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» RAILforum » Passenger Trains » Amtrak » Cross Country by Rail-Trip Report (Long)

   
Author Topic: Cross Country by Rail-Trip Report (Long)
box297
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My wife and I traveled across the USA with several stops from our starting point in Spring Mount, PA. Here is a report on the travel with an emphasis on the rail journey:
5/1-Drove from our home to a long-term parking lot at Philadelphia Intl. Airport. Since we would be flying home, it made sense to leave the car at the airport. From there we took the free parking lot shuttle over to the airport to hop on the SEPTA R1 rail line, which travels between the airport and center city Philadelphia. We took the R1 to Amtrak's 30th Street Station. I've always liked 30th Street Station because it is one of the few remaining railroad palaces that actually makes use of the Grand Hall as its main waiting room. From Philly we took Amtrak regional service(unreserved coach) to DC Union Station. We were lucky to get 2 seats together, and this leg went smoothly, as we pulled in roughly 10-15 minutes late. This was fine, since we gave ourselves a couple hours padding. We used the time to explore DC Union Station and have a nice lunch at the American Cafe. Lots of good eating options there.
Just before our train (Capitol Limited) was scheduled to depart, we bought some deli sandwiches (both were pretty weak-basically a gigantic pile of sub-par cold-cuts on stale bread), which would be our dinner on the train. We were booked into coach on the Capitol Limited for the overnight trip to Chicago.
The Cap was 2 hours late leaving DC because of some late makeup equipment, which was incredibly frustrating. This was because A) It was approaching rush hour now and the station was becoming increasingly busy, and B) it's just tough to start out a long trip like that.
I can't sugarcoat it-coach overnite was tough. We crawled out of the DC area and lost another hour. By the time the best scenery of the trip was to pass it was getting dark :/
5/2-Just outside of Cleveleand, and we stopped around 5AM and sat for over an hour because a freight ahead of us hit a pedestrian. We were now running around 5 hours late, and would not make up any time the rest of the trip. We pulled into Chicago just after 2PM. Ugh.
This killed me because I had tickets to a Cubs game that day at 1:20, and wound up missing most of the game. Took the EL up to Wrigley after checking in to our hotel.
If I had it to do all over, given the time constraints, I would have flown to Chicago, but I wanted to 'travel across the country by rail'
5/3-We were booked for a roomette on the CZ. Upon boarding, the roomette looked like a luxury hotel having just travled overnight in coach [Smile]
Our attendant in 531 was Tony. Very good service, zero attitude. The roomette was plenty for the two of us, and I'm 6'1" 220lbs. It was a superliner 2 car, for what that's worth. We left our suitcases below and had room for two small personal bags in the room. What a pleasure it was to have privacy(On the capitol limited I had a woman who snored like a wounded moose sitting behind me and another woman in front of me who took a cell phone call at 2:30AM and proceeded to talk for over an hour!). If you have the means, it pays to get a room for an overnight trip. All of the controls worked, there were no annoying vibrations, and we were able to control the temp very easily by adjusting the AC baffle.
The Zephyr rolled nicely through Illinois and Iowa, and Susan, the dining car stewardess took our reservations for dinner. Since we had eaten at the rib place in Chicago (Robinsons?...whatever...it was tasty), we were full and opted for a later seating. At dinner I had the steak, since I figured it would be one of the last done under broiler on this train. It was edible...cooked well, but not much flavor. The missus had the cod, which tasted good, but was a bit rubbery. I would probably give our first meal on board a C+. We sat with a couple from CT, and talked baseball (he was a Red Sox fan, and I a Yankee fan). Given our allegiances, it was a refreshingly pleasant conversation. We would eat with them several more times on the trip. The 'forced' socialization at meal times was good for us, because left to our own devices neither of us would be very social, and all of our meals featured pleasant conversations with nice, interesting people, and added to the enjoyment of the trip.
Sleeping the first night was a bit tough because of rough rail, but definitely better than trying to sleep in coach. I was a good sport and took the top bunk. It was just enough room for a large mammal like myself.
Day 2 started with breakfast as we sat in Denver. I was able to check out Coors Field as I munched. I consider myself a french toast expert, and that was some of the best I've ever had. Too bad they're tinkering with the food delivery. Eating a real meal on the train is an incredibly unique experience, and one of the big draws on LD trains, imho.
We went to the sightseer lounge after breakfast, and filmed as we climbed into the Rockies. It was a bit foggy as we climbed, but clear on the other side of the Moffat Tunnel. It was 'ooohs and ahhhs' all around as we made our way into Winter Park.
The rest of the day through Colorado was spectacular. Lunch as we rolled through the Rockies. I had the angus burger, which was pretty good. We got stopped by the UP outside of Glenwood springs, and the announcement was "we finally got ahold of the UP dispatcher, who'd been ignoring us, and he said we have to wait for a couple freight trains and refused to say how long the wait would be." How about that for inter-company relations? If I treated a colleague like that, I'd be on the way out!
I figured given the lack of motion, this would be a good time to try out the shower. It was better than expected...all the controls worked, plenty of hot water, and plenty of towels. I gave a favorable report to the wife, and she tried it with the same success, eben though we actually started moving while she was in there.
Dinner the second night was a highlight, as I had the baked half-chicken and enjoyed it thouroughly. I thought this was the best meal of the trip. The chicken came out perfectly done, and it was a huge portion for one. It might have been because I was so full that I slept like a baby that night [Smile]
Day three was breakfast in NV with a very nice couple from England. The husband was a London Firefighter, and I am a volunteer Firefighter myself, so we talked about that, and good beer over breakfast. After breakfast we had to stop because a vagrant was walking on the tracks and didn't move until the train almost hit him.
After Reno, we climbed up into and over the High Sierra. More filming, picture taking, and the requisite 'oooohs and ahhhs'. I find the Sierras to be more picturesque than the Rockies.
Lunch was our last meal on board and I had the buffalo chicken pizza...very tasty and had some 'kick' to it.
As we rolled down into the Sacramento valley, it finally dawned on me that we were in California...such a smooth transition, and no jet lag to speak of. Our trip was nearing its end, and I found myself wishing it wasn't. I took one last walk and filmed my way through the entire train, said goodbye to all the nice people who helped us enjoy our trip (I was impressed by the demeanor of the staff...it has to be tough, what they do), and went back to the roomette to pack up. Emeryville came, and we transferred to the San Fran bus, and got dropped of at the front door of the Powell Hotel, right in front of the cable car turnaround.
San Fran was great...we got a Muni 3 day pass and took the cable cars everywhere, as well as the historic trolleys, the light rail, buses.
We rented a car and drove down the PCH to LA (incredible drive). In LA we visited my alma mater (Whittier), did soem tourist stuff, and flew home the next day.
Trip of a lifetime. Every American owes it to themselves to take that ride at lease once. I hope LD rail travel survives in some form. I thought, given all the circumstances, Amtrak did a great job.

Posts: 3 | From: phila, pa | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
notelvis
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Great first post.........thanks for sharing your trip with us.

--------------------
David Pressley

Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!

Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes.

Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ray S
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Very enjoyable post! I always like the trip reports. Sorry you missed the Cub's game. Best ballpark in my opinion.

I travel by train each summer from Florida to DC with a connection to Chicago. I rest a day and catch the CZ west. This year I get of in Reno. I will spend time out west and return by The Empire Builder from Seattle. Can't wait. Leave June 15th.

I agree with getting a room. Only way to go if possible.

Ray

Posts: 70 | From: West Palm Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Apr 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
irish1
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i agree i find the sierra better than the rockies.

--------------------
The Copper Country Limited [Milwaukee Road-Soo Line] and the Peninsula 400 [CNW} still my favorites

Posts: 175 | From: FENCE WI USA | Registered: Oct 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
RRRICH
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Good report, Box! We always enjoy hearing of our fellow passengers' travels!
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
palmland
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How about that, We were also on the Capitol on those dates. Did not mind the delay out of DC as it gave an ooportunity to see some of the Potomac west of Harpers Ferry that would normally be dark. Was pleasantly surprised by the the good food and excellant crew in the diner given all the discussion on Simplified Dining. With a bedroom, sounds like we were able to get more sleep than you. Wonder why they don't ban cell phone use in coaches during sleep hours? The delay after Cleveland was clean up from a wreck in Goshen, In a week or so earlier and then more delay with a major track program rersuling in single track operation beyond Elkhart. We also had Cubs tickets, but stashed our bags in the Lounge in Chicago and took a taxi to the game - got there in the 3rd inning. All in all a good trip - especially if you are not on a tight schedule.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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