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Just back from my 4th of July weekend trip to the Big Bend country. The adventure actually began the day before departure, when the outer rain bands of Hurricane Alex lashed the Houston area with an estimated twelve inches of rainfall in two days. When that much water hits here all at once, there's no place for it to go except the streets. Many of the major thoroughfares around my house were blocked, and the feeder roads on many of the freeways were impassable. Fortunately the main lanes of the Gulf Freeway were still high and dry, so once we managed to reach the freeway system my parents had a clear shot into downtown.
My sister who was bringing my nephews, OTOH, had a rougher time of it. Since our usual downtown meeting and feeding station, the Spaghetti Warehouse, was closed due to street flooding she said that she would stop and feed the kids on the way. Unfortunately, all of the exits along her route were closed due to high water. Meantime, my parents and I had diverted to Birraporetti’s, an upscale downtown establishment catering to the after-theater crowd. We got a call from my sister saying that she had finally managed to get off the freeway at North Main St. (NOT one of the nicer parts of town) and had found a Whataburger. I told her she could come join us, but she had already ordered. However, she did take me up on my offer to join us for dessert before turning the boys over to us.
My parents dropped the three of us (myself; my nephew Cameron, age 15; his brother Benjamin, age 11) off at Houston's pathetic Amtrak station at 8:45. We did not have long to wait; the Sunset Limited pulled in a few minutes to the good just after nine o'clock. It appears that Amtrak is assigning coach seats now, at least during peak periods, which is probably to the good--it cuts down on the "every man grab a double seat for himself" mentality that the scrum for seats so often encouraged. My nephews were placed in 65 and 66 and I in 68 across the aisle, at the forward bulkhead of the first coach.
We pulled out of HOS on-time at 9:50 on the dot. This was my first trip with my new portable TomTom GPS, enabling me to track our departure. Unfortunately I had neglected to bring along any means of recharging it from a wall outlet, so I had to keep turning it off to save the battery. Our coach was a rebuilt S-1 Baggage-Coach which had been upgraded with 120V outlets at every seat--a welcome feature. I turned my portable movie player over to my nephews which kept them amused throughout the trip.
Breakfast was early the next morning, just after the diner opened at 6 a.m. Cameron and I had the cheese omelet, while Benjamin ordered the French toast. I was pleased to see bacon back on the breakfast menu; we all had a side of that as well.
Our breakfast companion was a gentleman named Chris; when we mentioned that we were going to Alpine he said that he was too...for one minute. Turns out that he had never been on a train before, and when on the spur of the moment he looked up Amtrak on line he found that the westbound Sunset Limited arrived Alpine at 1:24 p.m., followed immediately by the departing eastbound at 1:25 p.m. "The website wouldn't sell me a round-trip ticket, for some reason," he continued, "so I had to buy two separate one-way tickets." By this time my jaw was somewhere down around my navel as he continued, "I'm concerned that I might be cutting things a little close, though...do you think maybe I should get off at Sanderson and wait for the train there?"
I took the opportunity to educate Chris as to the Amtrak Facts Of Life, and doubly emphasized that he needed to go directly to the Conductor and Confess All, as Sanderson was/is a flag stop and that the eastbound Would Not Stop There unless they knew in advance from some official source that there was a passenger waiting. Some time thereafter the Conductor made an announcement that the train would be stopping in Sanderson to let one passenger off, so I hope that all ended well.
Hurricane Alex's reach extended well into West Texas by this point; many of the creeks and washes that we passed were in flood. There were numerous red signals as the rain wreaked havoc with track circuits, and we had to crawl through several blocks at restricted speed for fear of a washout (which, thankfully, never materialized). Even so, we were very close to schedule when we arrived at Alpine...although, as the only passing siding in the area is east of the town, we had to wait there until our opposite number eastbound (also on-time) cleared the station. Chris would have been Stuck Like Chuck for two nights.
Alpine is a very pretty little West Texas town. Home to Sul Ross State University, it is nonetheless 45 miles away from the nearest Wal-Mart (in Fort Stockton) and almost three hours' drive to the nearest shopping mall and commercial airport (Midland-Odessa). I had reserved a car through Alpine Auto Rental, who had promised to meet me at the Amtrak station. They were as good as their word; a lime-green Taurus was waiting for us at the station and the company agent was on hand to complete the paperwork. The car was in good condition and apparently well-maintained; however it was a 2001 model with 84000 miles on it. I didn't think too much of this until the trip back, but after seeing just how empty and barren West Texas is (there is ONE auto repair shop within 100 miles of our resort), I couldn't help but think that a burst heater hose or something similar on our way back could Ruin Your Whole Day. Fortunately, though, that never happened.
Next up: Lajitas Resort
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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The drive south from Alpine was uneventful; there was nothing of significance except a few widely separated ranch houses. The drive was fairly scenic, winding up through desert hills before opening up onto a broad plain which stretched for many miles until we reached the mountains of Big Bend. There is a small town, Study Butte, at the split for Big Bend and Lajitas which boasts the only schools, fire station, and auto service facilities in the region. A little to the west is the ghost town of Terlingua, known around the world to chili aficionados, and then it is twelve more miles to Lajitas.
Lajitas was founded as a border town in the late 19th century. It boasts the best natural crossing of the Rio Grande (a solid rock river bottom) between Del Rio and El Paso. For a while it was a port of entry with a customs house, and Pancho Villa was active in the area in the early 20th century. This prompted the US Government to dispatch General "Blackjack" Pershing to the area, and a cavalry post was built. In the 1980s a motel was built upon the original foundations of the cavalry post, and this (rebuilt and modernized) was later incorporated into the Lajitas Resort.
Lajitas resort claims ownership of 27,000 acres along the Rio Grande between the adjacent Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park. It features an airport suitable for private jets, several levels of accommodation ranging from very nice to luxurious, an RV park, the only swimming pools in the Big Bend region (two of them), two restaurants, a saloon with occasional live entertainment, a fitness center and spa, and a general store and deli with a good selection of canned goods and sundries and a very limited offering of fresh meat and veggies. Some of the resort accommodations feature full kitchens but the nearest supermarket is a hundred miles away in Alpine so stock up in advance if you plan on doing your own cooking.
The resort was also well known for its famous "Ambush" golf course along the banks of the Rio Grande. Too close to the Rio Grande, as it turns out...in September 2008 a tropical storm dumped a "500 year flood" into west Texas and northern Mexico which washed away all but three holes of the "Ambush" course. However, the resort is now well along with construction of its all-new "Black Jack's Crossing" (named after Gen. Pershing) 18 hole championship golf course designed by Lanny Wadkins; the grand opening for this course is scheduled for October 2010. The remains of the original "Ambush" course are being reworked into an "executive" golf course for leisure golfers and practice.
We checked in and settled in to our rooms at the Cavalry Post. The room was large and nicely furnished with two queen beds and extra-thick mattresses plus a refrigerator and coffeemaker. On the down side there was no desk or table to sit at and only one electrical outlet was free, which is completely inadequate by 21st century standards. (It should be noted that the resort's pricier accommodations are much better equipped.) However, the resort does offer free wi-fi in every room and the Cavalry Post is convenient to the swimming pool, which the kids welcomed.
We were also pleased with the food at the Candelilla Cafe; the salmon I had on the first night was seasoned and cooked just right and the fajitas I had for lunch the second day were likewise delicious. The kids, for their part, were favorably impressed by the cafe as well. The prices were on the high side but keep in mind that this is back of beyond; there's no restaurant supply store across the street (or even within 80 miles). In addition, we were able to take in the scenery; the cafe is built with full glass walls and overlooks the golf course and Rio Grande. The view is spectacular.
We signed up for a half-day river trip through Far Flung Outdoor Center in Study Butte; they picked us up at the resort and drove us into the state park for a three-mile trip down the river in canoes and kayaks. Even with the rain (which was still mostly down river of us) the river was very low; there were places where you could walk from Texas to Mexico in shorts and not get your pants wet. My canoe got hung up on the rocks more than once. Far Flung took good care of us, with one guide leading the pack and another trailing behind. About half way down the river we stopped for a very nice morning snack of cheese and crackers, carrots and pimento dip, and cookies. We were back at the resort in time for lunch.
After lunch we drove back into "town" (Terlingua/Study Butte), visited a couple of stores, and then drove on into the National Park. We made it into the Basin where the Chisos Mountain Lodge is located, but on our way back out we were hit with some torrential rains. That evening we had a nice dinner at the Starlight Theater in the Terlingua ghost town.
Next up: The trip home
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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Excellent report! This is one of the few parts of the west I have never seen. Are there any cautionary issues about being close to the border in a somewhat remote area? I tend to do a lot of exploring. Is Lajitas crowded as a winter getaway?
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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On my last Suunset trip (maybe 2005) I remember Alpine, TX as looking like a town I would like to linger in for a bit....... but maybe one night, not two or three. Darned Tri-Weekly schedules.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Eric, other than west Texas as viewed from the Sunset, that part of our country has escaped our transcon wanderings. Thanks for the information, it'll be on our next auto trip west.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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quote:Originally posted by TwinStarRocket: Excellent report! This is one of the few parts of the west I have never seen. Are there any cautionary issues about being close to the border in a somewhat remote area? I tend to do a lot of exploring. Is Lajitas crowded as a winter getaway?
If there have been any cross-border incidents I haven't heard about them, but I never felt uncomfortable in the area. Please note that any entry to the Rio Grande requires a permit (if you book through an established agency like Far Flung, they will handle this for the group).
While I can't consider myself an expert on this I would think that the lay of the land is not favorable for drug runners and the like. The only major highway in the area, State Hwy. 118, runs due north for 80 miles (and past a Border Patrol station) before it reaches the next opportunity to branch out (US Hwy. 90). If I were moving contraband, I would seek out one of the many sections where a major east-west highway parallels the border so that I could jump on in, blend in, and disappear. (This is all purely theoretical, you know.)
Bottom line is that the kids and I felt comfortable at all times and I saw no sign that we should feel otherwise. I would make the trip again in a heartbeat.
Winter (October-March) is the prime season for Lajitas, for obvious reasons. The normal daily high temperature in July averages about 110, but thanks to Hurricane Alex our visit was in the high 70s-mid 80s. We did miss the chance to view the night sky due to the heavy overcast, though.
While I haven't studied the resort's occupancy levels, I would think that even in high season you should be able to find space, albeit at a somewhat higher price (we paid $99/night for our Cavalry Post room with a summer-only promotional rate; the suites and deluxe condos would be a good bit higher). So do keep the place in mind as a getaway when Zip 5 ices over.
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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I have land in Terlingua ranch, and go down there 3-4 times a year.
The entire Mexican side of that area is extremely inhospitable, with minimal roads and very long distances between very small towns. Drug runners and coyotes stand out like sore thumbs. The entire area in not conducive for illegal activity. There is no easy in-and-out down there.
My wife & I love the area.
Posts: 1418 | From: Houston, Republic of Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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quote:Originally posted by notelvis: On my last Suunset trip (maybe 2005) I remember Alpine, TX as looking like a town I would like to linger in for a bit....... but maybe one night, not two or three. Darned Tri-Weekly schedules.
While you might see Alpine in a day, you could find enough in Big Bend to occupy you for a week or even longer. The two big outfitters, Far Flung Outdoor Center and Big Bend River Tours, offer a variety of hiking, river, and Jeep/ATV tours from half-day (what we took) up to seven nights in length. There are numerous artists who have made the area home, and many art galleries and curio shops which feature their work. In addition to the facilities I mentioned above the Lajitas resort also has an equestrian center offering trail rides, riding lessons, and horse boarding as well as a 650 acre hunting ranch with lodge and skeet shooting range. So there is enough to do to keep you busy for about as long as you want.
My recommendations if you are considering a visit to the area: If you want and can budget for luxury and would like a variety of activities to keep you occupied, stay at Lajitas. If you want to stay in the midst of the mountains and do mostly hiking and outdoor exploration, stay at the Chisos Mountain Lodge within Big Bend National Park. If you are on a tight budget or just need a pit stop to crash in between planned tours with one of the local outfitters, stay in one of the motels in Study Butte. Regardless of which way you go, though, you will not regret the trip.
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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The motels in Study Butte are low end Motel 6 rooms for $90 a night. They have a rather high opinion of their rooms, and a rather low idea on how to maintain/clean them.
Posts: 1418 | From: Houston, Republic of Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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I just passed them; did not stop to see. I'll take your word for it. Lajitas was clean enough, though.
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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Good writing, Eric-- really fueled my own western wanderlust. Like others here, I've really wanted to see the Big Bend on a trip like you have made. Too bad the skies weren't clear- as you know, this part of West Texas boasts some of the clearest skies in the whole contiguous states-- really breathtaking, even from the windows of a night Sunset Limited.
Did you know about Sul Ross University's most famous alumnus-- Dan Blocker? Think he studied one of the "outdoor" sciences, before he went on to Hollywood and fame as Hoss Cartwright in Bonanza.
I've also never had a bad meal anywhere in Texas. Always wanted to hit the Terlingua cook-off. And the best Mexican food I've ever had in my life was at an all-night joint on the Riverwalk in San Antonio. I am even thinking of picking up stakes (here in CA) and moving to TX-- for many, many reasons. Thanks for the trip report, Eric.
Posts: 588 | From: East San Diego County, CA | Registered: Oct 2004
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Chisos Mountain Lodge would be my first choice for lodging down there and Lajitas would be my second choice. Terlingua Ranch has a "resort" (two beds, a small dresser, two windows, and a full bath, ONLY!) and RV spots, but it is 16 miles off of Hwy 118.
Posts: 1418 | From: Houston, Republic of Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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