posted
I have a question for you...just getting started on my model. What is your opion on track. Is it better to use nickle or ??? Would different kinds of trains or landscapeing like hills, etc. require different kinds? Or even if I want to run a high speed train vs freight?
Any thoughts you have on this would be appreciated!
Darin
Posts: 26 | From: Loveland, Colorado, USA | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Also, what would be a good incline in inches? Like...for every 6 inches of track, I can go how many inches in incline?
Posts: 26 | From: Loveland, Colorado, USA | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Walthers, Atlas, and Micro Engineering nickel silver track are very good. (All HO scale)
Posts: 579 | From: San Bernardino Subdivison | Registered: Dec 2001
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quote:Originally posted by SneakyHusband: Also, what would be a good incline in inches? Like...for every 6 inches of track, I can go how many inches in incline?
I think a good rule of thumb is to go up about 1" for every 36" of linear track max. If memory serves me correctly, that will be about the equivalent of a 3% grade. If the grade gets much steeper than that, the trains will need extra engines to pull up, and will tend to bounce against the gears comiong down. Also most important, avoid vertical curves, both at the bottom of the grade and at the top. If you use plywood for your subroadbed, don't butt two pieces together at the top or bottom of a grade. If you have a piece of plywood firmly fastened to the benchwork at the bottom of a grade, and then bend it up to make your grade, then bend it back to level at the top of the grade, you will get nice transitions into and out of the grade. If your grade is too long for one piece of plywood, you can butt them together in the middle of the grade. If you don't pay attention to transitions from level to grade, and back to level again, and you use knuckle couplers like Kaddee's or the various "Kaddee knockoffs" you will have trains coming uncoupled in the hills.
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One comment on couplers. If you are going to run long trains, the Kaddee couplers will work much better than the plastic knock offs. I've found that all of the others tend to stretch out and uncouple when pulling long heavy trains. Some of the McHenry's may be ok because they have a metal spring instead of the plastic leaf spring to hold the knuckle closed.
Posts: 70 | From: Lakewood, California, U.S.A. | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Thanks for the help! I am getting ready to make some major changes! Just moved the entire layout and I am not sure wheather I am coming or going. lol
posted
All metal track ages with oxidation. Steel rusts; brass and NS oxidize differently. Brass oxidation is an insulator, so brass rail needs frequent scrubbing. NS oxidation is a conductor, so it ages more gracefully. Nothing protects rail from ravages of paint, so be careful painting or you'll be scrubbing afterwards!
Posts: 11 | From: Eagle Rock, VA, USA | Registered: Apr 2003
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