posted
My trip began with a morning Amtrak down to New York City on the Empire Service, along the lovely Hudson River as per usual. The train was comfortable, clean, and on time, as those trains originating in Albany (or Vermont) tend to be. Using my Guest Rewards Select pass, I stored luggage in the ACELA Lounge of New York's Penn Station and caught the uptown M-4 city (MTA) bus, just across the street from the 7th Avenue exit of Penn Station. I took this bus up to the Museum of the City of New York, a slow trip but not so bad on weekends. There I saw the special exhibits marking the 400th anniversary of Henry Hudson's sail up the river along which I had just come down. These exhibits are interesting but small; but if you've never seen the permanent collection at this museum and are interested in New York (city and/or state) history, I'd say it's certainly worth going--plus, you can get a pass for a discount at the NY Historical Society Museum (on the West Side of Central Park) and the Lower East Side Tenement Museum. Since I know a lot of the history already, I found the most interesting (and moving) part of these special exhibits the computerized predictions showing what different parts of Manhattan probably looked like when Hudson sailed into port. . . .
After spending some days with family and friends, including a Long Island Railroad trip (which was fine, and not made in rush hour, so there was little problem traveling on this sometimes jam-packed commuter train with luggage), I spent a final night back in Manhattan before leaving on my little trip to New England.
North by Northeast
I was able to catch an early NE Corridor Regional to Boston. I had about going ACELA, given the special rates this summer; but in fact this Regional train was not so busy and quite comfortable for me; I sat on the right side facing forward to see all the nice views of the Long Island Sound (mainly between New Haven and Providence), but early on, I did move to an empty seat on my left for the Manhattan departure views of the city from Queens & the Hellgate Bridge through the Bronx. . . .
Arriving in Boston South again on time, I stored two pieces of luggage for $3 (apparently same price 1 or 2 bags) in the left luggage room near Track 10 (or 11?), since the Red Cap would not hold it for me and I was not entirely sure when I was leaving. I had been planning to meet up with a friend who lives in the Boston area and also to see her and spend some time with her on the homeward trip; however, owing to a death in her family, she had to cancel at the last minute. So I was on my own in Boston. In spite of dire weather predictions, it was only drizzling a bit as I made my way down to Concord Street and over the bridge into Boston South, where I ate a delicious inexpensive lunch before walking back across the pedestrian bridge to Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall, where I picked up some cookies for my upcoming bus trips. I then went to check out the North Station but found it surprisingly far--too far to walk with luggage, I decided. I caught the T and went to Beacon Hill for a bit (to check out a future possible hotel in Boston, among other things) before taking the T back to Boston South.
By this time it was raining harder, so, instead of waiting around in rainy Boston and taking a rush-hour taxi or the T with luggage to Boston North to catch the Downeaster at 5PM, I decided to take an earlier Concord Coach from the bus terminal adjoining Boston South and take my chances on the weather in Portland. Picking up my luggage in the storage area, I navigated with relative ease over to Track 1 and the bus terminal, bought my bus ticket and caught the 3:15 bus. The trip was fairly boring (all highways), but Concord Coach is very nice, comfortable, and reasonably priced, and it leaves you right at the nice little train station in Portland. And the weather WAS better as soon as I left Boston--a bit foggy, but no real rain.
On the advice of folks here, I had booked at the former Doubletree Inn right by the station, now a Clarion. This hotel was OK if not great (had some maintenance problems); still, for my purposes, which included a bus round trip to Augusta, it was mighty convenient and not too too pricey. The hotel also had a free shuttle (subject to availability) that I used to take me down to the Old Port for a tasty lobster roll and cole slaw at J's Oyster House--very busy, but I sat at the bar. I walked around some and went in to hear some good acoustic music in a bar before getting picked up by the hotel shuttle and returning to my room.
A Tale of Two Buses
The hotel did not give free breakfast, so I chose to dine on my cookies before leaving fairly eearly for Augusta and my capitol tour. Unfortunately, Concord Coach does not have a morning bus from Portland to Augusta, so I had to take Greyhound. P-u! the station was tawdry, the bus old and pretty crowded, and the price far more than Concord charges! The weather was fine, however--one of the few nice days the NE has had lately!--and the ride was mercifully short. Also, it did get off the highway some, so that I did get to see Lewiston/Aurora, which was interesting. Also, in Lewiston, several people got off, so my seat companion moved to an empty seat, and I was more comfortable. I was let off at the Augusta airport, which was fine--on approaching it, I had phoned for a local cab, which came promptly and took me to the capitol (at very low cost). After my excellent tour, and a walking around "capitol hill" to see Blaine House (Governor's Mansion) and the park across the street, I phoned for and caught another cab to the very lovely new Concord Coach terminal, traveling through Augusta's downtown with a bit of a detour to see the Kennebec River. The bus I caught back to Portland was $13 (Greyhound had been $21!), comfortable and new, and Concord Coach even gave passengers free bottles of water and pretzels!
So, once again, I note how shabby Greyhound is compared to all other modes of transportation!
Back in Portland early, I again took the hotel shuttle down to the Longfellow House (which I did not tour; schedule didn't work out) and walked a few streets on the main drag hereabouts before walking back down to the old port, where I had tasty Beal's ice cream (having skipped lunch) and was able to take a late afternoon boat ride of Casco Bay. This was most excellent--not foggy as Portland harbor was last time I was there. I was also mighty tempted by that Nova Scotia ferry, but that's another trip (and if I do that, I'd take that tourist train too!). I had dinner by the port and again caught the hotel shuttle back up, making an early night of it.
Homeward Bound
Early the next morning I caught the Downeaster back to Boston--a nice comfortable trip from the pleasant Portland train station. Though not terribly scenic, it was pretty (though a bit foggy) on leaving Portland and in several other spots in Maine, especially by Saco (I'm thinking I might enjoy going back here). Though the train was not crowded initially, lots of commuters boarded on the way, especially in New Hampshire. This was also the only train of my journey that was late--only about 10 minutes, because there had been some breakdown of the commuter train in New Hampshire, and we made an unscheduled stop to pick up some of its passengers!
Arriving in Boston North was a bit of a hassle for those traveling on, but I shared a cab with another passenger heading for Boston South, hailing it on the Causeway. I am wondering if there are always cabs here, even if it were raining (luckily it wasn't). My cab friend was catching a Regional to New Jersey, but I was going home with the Lakeshore Ltd, so I had a few hours in Boston again. This time I was able to leave my luggage directly with the Red Cap. I then took the T over to the Back Bay to see Copley Square again and walk on Newbery Street and whatever. After that, I returned on the T to Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall for a cookie restock (I had eaten all mine and also wanted to bring some home to my spouse) and an early lunch in my favorite Boston Latino fast-food establishment heading back to Boston South. I met my Red Cap, who put me on the LSL. The coach seats were comfortably large, as they often are on long-distance coaches; but the train was quite busy, so that by Worcester I had a passenger next to me (the conductor said the train was completely booked, so I was lucky to have been able to make the last-minute change to it a few days before, when my friend canceled on me).
The trip is slow but pretty, especially west of Springfield--I went into the lounge, which was not too crowded, and sat there to see everything better, though of course this time of year the trees due block some of the water. We arrived in Albany right on time, so I have no complaints about the train and am sad to hear about other posts here that do. But I suppose every day is different!!!
I do think another train on this line would do well--not all the way to Chicago, but there were plenty of people in coach traveling only from Massachusetts to Albany or elsewhere in upstate NY (also seemd like quite a few to Cleveland, so maybe it should go that far and perhaps go on to Akron before returning--would be nice to resume service to Akron, wouldn't it? Just a though. . . . )
All in all, for me, this was a fine trip. I would like to go back to Portland and catch the ferry to Nova Scotia and come home on VIA Rail, if only I could afford it!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I am in agreement with you on Greyhound, b-t-w. One of my least pleasant rail journeys ever ended up be cabbed from Chicago Union Station to catch the last Greyhound of the nioght to Milwaukee after missing my connection to the last Hiawatha of the day.
I'll not try to conjure my memories....we'll just leave it at ick.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: All in all, for me, this was a fine trip. I would like to go back to Portland and catch the ferry to Nova Scotia and come home on VIA Rail, if only I could afford it!
I did this trip a couple of years ago from Toronto to Halifax on VIA, rental car to Yarmouth and "The Cat" Ferry to Portland......What a fast ride!!!
posted
I really enjoy the reports of your "sojourns". Keep 'em coming!
-------------------- My new "default" station (EKH) has no baggage service or QuikTrak machine, but the parking is free! And the NY Central RR Museum is just across the tracks (but not open at Amtrak train times. . ..) Posts: 337 | From: Goshen, IN | Registered: Jun 2006
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posted
Great trip report, sojourner. I may have missed your reasoning, but I'm curious as to why you didn't take the Downeaster, Boston to Portland.
I notice you mentioned passing through Lewiston/Aurora; I take it you meant Lewiston/Auburn, right? There is an Aurora, ME, but it's way "downeast" of Bangor.
Lewiston, ME is my mother's birthplace and, in another life, I went on all-rail "sojourns" there from GCT in NY via NYNH&H, B&M, and MEC. Had lots of French-Canadian aunts, uncles, and cousins in the Lewiston/Auburn "twin cities" area back then.
Posts: 1530 | From: Ocala, FL | Registered: Dec 2006
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posted
Thanks for another great report, Ms. Sojourner! I'm glad you got to ride the Downeaster -- sounds like it was a pretty good ride (I've not been up "thataway" yet on any of my rail travels)
I agree with Ocala Mike, though -- why would you opt for the charter bus BOS-Portland rather than take the Downeaster up there?
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
It was not a charter, Mr Rich, it was a Concord Coach bus—a small NEw England line competing with Greyhound (though far superior IMO). As for my reasons for taking it, I thought I explained. The Downeaster leaves from Boston North station, which has no luggage storage facility. If it did, I'd have gone there first thing, left my luggage there, and done my walking and T-riding in Boston, coming back to catch the 5 PM train (The schedule of the Downeaster is such that I would have had to wait until 5PM to take a Downeaster.) Since Boston North has no luggage storage capacity, I had to store my luggage at Boston South station and thus come back to it. The bus terminal, from which Concord (and Greyhound and others) depart for Portland etc adjoins Boston South station--I could pick up my luggage in the train station and just walk over to Track 1 and down to the bus station using escalators (and/or an elevator part of the way) without even going outside. To go to Boston North to catch the 5PM Downeaster, on the other hand, I'd still be back at Boston South getting my luggage but then have to leave myself enough time to get a taxi in the rain and get to Boston North in time to catch the 5PM train--and probably get there early and wait around. (I did not want to take the T, which involves a station change, with the luggage; but even then, I'd have had to leave myself enough time to do it and probably get there early and wait around then too.) Also, since it was raining pretty heavily in Boston, I thought I'd take a chance and get up to Portland and see if the weather there was better. I was in Boston for several days last fall and other times recently and expect to be there perhaps again this fall, while I have been to Portland only once, many years ago, so I wanted to see something of the old port etc., esp if the weather WERE better there (and it turns out, it was--no rain; I could walk around!). And I did not know how much time it would take to go to and from Augusta the next day, so that made me want even more to get to Portland early the first day. Also, if I took the Downeaster, I would not get to Portland till 7:30, and that was really kind of late for me to settle into the hotel and go downtown for a lobster roll for dinner. So, all in all, taking the bus was far more convenient. And since I knew I'd be taking the Downeaster southbound in a couple of days, I decided to do it. Finally, since it was raining, I thought there was a good chance I would not see much on the train anyway, because of fog. I don't know how that would have turned out--as noted, it was not raining much once we left Boston, and in Maine was no longer raining.
Anyway, in spite of all these various considerations, I would not have taken the bus if there were luggage storage facilities at Boston North. I would have gone there first, left my luggage there, and gone back to catch the 5PM train.
Also, I would have taken the Downeaster for sure if the times were more convenient. But even leaving NYP early, I did not get into Boston in time to catch the 11:05AM Downeaster, and the next one is not until 5PM, as noted!
Sorry about typing Aurora, Mike, I of course meant Auburn! I probably saw Aurora on some of the bus schedules I was perusing and got my usual typing dyslexia.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
Thanks, Soj, for your extensive elucidation of your experiences on the LSL. Very helpful. I notice that you don't have your PM icon activated so I have to respond here. I don't want to jijack Sunset's post any further so I come here. I notice that you reside upstate NY. I am thinking of relocating to Hudson in the not too distant future. AAMOF I am planning a visit this fall to Hudson, Boston and Lyncyburg VA (another possibility) to check out the territory. Do you have any wisdom about a decision to live in Hudson? The train service is v. attrative to me, of course. John
Posts: 326 | From: San Antonio Texas USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
Hudson is an old river town in Columbia County. It has some interesting Victorian urban architecture on its main drag, a very long street that runs from near the train/river to near the recently restored hotel, I think it is called Warren St. Of Warren there are nice homes, some with fine gardens--I once took a garden tour there. But there are also slummier streets. I am not completely sure about all my facts, but as I recall, back in the 1960s the local pols or some other local crooks got some federal money for building one or more housing projects, for which there then were shipped in impoverished tenants (many I had heard from Bridgeport CT!), some of whom became a very bad element. Plus no doubt there were some native poor folk too. Anyway, crime was a problem in the 1970s (as it was in many cities), and by the 1980s many in the middle class had moved out. But then the city's lovely 19C architecture (and cheap prices) were discovered by the gay community and other artistic types mainly from NYC, and many of them began moving in and restoring homes. There was some friction between old and new residents back in the 90s but I think that has eased quite a bit as the old guard moved or passed away. The city is now much more mixed, with a thriving arts community, good restaurants, and a fair amount of community spirit, as far as I can tell. It seems like a pretty good place for single people, gay or straight, for there is a lot of social activity for a city its size. Transportation to NYC is along the lovely Hudson but not cheap, even with Amtrak monthly passes, so if you are planning on going down there daily, that would be an expense. If you have a family, you might look into smaller communities nearby, Kinderhook is very nice (but tiny), Claverack ditto . . . but these are places where you will need to be driving here, there, and everywhere. I have no idea what the schools are like in any of these places any more.
If I were moving from Austin, I think I'd prefer Hudson to Lynchburg (though in truth I don't know much about Lynchburg), except for the weather. But must you live in Lynchburg proper? If it's not to your taste, what about Charlottesville? It's pretty close by, a very nice college town, the Crescent stops both ways, plus the Cardinal 3x a week, plus other buses to DC and one to Richmond too to catch other trains.
If the choice is Boston, Hudson, and Lynchburg, I think Boston would win hands down (but also be the most expensive; and it depends where in Boston you'd live, of course. I really like the North End and it might be affordable; also Charlestown by Bunker Hill, but maybe that is too pricey. . . .
But I think you should visit all these places, for sure. I really don't know Hudson that well, and Boston even less, and Lynchburg not at all.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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quote:Originally posted by City of Miami: Thanks, Soj, for your extensive elucidation of your experiences on the LSL. Very helpful. I notice that you don't have your PM icon activated so I have to respond here. I don't want to jijack Sunset's post any further so I come here. I notice that you reside upstate NY. I am thinking of relocating to Hudson in the not too distant future. AAMOF I am planning a visit this fall to Hudson, Boston and Lyncyburg VA (another possibility) to check out the territory. Do you have any wisdom about a decision to live in Hudson? The train service is v. attrative to me, of course. John
Not trying to compete with Sojourner's wonderful advice at all......just wanted to point out that later this year Lynchburg is due to get a state-supported second daily train to DC.......so there will be a better rail option than catching the Crescent at O DarK Thirty.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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