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I finally made my long-planned SW trip--my first train trip west--and it was just fabulous, the trip of a lifetime, really. All your advice about the Chicago layover, the SW Chief, and staying in Flagstaff was very helpful indeed--thank you all so much! I loved the observation deck, crossing the MIssissippi was so exciting, and the scenery from the time we approached the Raton Pass all the way till dark in Arizona was just gorgeous, with a special prize for the red cliffs between Albuquerque and Gallup--I was just glued to the windows!!! We also had an excellent chef on my westbound SW chef, best Amtrak meals I ever had. I had only one complaint: They put movies on in the observation car when it was still light, and the noise was very irritating when I wanted to look out the window, listen to music, or chat with those nearby. Plus I don't see why they bother with movies when it's still light out, no one watched, and you can barely see the screen when it's light. But otherwise, in spite of some delays on the Lakeshore Ltd due to track repair, I had a splendiferous trip, of which the train rides were a very important part, and your advice was SO helpful. Thank you all so much!
Having enjoyed myself so much, however, I can't help but feel that my curtailed trip on the California Zephyr in late summer is a mistake and that I should extend it and include the Empire Builder too!!! To do so, I will probably not be able to afford sleepers (I do have one to Denver), so I have some questions:
(1) Would it be a good idea to stop one night in Salt Lake City, stay overnight, and leave the next day? I don't mind the late-night stop--it's not THAT late, esp in summer--and I've always wanted to see a bit of SLC, but I'm worried about where I'd leave my luggage after checkout time at my hotel/motel. Does anyone know anything about the Travelodge by the Temple Square? Is that a good place to stay? Do you think they would have a concierge who would keep my luggage till after supper, when I catch a cab to the train station? Or should I leave it at the train station?
(2) Where should I catch the Coast Starlight. i.e., should I take the Zephyr to Sacramento, or all the way to Emeryville? Which is better scenerywise and timewise? Is there a good chance I would not make the connection? Should I stay overnight in either place and take the Coast Starlight the next day? If I do that, do you have advice on where I should stay? Since I am female, I do not want to stay anyplace not safe, though I also cannot afford more than about $100 a night. Is the train station in Sacramento convenient to the hotels and main sights in town? If I go all the way to Emeryville, I'd rather stay in downtown San Francisco, but I'm afraid with just a 1-night stay and traveling there and back from Emeryville, I could waste a lot of time and not see much (note that I have visited San Francisco before, by plane, and do not expect to see too much in one day anyway). What do you all advise? What is Emeryville like?
(3) Is Eugene Oregon worth a stop in for a night? I've heard it's nice but stopping there would probably mean I can only stay one night in Portland. Where is the train in relation to "downtown" in Eugene? Does anyone have any hotel recommendations for Eugene (and also for Portland and Seattle)?
(4) I would not have time to visit Vancouver but would have to return from either Portland or Seattle. If I cannot afford a sleeper, does anyone have advice on some place convenient (to someone without a car) and worth spending a night en route to Chicago? I need some place not too expensive either. I am not interested in train spotting, but I'd love to see something of Glacier National Park if that is possible with no car? Is there any place with a little bus tour or something? Should I consider stopping in Minneapolis instead? It's a city I've always wanted to see, though I hear it's hard getting around with no car. Is the train station in a good location? Does anyone have any input on hotels etc there?
Thanks for you advice! And thanks again for all the tips re the SW Chief/Chicago/Flagstaff.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I can answer a few of your questions. First, the train station in SLC is downtown, and any downtown hotel would be reasonably convenient. SLC is an interesting city, certainly worth a day. Any hotel you stay in will have a locked storage room in which they will be happy to hold your luggage. I do that all the time.
Second, I'd make the transfer at Sacramento, and stay overnight. There is one relatively inexpensive hotel downtown (can't recall the name right now -- not one of the big chains), and there's lots to see, including Old Town and the California State RR Museum. The train station is kind of on the north edge of downtown.
While there is a nice Woodfin Suites hotel adjacent to the train station in EMY, there isn't much else of tourist interest there.
Can't help with Eugene. I'll be staying there for the first time in my life in July. But Portland is a wonderful city, well worth a couple of days. The train station is on the north edge of downtown, a short taxi ride (and there are city buses as well). I last stayed downtown last year, in a Clarion Hotel that was reasonable and clean. Downtown Portland has free bus and light rail service (and a trolley too!) that they call the "Fareless Square" so it's easy to get around without a car.
I'd suggest you head east from Portland. For a one-night stopover, Glacier Park would be tough without a car. Minneapolis/St. Paul would be hard without a car, since the Amtrak station is midway between the two downtowns, near the U. of Minnesota. However, there is a nice Marriott Courtyard in the former MILW station in Minneapolis, and the downtown is very walkable. You'd have to cab from the Amtrak station, though.
Have a great trip!
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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In Sacramento, the Vagabond Inn is basically across the street from the Station. The last time we were there we had a very nice room for $75.00 using a AAA coupon. There is a Denny's next door and the California State Railroad Museum and Old Town Sacramento are also about a block away.
In Eugene, I stayed at the College Inn. It was very nice and easily under $100.00 a night. It would be a long walk from the station but a cheap cab ride. There may well be places closer to the station. I liked Eugene. It's a college town and has lots of good restaurants in the downtown area and near the station.
In Portland, I stayed at the Mark Spencer and was upgraded to a one-bedroom suite on their $89.00 room rate. I walked to the hotel and took the bus back to the station. It's within the fare free zone.
One caution, hotel rates can vary widely depending on demand, etc. I've seen the Mark Spencer as high as $149.00.
I've never had trouble storing luggage (as long as it's not a Steamer Trunk) at any hotel or motel for a couple of hours. A buck or two per bag is usually appreciated.
I hope this helps.
Frank in drizzly "June Gloom" SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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On my first train trip west (before I found this board with all its good adice!), I planned a same-day westbound CZ to northbound CS connection in Emeryville. At the time there was a 6-hour connection there - I reasoned that if that were not possible, they would probably transfer me in Sacramento (which at that time was a 10-hour layover). The CZ was 5 hours late to Emeryville and the CS right on time, so I made the connection easily.
I lived in Eugene many years ago & loved it for its location (halfway between coast and mountains). I understand that it has changed a lot since then, but I don't think I would consider it a "destination". If you are planning to stay two days in Portland, I would not bother with Eugene.
My daughter and I stayed at the Mark Spencer Hotel two weeks ago. We had a junior suite - separate bedroom, living room with sleeper sofa, and a KITCHEN! We found it very convenient - ate lunch at Jake's Famous Crawfish (which is almost next door) and cooked dinner in with goodies from Whole Foods. Even if a suite is more expensive, you could save $$ by not having to eat breakfast & dinner out.
In August I am planning a stay at the Izaak Walton Inn in Essex, Montana (on the border of Glacier Park). Part of my room/board package is a "Jammer" bus trip over Going-To-The-Sun Road, a highlight of any trip to Glacier Park. The Inn is a little pricey, though, but I've heard nothing but rave reviews about it. I think you could rent a car at the National Park Inn at East Glacier, but prepare for a lot of driving. If you want to really see the park, a day or two is perhaps not enough. You might also check with some hotels at West Glacier to see if they offer any sightseeing packages with their rooms. You can drive the Going-To-The-Sun Road, but it is a white-knuckler (and I'd rather look at the scenery). While it isn't 100% true, East Glacier is on the drier side of the mountains, so you might find better weather. A drive up to Swiftcurrent Lake would be lovely, but again you would see only a fraction of the park.
Posts: 122 | From: Milwaukee, WI USA | Registered: Jun 2004
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I wouldn't want to rain on your parade, and just to carry the simile a little further; one drop does not an ocean make BUT last June we pulled into SLC on the CZ on/about 2:00 AM. It was midnight the next day when we finally arrived at EMY. Fortunately for us someone who had ordered a cab wasn't there and we were able to "hijack" the cab for a ride to our hotel a mile or so away. Without that luck I don't know how long or if we could have gotten another cab. Now that I know about the Woodfin across the tracks that would be our first choice if we transit EMY again. Best regards Rodger
Posts: 83 | From: MERRIMAC,MA | Registered: Feb 2005
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It sounds as if Grandma Judy had a similar room to what I did at the Mark Spencer. As I recall, there were muffins and coffee in the "Library" in the morning. I took them up to my room and zapped them in the microwave. The hotel is also about a block from the big bookstore (name escapes me) and I didn't find Whole Foods until too late. Lots to do in downtown Portland and the surrounding area.
Frank in, finally, Sunny SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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Powell's Bookstore in Portland - definitely work a look. Our room at the Mark Spencer did not have a microwave - it had a small electric stove, sink and refrigerator.
Posts: 122 | From: Milwaukee, WI USA | Registered: Jun 2004
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Please allow me to second or third the suggestion of an overnight at the Vagabond Inn in Sacramento. I stayed there last July and paid about $85.00 with a AAA discount.
Beware, however, that there are two Vagabond Inns (it's a regional chain) in Sacramento. You want the 'Executive at Old Towne' (or some name like that) rather than the cheaper one out by the interstate.
The Inn is essentially across the street from the train station. You can get to your room and freshen up from the long railroad journey...particularly helpful if you've been in coach since Denver or Salt Lake City. The next morning there is a complimentary breakfast featuring do-it-yourself waffles. Denny's is next door if you would rather someone do it for you. After eating you could take in the California State Railroad Museum about a block away. About five blocks the other direction is a downtown mall with food court and a light rail station on the far side.....lot's of ways to spend the day. THEN, you could catch an afternoon/early evening corridor train to Emeryville or Oakland and board the Coast Starlight there.
I think you'll find Sacramento one of the most memorable stops for someone who is railfan enough to read this forum and plan this type of trip.
David Pressley
Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Grandma Judy: In August I am planning a stay at the Izaak Walton Inn in Essex, Montana (on the border of Glacier Park). Part of my room/board package is a "Jammer" bus trip over Going-To-The-Sun Road, a highlight of any trip to Glacier Park. The Inn is a little pricey, though, but I've heard nothing but rave reviews about it. I think you could rent a car at the National Park Inn at East Glacier, but prepare for a lot of driving. If you want to really see the park, a day or two is perhaps not enough. You might also check with some hotels at West Glacier to see if they offer any sightseeing packages with their rooms. You can drive the Going-To-The-Sun Road, but it is a white-knuckler (and I'd rather look at the scenery). While it isn't 100% true, East Glacier is on the drier side of the mountains, so you might find better weather. A drive up to Swiftcurrent Lake would be lovely, but again you would see only a fraction of the park.
You will absolutely love the Izaak Walton Inn. My wife and I stayed there for three nights on our honeymoon. It is pricey but quite worth the experience at least once. We enjoyed hiking during the days and carried bagged lunches which we purchased at the inn's restaurant each morning. On the fourth day we took Amtrak on to Whitefish, MT where Hertz used to have a rental office at the train station. We visited Glacier and Going-to-the-Sun Road driving the car we rented there.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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A few years ago we stayed at the downtown Marriott in SLC and managed to get a reasonable price. They had a courtesy van to the Amtrak station. More recently a friend stayed at Hampton Inn in downtown SLC and they also picked up even late at night. Either would surely be happy to store your luggage. SLC is a pretty nice city and you could even rent a car for the day and do some sightseeing such as to the nat'l monument at Promentory Point where the transcontinental railroad was joined.
The Calif Ry Museum IS really nice and a must see. If you stay at EMY, the Courtyard Marriott also picks up at Amtrak. As noted, the trains do overlap EMY to Sacramento which gives lots of margin on that same-day connection.
Posts: 561 | Registered: Jul 2003
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You did not specifically mention if you were checking baggage, but if you are, Whitefish and East Glacier are your only 2 choices at Glacier (Essex is not). You DO NOT need a car to see Glacier. Shuttles from everywhere to everywhere run $8-$40 depending on distance.
The magnificent Glacier Park Lodge, built by the Great Northern RR, is right behind the depot at East Glacier. It is pricey ($129+), and may require reservations well in advance. The open top red buses (jammers) circa 1920's provide spectacular tours from the lodge and are way easier than the white knuckle driving. Try a search on 'Glacier Park Lodge' and you will get a variety of hits on lodging and transportation options -and beautiful photos.
Whitefish has rental car service in the depot (Hertz and Budget) for about $40/day. Budget is slightly cheaper, has no mileage charge, and rents Toyotas. Many motels are near the large depot or have depot shuttles, and there is probably transportation into Glacier -about 25 miles.
I live within a mile of the Minneapolis/St. Paul station so I can tell you much about how to get around but nothing about hotels. Someone mentioned the downtown hotel in the old Milwaukee Depot. This is about 5 miles from Amtrak and would be an excellent choice of location where you could see alot without a car. The Stone Arch (walking) Bridge over St. Anthony Falls on the Mississippi is only blocks away.
Our new light rail line is 3 blocks away and can take you to the Mall of America (4th largest tourist destination in the U.S.). $3 will get you 6 hours of unlimited ride. You can also get off at Minnehaha Park station and walk to the falls of Minnehaha and or hike down the gorge to the Mississippi.
I can elaborate more if you do consider these stopovers. BTW I got off at SLC about 10 years ago and the neighborhood right around the depot was not good. It may have improved.
I am of the minority opinion that western overnight coach is not that bad, and I am 59 yrs old. A hooded sweatshirt, extra travel pillow, and a sponge bath get me through it ok. You can always sleep on one of the 3-seaters in the lounge too.
You might also consider that with free meals and not having to pay for a cab, a bedroom for some part of the trip is not that extravagant.
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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Eugene is a fun town, and if you are going through on a saturday, it would be worth it to stop there. There is a Saturday Market there, with a ton of cheap crafts and such. The train station is right down town(which is small), and the Oregon Electric Station resturant is pretty good. If you like hiking, you could stop by and walk along Pre's trail (named for Famous track star, Steven Prefontaine.) I would suggest going to Portland, for two days, but Eugene can be a fun time too. Brad
Posts: 15 | From: Eugene, Or | Registered: May 2005
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Thank you all so much for your advice and the very useful hotel tips. I think I will stop over a night in Sacramento, since it sounds so convenient, rather than Emeryville, and will forego SLC and Eugene, focusing on Denver and Portland this time. And I guess I won't stop in Montana because (perhaps some of you misunderstood me) I do not want to rent any cars, and it sounds like it would be too hit or miss whether I can see much of Glacier Park without one. And now that I check the schedule, I see that Minneapolis is too far east to be a convenient stopover either--what I need is a stopover betweem the first and second nights of the trip, not on the last day of the trip, when I'm so close to Chicago already. So I will instead take the advice of TwinStar and get a sleeper for at least part of the Empire Builder trip back to Chicago. Though I do hope to visit SLC, Eugene, AND Minneapolis some day--perhaps on the trip where I visit Seattle and Vancouver!!!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Thanks to those who made up for my memory lapse. Yes, I was thinking of the Vagabond Inn. Good place to stay.
And with regard to a sleeper on the EB, do get one. THere is little to see between Cut Bank and Minot, and it's a *long* trip. No good place to break for a day, either.
A decade ago I had a Superliner Deluxe room to myself from Wenatchee to Milwaukee. Enjoyed the trip greatly -- a real contrast to the westbound leg, four long days from Havre to Wenatchee in the cab of a grain train locomotive! (legally)
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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The eastbound Builder has the best timing for scenery. Please arrange to be glued to a window, or better, in the lounge by daylight of the first morning until Cut Bank. I agree with Mr. rresor. The endless horizons east of Cut Bank give new meaning to the word endless. The scenery up the gorge from Portland to sunset is also fantastic.
I am disappointed you gave up on Glacier. If you are into spectacular mountain scenery within a few miles of a train you can't beat it. You can do it without a car, and with a little research you might be able to do it on the cheap. On my last trip, a young woman got off in West Glacier and walked 3 miles into a campground, took the red bus around the park and got back on the train. And she was moving from Boston to Seattle and carried all her belongings with her on a bike trailer. I ran into her waiting for the train afterward and she was awed by the red bus tour and spent very little money.
Of course you can always save it for another trip. I loved Old Sacramento and could easily spend a day there. Not to bad mouth my home town, but I think most your other options would be more interesting than Minneapolis.
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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quote:Originally posted by rresor: And with regard to a sleeper on the EB, do get one. THere is little to see between Cut Bank and Minot, and it's a *long* trip. No good place to break for a day, either.
I've always been kind of curious about spending 24 hours off the train in Havre......not sure why. Maybe because after all the........well....endless nothingness one sees from the Empire Builder, Havre seems inviting and like it really is something.
David Pressley
Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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In Sacramento you might look into the Delta King. That's where we're staying when we stop on our way from SF to Denver.
Our travel agent tells us that it is an authentic paddleboat that used to take people from SF to Sacramento. We can walk to it from the train stain, so it's right in Old Town. Price only about $100 in June.
Posts: 72 | From: Illinois | Registered: Apr 2005
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I've lived across the bay from San Francisco and can say that Emeryville has little to offer tourists. But, during non-rush hour times, the drive into San Francisco takes less than 30 min.
Last time I was in Sac'to, I wandered around the public areas of the Delta King and it is indeed a handsome vessel. Plus, it is walking distance from the railroad museum and Old Town (touristy) district.
Posts: 9 | From: Berkeley, CA | Registered: Jun 2005
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