canadian dollars. Nevertheless, I would only be in Canada one night! I had to go out. On the way down from my room, the hotel clerk told me try the ATM in the espresso café across the street. No luck there. It wouldn’t take my card. The clerk also recommended I try the ATM in the Metro station. The nearest was Berri-UQAM. I headed off into the crowds in that direction.
The Metro entrance was just one block away. I descended the steps to a long hallway. A beggar woman sat rolled up in a ball with her arm outstretched. Her palm was open. She looked directly in my eyes. I passed her. I thought I heard her ask, “What’s wrong?” I found the experience disturbing. Was she mentally disabled? Was she somebody’s mother? Was she ever pretty? How did she come to this? She’s stuck in my mind.
There was a Banque Laurentian ATM in the concourse of the Metro Station. I’d already tried two ATM's without success. Sacre Bleu! This one worked! I withdrew $40 CAD. I was back in business. I don’t recommend arriving in Montreal after banking hours without Canadian money.
I rode the Metro roundtrip from Berri-UQAM to Lionel-Groulx. The Metro was pretty much as I had remembered it. On board the train, people looked sullen, just like on a NYC subway. It sounded noisier than I remembered, though. The rubber tires made a very loud whooshing sound. I noticed that many of the Metro station’s escalators were out of service. It was a big climb back up to street level.
I decided to finish my day with a trip to Schwartz’s Deli. It’s a Montreal institution famous for its smoked meat sandwiches. Many celebrities have eaten there. Even though it was near midnight, there was a line to get inside. My sandwich was out of this world. I recommend Schwartz’s to anyone visiting Montreal.
The next day I woke up early to take some photos of Montreal at dawn. First I stopped at an all-night coffee shop. I was sitting there drinking my coffee when a scary shirtless man with dreadlocks down to his waist and tattoos all over his body came in the shop ranting in French. He screamed at the counter clerk and the clerk produced a bottle of water. The wild man threw some money at the clerk, sneered at me, snorted, and stormed out. I guess Montreal has its share of crazy street people!
I rode the Metro to Montreal's main suburban train station, Lucien-L'Allier, for a few pics of the first trains to arrive. This is a picture of the first train to arrive:
I walked the streets for a while taking in the sights of Montreal's morning rush hour. Then it was back to Gare Centrale to retrace my journey on Amtrak back to Syracuse. The Adirondack was crowded again. The train was the same consist and the crew was the same too. I couldn’t get a seat to myself. I slept most of the way to Schenectady. I was tuckered out. The highlight of the return trip was dinner in the Lake Shore Limited’s dining car between Schenectady and Syracuse. I had the seafood platter. It was salmon on rice. Very tasty.
royaltrain Member # 622
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I find it amazing you were able to visit Montreal so cheaply. As for Schwartz's Deli, it has to be 30 years since I was last there. I do remember having a fabulous corned beef sandwich so long ago.
Strange you had trouble with the Canadian ATM's. When I am in the U.S. my Canadian card always works in a U.S. machine.
I do hope you return to Canada some day to ride The Canadian. However nowadays you will have to come to Toronto since the Montreal section no longer runs.
TBlack Member # 181
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Dave, You made it! Just as an aside, I go to Ottawa and Montreal all the time on business and frequently have to use the ATM to get Cdn$. My experience has been that if it's an independent ATM they won't take my card, but if it's a bank owned machine, it'll work fine. TB
graynt Member # 17
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Wonderful travelogue. Having taken the Adirondack many times, I enjoyed your escapades. There used to be a currency exchange booth in Gare Station. Maybe it was closed by the time you got there.
Montreal is an exciting city. We usually go up for a couple of days and Priceline a hotel. We usually end up at the Quality Inn on Crescent Street,a nice part of downtown. It s too bad you didn't have more time to spend in the city. We usually buy a day long pass on the Metro and get off at random stops just to experience the different neighborhoods of Montreal. We were up last October when the dome car was attached. Hope it is back this fall. We plan to do it again.
Enjoyed your report. It's always fun going to Quebec. It's a whole different world so close by.
smitty195 Member # 5102
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Kind of off-topic here, but I do have a Canadian question. I will be driving up to Saskatoon in less than two weeks (helping a friend drive a U-Haul from Tucson, AZ to Saskatoon). Will I need Canadian currency before I cross the border? Do restaurants, etc, not accept American cash? I hadn't even thought about this until now. Thanks!
Ocala Mike Member # 4657
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Dave, did nothing happen between Schenectady and Port Henry? I was wondering if a lot of people got off the train at Saratoga for the races.
dmwnc1959 Member # 2803
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Just finished parts 1-3, and what an absolutely enjoyable read! What wonderful writing skills you have, and you made the story quite fun. THANKS for the adventure.
David Member # 3
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quote:Originally posted by smitty195: Kind of off-topic here, but I do have a Canadian question. I will be driving up to Saskatoon in less than two weeks (helping a friend drive a U-Haul from Tucson, AZ to Saskatoon). Will I need Canadian currency before I cross the border? Do restaurants, etc, not accept American cash? I hadn't even thought about this until now. Thanks!
Merchants close to the border are more likely to accept U.S. currency than those further away. My best guess is that businesses in Saskatoon would be less likely to accept U. S. cash than those in Toronto. In a centre where foreign currency is not as prevalent, merchants would have to go to the bank with it. Wherever I have been in the world I find it beneficial to obtain at least some local currency in advance. But there should be no problem exchanging U.S. dollars in any Canadian bank, especially in a fair-sized city such as Saskatoon.
dns8560 Member # 15184
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No more than to 10-20 people got off at Saratoga. I remember a priest was waiting there. He had a stiff back. He kissed an elderly woman who got off the train.
Glad everyone enjoyed my travelogue!
smitty195 Member # 5102
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Thank you for the reply, David!
palmland Member # 4344
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Your report makes me want to take the Adirondack! This is certainly a train that deserves one of Amtrak's make overs - Great scenery, great destination - and a foreign country to boot.
It would certainly be the way to start a trip on the Canadian. Does Via still have an overnight train Montreal to Toronto?
sojourner Member # 3134
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So glad you enjoyed the trip, Dave.
One time when I arrived at Gare Centrale in Montreal late with the bank there closed and was worried about not having Canadian money, I was able to change money at the Queen Elizabeth upstairs, even though they said they only did it for hotel guests (I was very convincing and convinced them--exchange rate was pretty bad there, btw). Another time we had no trouble getting a taxi that would take American money; first one we asked did. But maybe it's not as easy now that the rates are so close together.
I now keep about $20 in Canadian money to use upon arrival. Other than taxi and Metro, I really don't need much cash; almost every place took credit cards, even when I bought post cards and stamps!
I also buy a phone card, btw. Using US cell phone in Canada is tres chere.
Smitty, I envy your going to Saskatoon--hope it lives up to its name! (Kamloops didn't, but I liked it anyway)
MDRR Member # 2992
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Palmland- Sorry the overnight train between Mtr- Tor was discontinued approx 8-10 years ago. It's too bad, I used to love that service!
dns8560 Member # 15184
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I see in the 1985 VIA timetable that there was a train called The Cavalier which made an overnight run on the corridor between Montreal and Toronto with sleeping cars. The Cavalier does not appear in the 1990 VIA timetable. Overnight service between Montreal and Toronto is no more.
Amtrak's Night Owl once carried sleeping cars on the corridor between Washington, New York and Boston. For a while, there also was a service called The Executive Sleeper. It came up from DC on the n/b Owl and was set out at NY-Penn Station in the wee hours until a reasonable hour to wake up. Once I rode The Executive Sleeper between Philadelphia-30th Street and New York Penn. My car was available for occupation until 8 AM. It was odd to wake up in a silent, motionless sleeping car in midtown Manhattan. That service didn't seem to last for long.
How about an overnight Adirondack? It could leave NYP at 11 PM and get into Montreal at 9 AM. (I know, I know...)
sojourner Member # 3134
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DNS I don't see the point of a scenic train like the Adirondack running at night! But I do think it would be nice if, when you got into Montreal, you could catch a train to Toronto, Ottawa, and especially Quebec (none of them all that distant).
Palmland, with the westbound Canadian now leaving at 4PM, you could take the Adirondack, overnight in Montreal (never a hardship foodwise), and catch an early train to Toronto with a guaranteed connection onto the Canadian. If you instead took the Maple Leaf to make the connection, you would still have to overnight in Canada; it would just be in Toronto instead of Montreal. Of course, it would be more expensive to go via Montreal--but even though you'd have the added VIA Rail cost of Montreal to Toronto, your Amtrak fare would be lower, because the Adirondack is cheaper than the Maple Leaf.
Of course, if you want to do the whole enchilada, you should go to Boston, catch a Downeaster to Portland Maine, overnight there, take the ferry to Nova Scotia, overnight in Yarmouth (or rent a car), and catch the train from Halifax to Vancouver (via Montreal & Toronto). You have to leave Halifax the day before a Canadian is running; you get into Montreal early enough the next morning to make the connecting train to the Canadian in Toronto. Note that the ferry from Portland to Nova Scotia probably does not run all year.
David Member # 3
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: ...
Palmland, with the westbound Canadian now leaving at 4PM, you could take the Adirondack, overnight in Montreal (never a hardship foodwise), and catch an early train to Toronto with a guaranteed connection onto the Canadian. If you instead took the Maple Leaf to make the connection, you would still have to overnight in Canada; it would just be in Toronto instead of Montreal. ...
The Canadian leaves Toronto at 10:00 p.m. In theory, a same-day connection between the Maple Leaf and the Canadian is possible, but this isn't Europe and a connection of two hours 14 minutes is inadvisable. The Maple Leaf is often late by a considerable degree.
dns8560 Member # 15184
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Exciting news! I submitted my travelogue to Gannett newspapers yesterday, and I just got a phone call from Canadian Broadcasting Company asking if they could interview me! Evidently Gannett forwarded the story to Canada. The interview is going to be on the radio in Montreal tomorrow!
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