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I haven't been over to the States for two or three years now due to the economic situation, but I have a big chunk of miles on my frequent flyer. In fact I've got nearly enough for two round-trips and if I converted the points on my hotel loyalty cards to airmiles I'd just about be there.
The possibly future mrs williams has never been to the States. She loves the idea of California and my beloved Pismo Beach, and having seen my mass of photo albums also of a train trip. I had the CZ in mind as that's an obvious no-brainer for a first-time visitor but she mentioned that she'd like to see New Orleans.
I went through NOL on the Westbound Sunset three or four months before Katrina. As NOL was a three hour stop-over in those days several of us were planning to jump in a taxi and have a quick spin around the city. Unfortunately we got into NOL over two hours late and we had time for nothing more than stretching our legs so I never got to see it myself.
Considering that the Sunset has traditional been one of the "cheaper" routes for a long-distance sleeper and not that bad a run I've been formulating the idea of flying into NOL and spending a day or two there before taking the SL to LA and going up the coast on the Surfliner, before a couple of days in Reno or SF before flying home from SFO.
The question is, of course, what state is the Big Easy in, nowadays? The utter devastation of Katrina was well-reported over here but what is the tourist zone like nowadays and how much has been rebulit?
(hang on, Reno might not be that good a plan.....don't want to put ideas into her head!!!)
Posts: 395 | From: england | Registered: Sep 2002
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Well, I can not speak from first-hand experience. So my information is hearsay as well as information from friends who have visited there within the last year. From what I'm told, the French Quarter area is very nice and is pretty much back to "normal". However, once you get outside of the main touristy areas, you run into problems. The devastation goes on for miles and miles and miles----it seems never-ending. So much of New Orleans has not been rebuilt (yet Mississippi was hit very hard, and they rebuilt very quickly. That's a political topic, so I'll avoid that one).
If it were me and I was to travel to New Orleans, I would stay strictly within the tourist areas where there are lots of people. I would NEVER EVER stray outside of that area.....especially at night. Crime is high---very high---and there are some dangerous characters in that town. Yes, every big city has crime, but the area just outside of the French Quarter I am told is especially bad.
Maybe someone who has been there in-person can give better info.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
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Sadly that's always been the message - all the guidebooks advise not even straying one block outside the tourist area and taking a taxi for even the shortest journeys.
Posts: 395 | From: england | Registered: Sep 2002
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I was in New Orleans in March 2009. Personally, I found it OK but nothing special. By day, I did not feel quite as unsafe as I expected to from the rumors you hear (and those rumors did make me nervous); I did not venture in the real non-touristy areas but I was in the French Quarter and adjoining Faubourg (on Frenchman St where the music is) as well as the Garden District (where the streetcar goes--taking the streetcar was my favorite thing I did) and a bit in the regular downtown near the French Quarter. By night, it's irritating (and expensive) going to a place where you have to take so many taxis. There are many good restaurants but they are also expensive. . . . and it rains a LOT. When I was there, it rained every day. Also, it is mobbed with spring breakers most of the time. So it is not the number one place I'd recommend, unless music is your number one thing--the music is very very good--and you want to party a lot--and if so, be very careful with your wallets and purses. I took a taxi to Tipitina's, for example, and wound up not dancing very much because I didn't know what to do with my purse. (Other people I know have had theirs stolen when they put it down, not at Tipitina's, but right in the French Quarter. . . . )
But also, you have to consider when you are going. The best time for a train trip on the CA Zephyr is when the days are long. And New Orleans is very hot and humid then.
I simply loved Santa Barbara, which Frank here can tell you more about, and San Diego (including Coronado Island)--were you planning on including those in your California trip?
Here is what I would recommend, if you can take the time: Fly to Washington DC in mid to late May (before it gets too hot), spend a couple of days there. Then Cap Ltd to Chicago, a great city, spend a couple of days there. Then CA Zephyr to Sacramento or Emeryville, spend 1 night there. Then do San Francisco if you are interested. Then Coast Starlight or the inland route to San Luis Obispo for Pismo (it was you who told me about how to take buses there, Mr Williams!!! and I thank you very much), continue on the Surfliner with a few nights in Santa Barbara (one of the nicest places in the USA, Frank can tell you more), then Pacific Surfliner down to San Diego for a few nights, then back up to LA in the early morning so you can do a walkabout downtown (avoid Sunday) before leaving on the SW Chief for Williams AZ and a visit to the Grand Canyon (RR) OR Flagstaff, from where you can rent a car to visit all kinds of cool SW places. Then, if you rented a car, look into where you can drop it off to fly home or, if not, continue back to Chicago and fly home from there.
The SW terrain of AZ and NM is really pretty spectacular and "different"; I would think your fiancee would like it, no?
Anyway, whatever you do, have a good time!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I know Santa Barbara very well Ms Sojourner - I've sampled the delights of Stearn's Wharf and State Street on several occasions!
I don't really fancy NOL myself, and I think I could probably talk SWMBO into an alternative especially if I tell her about one hundred degree heat and humidity.
Bearing in mind she's not used to train journeys of more than a few hours I don't want to risk exposing her to more than one/two nights on the train in case we have a bad experience.
My choice would be fly into Denver or Chicago, CZ to Reno, then SFO, Pismo, Santa Barbara and fly out of LAX
Posts: 395 | From: england | Registered: Sep 2002
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I think also if you only have so much time, Mrs Williams-to-Be may not realize New Orleans is nowhere near California . . . it's like going to England and then making a quick stop in Turkey, if you know what I mean? But I don't want to give the impression I don't like New Orleans; I do; just nothing super special. OTOH, what appeals to me may not appeal to you--if Santa Barbara is one of my most favorite places that I've visited in the US, Reno probably would be at the very bottom of my list. I thought watching all those people at the slot machines, and the pawn shops everywhere, and seeing what must have once been a cute little western town ruined with those awful casinos, was the most depressing thing in the world.
But I did find Salt Lake City rather interesting; have you thought of stopping there?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I will be spending a week in NOLA in less than a month and I have no intention of sticking to the 'tourist' areas - I usually avoid them! However, I'm sure I'll visit Cafe de Monde at least once. I'll be taking #2 over but not #1 back because it gets into San Antonio at an unacceptable hour, i.e. no public transit operating. Assuming that I survive the perils of The Big Easy, I'll give you a current update on the state of the city.
Posts: 326 | From: San Antonio Texas USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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mr williams....Your itinerary sounds good, but I just wanted to let you know about Reno. First of all, the best hotel choice would be Harrah's. Their rates are very reasonable, and the hotel is super clean and they maintain it very well.
However, Reno sure has changed in the last few years. It seems like a ghost town. You sure won't have to wait in line for anything, that's for sure. Fitzgerald's (large hotel/casino) is shut down and dark, with a chain lock around all of the doors. Half of the Cal-Neva hotel is closed and dark. Many of the shops along the main roadway through downtown Reno are empty and are for lease. The recession has really hit Reno hard. It was shocking to see, as I have visited Reno a number of times over the years.
I don't know if it's possible, but if you could somehow swing a visit to Las Vegas, that would be a lot better. If you've never been there, The Strip is absolutely mind-boggling. You can travel to France, Italy, and many other places as you walk from hotel to hotel. There are free shows on The Strip, such as the exploding volcano in front of Mirage, the fountain show in front of Bellagio, the "Sirens" show in front of Treasure Island, the fountain show inside of Caesar's Palace---all for free.
But if that's not possible and you'll stick to Reno (which makes sense since you'll be coming in on the California Zephyr), then Harrah's Hotel is your best best. When you exit the train (which is recessed down in "the trench"), you take the elevator upstairs to street level, and when you walk out the front door, you are standing next to Harrah's. You don't need a taxi or anything---it's right there.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
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Reno is another place I know well! I'm surprised to hear about Fitzgerald's - I always felt sorry for that poor bloke who had to stand outside dressed as a leprechaun handing out flyers.
I know Reno has limited appeal in itself, but it is a good base for touring. There is a bus company that does an excellent all-day trip around Lake Tahoe, Donner Pass and Virginia City etc.
The beer from the microbrewery in Brew Brothers in The Eldorado is the best I've ever drunk in the States.
As for accommodation, I always stay at The Sands Regency. Two blocks off the main strip, a bit grottier and rather more blue-collar but a very friendly atmosphere and more importantly - they don't just comp me a room they comp me a SUITE!!!
Posts: 395 | From: england | Registered: Sep 2002
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I agree about Harrah's, it was a huge bargain when I was there. But I was on a high floor, and wind whistled the whole time. The food at every venue I went to in Harrahs was simply awful. The lobby was more like a bus terminal--no place to sit unless you want to sit at a slot machine, except for the one refuge, the little computer room! Also, I took the bus company tour offered to the places you mention. They stopped too briefly at the cute Cal-Neva on Lake Tahoe, never stopped at all in Truckee (which would have been nice) and instead dropped us for nearly 3 hours at Harrah's in South Lake Tahoe, not down by the lake (and it's a longish walk) and spent pretty limited time in Virginia City, only about 1 1/2 hours. The bus-tour passengers other than me who got off the bus--a bowling team from the Midwest-- spent all their time in South Lake Tahoe eating breakfast at the other Harrahs and sitting at slot machines! Like I said, it was depressing.
OTOH, I took the public commuter bus (very inexpensive) from Reno to Carson City, which was cute and not too tacky-touristy. The bus runs on weekdays only, and a lot of the public buildings in Carson City are closed Mondays and maybe Sundays or Tuesdays, so check on that if you go. There was a nice area of private homes to walk around in, Mark Twain's brother once lived in one. And there was an excellent Thai restaurant called Basils. The only problem was the bus runs only in commuter hours, so you have to hang out in CC until the first bus back . . . but if you go when the museum, public buildings, etc., are open, and take the self-guided walking tour of the nice homes mentioned (assuming good weather; you can contact the tourist office in CC to get a map in advance--I'm sure they'd even send it to England) you should have enough things to do. The bus also goes past this really fascinating highway bridge they are building, quite treacherous for the workers, I have heard. . .
I also meant to say--I think crime may be a problem in Reno too. Policemen greeted our train (westbound Zephyr) at the station, and there was a tent city with mind boggling poverty right downtown by the stadium. In the evening it was so seedy I just didn't bother going out (I was traveling solo, and female).
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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New Orleans is a unique and wonderful city, especially if you enjoy good food and interesting architecture/music. I would absolutely recommend stopping in NOL on your way to Nevada. Since Southwest Airlines flies into New Orleans as well as Reno, it should be easy and cheap to do. The contrast between New Orleans and the American west should help you enjoy both.
I was in NOL about a year after Katrina and still enjoyed it. Be sure and ride the streetcars, especially the St. Charles line.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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My still-employed Amtrak friends use the letters "BK and AK" to refer to the New Orleans before and after Katrina. Thanks to hard working locals such as Harry Connick, Jr., the place is coming back as the other posters have said. It'll probably never get back to its old 500,000 + numbers; some of the "refugees" who left may never come back. Houston is hosting many of them, according to my Texas friends.
I'd give NOL a thumbs-up for tourism, Mr. Williams. Some of the best street musicians in the world and there's no need to comment on the gastronomic delights of N'awlins. Crime-wise, yes but if you can handle London you'll be fine. I once went out to Brixton and had no problems-- just be street-smart. As to the true "no-go" areas, the "Cemeteries" aren't too safe after dark; the Desire projects, some of the outlying areas- Algiers, places on the other side of the big steel bridges, non-tourist areas, you've got the idea. But still the place is one of America's jewels; a bit tarnished but with a lot of heart. Too bad you can't take the "Streetcar named Desire" anymore- that's a bus now. As Sojourner says- please ride the 'Car up through the Garden District to the end-of-line, and return for a marvelous, back-in-time adventure, complete with the sharp smell of ozone from the catenary sparking. For a truly awesome breakfast, try the Camellia Grill near Streetcar Stop #44-- trust me on this one. Be sure to order the grits- these folks will give you the real thing along with some steaming chicory coffee. Best of travels to you, Mr. W... Posts: 588 | From: East San Diego County, CA | Registered: Oct 2004
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I had the chili omelet at the Camellia Grill when I visited in January '08. Sucker was HUGE; must have been made with no less than six eggs. They asked me if I wanted the chili on the omelet or on the side, in a bowl. I opted for it on top, but it would have easily filled a good-size bowl on the side. I couldn't eat even half of it, and as Mr. Norman can now testify I'm pretty good at socking away the vittles.
If you've never been there, the Camellia is an old-fashioned counter service only diner--no tables, no booths. Just a counter with stools, plus some benches on the back wall for patrons waiting for a stool to open up. I understand that there is normally a line, but the morning I arrived I just walked right in; the place was only about half full.
I will definitely eat there again if I make another extended stop in 'Nawlins.
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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quote:Originally posted by ehbowen: I had the chili omelet at the Camellia Grill when I visited in January '08. Sucker was HUGE; must have been made with no less than six eggs.
I o/n-ed in Chicago some years ago prior to taking the SWC and I decided to have an omelet for breakfast in the hotel, having forgotten the size of American portions.
The omelet was the size of Minnesota, and I'm not exaggerating when I say it came with what must have been a whole pound of fried potatoes, a huge salad and two enormous chunks of melon.
It would have fed two comfortably!
Posts: 395 | From: england | Registered: Sep 2002
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Thanks guys for backing me up on the Camellia Grill. All true about those omelets. The waiters are part of the experience, too. Most of 'em have got some serious seniority. I used to get served by a guy named "Bat" who had close to or more than 50 years there! They don't serve any margarines or "non-dairy" spreads there, either- don't go asking for that! Here everything is old-fashioned full fat full cream full butter--
...and that's why it all tastes so GOOD!
Gotta live a little from time to time, eh guys?
Posts: 588 | From: East San Diego County, CA | Registered: Oct 2004
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I second not visiting Reno and Harrah's, we were there about a year ago. The room was behind a bank of 4 elavators that sounded like the L-train going through every minute all night long. There was a mechanical problem with the room also, maintenance was cut back. It took some prodding to get a room change the next morning. The buffet was overpriced for the quality, the coffee shop was better. Stay at the Peppermill about 3 miles south of downtown on Virginia Street and the food was much better. Better yet go to Vegas, just got back from there last night, it was fine.
Posts: 15 | From: Mke, WI, USA | Registered: Jun 2003
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There is absolutely no perceivable problem in this area in New Orleans, Mr. Williams. I'm just back from a week in NOLA and in addition to my personal experience I read in the newspaper that NOLA didn't even make the top TEN of dangerous cities in USA - that list was topped by St. Louis and Camden. I walked everywhere freely with abandon and never once felt anxious, insecure or threatened in anyway. "Everywhere" includes, the Quarter, Garden District, Uptown, Midcity, Marigny, Bywater, Treme, Audubon Park, City Park, et al. I was in Armstrong Park and Bourbon St. at midnight: No Problem. I didn't see a single assault weapon. The few police I noticed were armed with handguns. People are very friendly and almost all of the devastation from Katrina is gone - this in marked contrast to my last visit in '07. There is still a diminished population. Public transit (which is poor), for example, is back up to only 1/3 of pre-Katrina levels (I read this in the newspaper). The food is uniformly outstanding - I will refrain from listing my gluttony over the week! Anyway, no one should deprive themselves of the Crescent City experience because of concern for personal safety.
Posts: 326 | From: San Antonio Texas USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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Here everything is old-fashioned full fat full cream full butter--
