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OK, I have a big trip planned for this winter (to AZ, using SW Chief and Sunset Ltd) but would like to take at least one more trip out west next year and have to make some decisions. I wonder if anyone wants to give your input.
Main decision: I figure I can afford EITHER the trip on CA Zephyr and shuttle to Jackson to see Yellowstone/Grand Teton OR a trip on the Canadian/Skeena but not both. I've been on the Zephyr thrice but because of detours and delays only seen the area between Denver & Glenwood Springs by daylight once and do want to see that again some time (I have seen Glenwood Springs thru Ruby Canyon twice and SLC to Sacramento thrice). I've never been to Yellowstone or Grand Teton parks. I'd be visiting these from Jackson (I have to take an airport shuttle from SLC to Jackson, where I'd stay about 4 nights) and have to go mid-June-August, when Gray Line tours of Yellowstone and Grand Teton run out of JAckson. I would likely go June or early July when days are longest, and make sure to do the Denver to SLC on a Saturday to try to ensure no detour. Also, I would be seeing several capitols (stopping in Lincoln NE; Denver again to see capitol, which I never toured last time; and SLC; possibly even Helena using buses or even continuing on to Reno/Carson City or even vague but unlikely Boise, using more buses, depending on how long I make this trip. . . . but some of these can be pretty hot in June, right? I could return using the Zephyr or Empire Builder (I've been on latter 5 times so it's not as vital to me)--it likely would be Zephyr if I come back to SLC & then do Carson City but I'm still tempted to take new & improved Coast Starlight if I use GRP & return on Empire Builder, always so much more on time into Chi. . . .
OTOH, I have never been on the Canadian east of Jasper and never on the Skeena either. I would likely have to do this April or May when rates are somewhat lower. In giving advice, keep in mind I did the Rocky Mountaineer to Banff and bus to Jasper and VIA Rail from Jasper to Vancouver this past year.
Obviously, whichever I choose, I can plan to do the other the following year. But still, you never know what will happen, I always treat every trip like I may never have time or money to do another, if you know what I mean .. . ..
If I do the latter/Canadian, I have several other decisions you all can help me with, should you have any input.
A. I could go up to Toronto on the Maple Leaf, spend two nights (getting in late on the first; and I have a cousin and friends to see there, though I'd have to stay in a hotel), then catch the Canadian westbound. I could get a sleeper all the way to Jasper and then catch the Skeena. I could then take that ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy (on Vancouver Island) and go by bus, of if feasible bus plus train, down to Victoria (to which I've been once, based on all your recs, & loved). I could then catch the Clipper to Seattle (to which I've been twice), overnight there, and come home on the Empire Builder, probably using GRP for sleepers.
B. I could go up to Toronto on the Maple Leaf, spend the 2 nights there & catch the Canadian per above, getting a sleeper all the way to Jasper, then catch the Skeena to Prince Rupert, then go BACK from Prince Rupert to Jasper and redo the Canadian to Vancouver (a route I did last year for the first time; and a city to which I've been twice), see friends in Vancouver (but stay in hotel), then catch the Amtrak down to Seattle (to which I've been twice), overnight there and come home next day on Empire Builder, probably using GRP for sleepers.
C. I could go up to Toronto on the Maple Leaf, spend the 2 nights there & catch the Canadian per above, getting a sleeper all the way to Jasper, then catch the Skeena to Prince Rupert, then go BACK from Prince Rupert to Jasper, then take the Canadian back COACH to Edmonton, spend 2 nites there, then take the Canadian back COACH to Winnepeg, spend 2 nites there, then either return to Toronto and catch the Maple Leaf home (OR I think I could also take a bus from Winnepeg to some place with Amtrak in North Dakota (or maybe even all the way to Minneapolis? I have to check) & catch the Empire Builder into Chicago and get home from there). If I do this I could look into option of No American Rail Pass with upgrade to sleeper on outbound trip. As far as going coach, I really don't mind that sometimes (unlike some of you) so I'm not worried. I just don't know if I want to go and come the same way so much . . . and keep in mind I cannot use GRP points for this so it will cost me quite a bit more . . . really depends on how worth seeing Edmonton and Winnepeg are. . . .
D I can do basically the same as A or B but go OUT on Amtrak and come back on VIA Rail. I don't think I'd have time to go with the Zephyr though! and certainly not for all the stopoffs if I want to use GRP. I would again have to decide between Vancouver or Victoria Clipper to Victoria and the boats to Prince Rupert. I think there may also be a bus from Vancouver to Prince Rupert but I don't know that I'd want to do that.
Finally, I should mention I am actually already booked for the outbound portion of the Yellowstone trip (trainwise, not hotelwise). It is only all your talk about the Canadian that has whet my appetite for the other, which I had thought to put off at least til 2009 . . .
BTW, also, all this talk of bringing back the Pioneer also makes me think about all the yecky buses I'd have to take now to see Helena or Boise when I might get a train chance some day in the future. . .
Well, what do you all think?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Oh man........I'd pick option A.....especially if you could manage to work the Vancouver Island RDC down to Victoria in with it.
So many choices and options but here's the thought that comes to my mind -
It is surprising how little mountain scenery there is going east from Jasper. It's like within 90 minutes or so the train is on the plains and the mountains are a distant memory.....much like coming eastward on the Empire Builder once you're beyond Marias Pass.
If I had limited time (which is usually the case) but wanted some Canada train riding, I would concentrate my efforts towards the Skeena, a train I have never ridden yet.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Absolutely do the Skeena. It is now on my list. I have been looking at the ferry south from Prince Rupert. Heard that it is an exhausting, long trip and at the end of it you are still out nowhere. That part worries me and a return trip on the Skeena might be best. You know how good VIA is, any trip on VIA has to be the way to go, all the way from Toronto, yes. I like option B - Vancouver is a beautiful city and worth another visit.
-------------------- Vicki in usually sunny Southern California Posts: 951 | From: Redondo Beach, CA | Registered: Aug 2006
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Oh, I forgot one more option--Maple Leaf to Via Rail Canadian to Skeena to Prince Rupert, then Alaska Ferry to Juneau and Sitka (I never got to Sitka on my cruise), and then Alaska ferry back to Bellingham. . . .I doubt I can afford that this year for sure, but maybe I should consider it. Has anyone taken these Alaska ferries? They don't seem to run very often; coordination will be difficult
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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It would be a good idea to check the ferry schedules. Unless things have changed since we tried to make that trip they do not run all year. We were up there in May and missed the trip because the ferry wasn't running until several weeks later.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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The only real way to see the Inside Passage is on the Alaska ferries, technically called the Alaska Marine Highway System. It's loads of fun. You can have a real Alaskan experience when you choose to pitch your tent and camp on the afterdeck, no campfires, please. Or you can have a slightly less Alaskan experience and sleep in the lounge. One night I slept on the floor. Or you can take an "Alaskan cruise" and get a stateroom. I've done that, too. The food is OK, it's Air Force chow hall quality. The last time I was on the M/V Matanuska the dining room served creamed beef on toast for breakfast.
The ferries run regularly between Prince Rupert and Juneau. You can catch the milk run ferry--actually, they don't have milk in Southeast, so I guess it should be the salmon run--between Juneau and Sitka. It's an overnight trip to all the small villages along the way. Then you can get a mainline ferry from Sitka back to Bellingham. If you go to Sitka you MUST see the New Archangel Dancers.
The ferries run year-round in Southeast and during the summer between Juneau and Whittier. The ferry down to Bellingham runs only once each week.
Every time I've been on the ferry I've had wonderful time. I've always met interesting people--the family from Alice Springs, Australia, who didn't understand that the drinking age in the U.S. is 21--and seen wonderful sites. Some of the channels are so narrow that you feel like you could reach out and touch the trees. And it's always fun to cross Queen Charlotte Sound in 5-meter seas.
If you want to travel on the AMHS you MUST get reservations early, doubly so if you want a stateroom.
-------------------- Kiernan Posts: 155 | From: Santa Fe, New Mexico | Registered: Apr 2005
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I have taken the ferry between Port Hardy & Prince Rupert - it is a very long ride (about 15 hours, I think). If you do, the scenery is wild & spectacularly desolate - we only saw 2-3 other boats and this was in early July. I would recommend getting a day room on the ferry - not expensive & a private space with your own bathroom to get some quiet rest. Port Hardy is a very small town & I would line up a place to stay in advance if you plan on traveling southbound. I did the trip northbound as part of a tour which included the Skeena ( arranged thru Rocky Mountaineer & Accent On Travel - AOT gave me the advice about the ferry room which no one else on the tour knew about).
-------------------- My new "default" station (EKH) has no baggage service or QuikTrak machine, but the parking is free! And the NY Central RR Museum is just across the tracks (but not open at Amtrak train times. . ..) Posts: 337 | From: Goshen, IN | Registered: Jun 2006
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