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Thanks for all your comments regarding my first post about my trip. Continuing with my travelogue:
I stayed two days in Victoria--in fact, at the Best Western that you recommended, David. It was excellent, moderately priced, and just a few steps from the Victoria Clipper that brought me there and the bus on which I would leave. Victoria is a lovely city, great for walking. I also enjoyed the museum (which, train lady, is not unlike the Museum of Civilization in Ottawa/Hull, if you haven't been) and found an excellent used book store (Russell Books) and had tea at the Empress, which I think some of you also recommended here. I suppose it was overpriced, but since I spent little on other meals, I decided to splurge, and it was much fun.
I left Victoria on a rainy day, taking the Pacific Coach lines bus that goes on the BC Ferry to Vancouver. Because of the rain, the ride was not visually exciting, but when I arrived at the Hotel Vancouver downtown, the rain had stopped, so I was able to walk to my hotel. And what a very nice city Vancouver is--attractive, cosmopolitan, liveable, really making the most of its geographic situation. And with fantabulous restaurants and parks. Wonderful for walking.
On my second day there, my friend flew out to join me, and on the third we left for our Alaska cruise on Holland America. It was the first time I'd ever been on a cruise and I never expected to like it as much as I did. But it was simply wonderful. The staff and service, the food, the many travelers from all over the world (especially Australia and Britain)--everything was simply splendid. Well, except for the entertainment, much of which was not to my taste--but it didn't matter, we never had time to go to those nightly shows anyway. The scenery was the show! Going in May was a splendid time, it was light till nearly 11. We had purchased the cheapest cabin (all I could afford) but were upgraded to another, still interior but on a higher floor--I was glad of that. Ours rooms were very comfortable at night, and being on the interior didn't matter much because we were hardly ever there, there are so many lounges and decks and other public areas from which the views are better than the rooms. And the views were spectacular. We sailed Tracy Arm and Glacier Park and made stops in Juneau, Ketchikan, and Skagway. While the first two are no big deal, Juneau is near Mendenhall Glacier, a must-see. And as for Skagway, the White Pass-Yukon RR was a highlight of the trip--spectacular scenery. On the day we took it, we went only as far as Fraser BC, but that was OK, it still gave us the flavor of the change from coastal Alaska to the snowy interior. I was so glad we went in May, too, when, there was a lot of snow still, even though the day was pleasant and sunny. . . .
The cruise returned us to Vancouver, from which my friend flew home, and I took the train to Seattle. I was a little sorry I hadn't booked to stay overnight in Vancouver instead of training to Seattle and overnighting there, but that would have meant taking a bus, and I really wanted to ride that route, not to mention ride a Taglo. I liked the Vancouver train station, and the ride was excellent (though surprisingly noisy! I had to play music the whole trip), and because it was late May, it was light almost the whole way. I especially loved the part around White Rock, near the border, where maybe 100 bald eagles were flying along the train--almost like they were US customs!
I arrived about 15 minutes late in Seattle, took a taxi, and returned to Pioneer Square. The next day I checked out of my hotel but checked my luggage with the concierge (as I often do) and set out to see more of Seattle before my train left, trying to change my bad impression of the city to no avail--it is definitely the most disappointing city I've visited on my travels thus far--though the people are nice enough. I did return to the Pike's Market, which I liked, for a nice late lunch before heading back to the hotel to collect my luggage and take a taxi to the Amtrak Station.
The Empire Builder home was in some ways not as nice as heading out--less interesting collection of people, and definitely not as good food. I missed having an observation car for the first portion but my sleeper was on the right side for seeing Puget Sound. I was better able to appreciate the Cascades Tunnel on this return trip too, I'm not sure why. But at dinner the first night, the much-touted salmon special was dry as bone. They also had something on the menu called turkey tenderloins that was an absolutely disgusting pressed meat affair--God knows what was in it. Also something called iron steak that others said was tough, and a big boring half chicken, and dry cod. So on the second night I opted for the special, a meat pie of some sort, which was tasty enough. The wine tasting the second day did not have as good a wine selection as on my trip west, but the scenery was as excellent as before, and the times less risky for seeing it. And though we left a half hour late and were at times nearly an hour late, we made it all up and were nearly on time by the time we left Minneapolis. The run down the Mississippi was especially pleasant, and we arrived in Chicago just 10 minutes late, which again gave me plenty of time to do my walkabout.
When I returned to Union Station, some people were saying that the Lakeshore Ltd would be late leaving because the crew hadn't had enough rest. But in the end we left nearly on time. Dinner, though the new lite menu, was excellent--I again had the pork shanks, or maybe it was lamb shanks, I forget. And yummy NY cheesecake. My sleeper was very comfortable--really, the Viewliners are more comfortable that the Superliners--and when I awoke and went to breakfast, we were less than an hour late coming into Buffalo. But then the CSX track delays started . . . I think we went about 5 miles an hour between Rochester and Syracuse, NY . . . the train wound up 3 hours late into Albany. Oh, well, I didn't mind, it was still afternoon, but I felt bad for the Boston-bound, who would be arriving annoyingly late.
So, that was my trip--all pretty wonderful. And I did it all fairly inexpensively too, buying my tickets far in advance. Except for Seattle, I'd go back to all of it in a New York minute. Or do I mean a Vancouver minute????
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Great trip report Sojourner. I had vague memories of suggesting the Best Western in Victoria but was not sure if it had been to you or someone else.
I too wish that it was possible to ride the talgo between Vancouver and Seattle without having to overnight in Seattle. Perhaps the next time I go that direction I'll overnight in Portland and then take the talgo up to Seattle for an eastbound Empire Builder.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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really interesting report. I wish I were with you. We thought the Empress tea was too expensive for us so we had tea at the Chrystal Gardens. rhe seting was lovely. why didn't you like Seattle? I enjoyed it and would go back again. Yes I know the museum in Ottawa/Hull . Thinking about all the museaums we have seen across Canada I must say they do a terrific job.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Seattle used to be one of my favorite cities but the "grunge" factor seems to have taken over, especially downtown. There is still a lot to do but I don't think I'd plan on an extended amount of time there anymore.
Victoria has been a favorite city since I was a kid visiting my great aunt and uncle at their home on the outskirts. I can even remember sailing from Seattle to Victoria on the old CP (Canadian Pacific) Princess Marguerite.
Don't you love cruising? We just did an 8 night transatlantic trip and are already looking for our next cruise. Look for the "repositioning" trips. That's what our was and the rate was about 60% off the rate listed on the Celebrity website.
Frank in, finally today, sunny SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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I know what you mean, Train Lady, the price of tea for 2 at the Empress would have been pretty ridiculous. However, for 1, I decided to splurge--and they did include a take-home tin of tea as part of the price, which made a nice gift for a friend.
Frank, was that cruise on the Queen Mary? I thought you said that you got a special deal because of being family of an airline worker. Or am I mixing things up with something someone else posted? Anyway, the repositioning trips I've found so far are too high priced for me--not that they are overpriced, if you figure out the price per day, but the price is higher because they are longer cruises. However, I'm seriously considering one of those Ft Lauderdale round trips that do a partial Panama Canal cruise on Holland America. I really liked Holland America, and I am interested in seeing Curacao as well as Costa Rica and the canal, and their cruise stops at all three.
David, I'm trying to avoid too much time in Seattle if I go do that Rocky Mountaineer/Banff trip next year, but since I've decided to go with Amtrak (I should have a lot of points) I will at least have to go through the city again. And the friend I was meeting wanted to meet in Seattle (she's never been, and she's been to Victoria twice and Vancouver more than once). We had been planning to meet in Seattle and then next day catch the early morning train to Vancouver. If I do have to stay more than overnight in Seattle, I'll try to take some kind of tour outside the city, maybe Mt McKinley or to the Boeing museum.
I was thinking I'd take the Zephyr out, change in Sacramento for the Coast Starlate to Eugene, overnight there, then take a Cascades train next day to get to Seattle. But maybe I could go earlier, take the Cascades to Seattle and catch either a bus to Vancouver or the ferry to Victoria all in the same day, spend some time in Victoria (perhaps going to and from Vancouver), and meet her in Vancouver a couple of days later. Hmmm. . . . have to see how that works . . . The price of the Victoria hotel on top of everything we plan to do on the mainland might be too much for me.
Plus, a lot of Canadians on the cruise were telling me to visit Whistler when next in Vancouver area. Has anyone been there? Any input on that, or on that tourist train now going there? Would it be a possible day trip from Vancouver?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Nice to hear that you enjoyed the new menu on the Lake Shore. I guess they're getting better at it. If only they could avoid using plastic/paper plates. Yes,cruising vacations are always wonderful. You unpack your bags and enjoy the rest of the trip. And worth it dollar wise. I hope my next sailing will be on the Queen Mary 2 for a trans-Atlantic jaunt. But Great Britain is expensive because of the exchange rate. I'm still hoping though.
Posts: 498 | From: New Hope, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Sojourner - yes I have been to Whistler, but it was on a ski trip a few years ago and we went there by bus from the Vancouver airport. However, many years ago, I did ride British Columbia Rail (now defunct) from Prince George to North Vancouver -- that service no longer exists, and back then (1983 or so) it was basically a Budd rail car or two, but nevertheless was a nice trip. I do not know anything about the new tourist train which goes to Whistler.
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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quote:Originally posted by RRRICH: I do not know anything about the new tourist train which goes to Whistler.
All I have heard is that there is supposed to be some sort of pricey tourist oriented service to be run by Rocky Mountaineer.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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Our trip was on the Celebrity Constellation. We did get a great rate ($600.00 each for a Concierge Class Verandah Cabin) through Perx.com which does require at least one pax to be an employee or retiree of an airline. The same rate, though, was available through ecruises.com which is available to anyone. There are lots of much shorter "repositioning" cruises. I just saw a one night "Dine and Dance" trip from Seattle to Vancouver that starts at $49 pp and goes up to $149 pp for a Deluxe Cabin.
20th Century--
Britain really has become very expensive. Continental Breakfast at our hotel (Which was, luckily, included in our room rate) was the equivalent of $25.00 US and the full English Breakfast was $36.00. There was a huge Sainsbury's supermarket down the street and we used it as a source of sandwiches, cheese, take-away food and pretty reasonably priced wine.
The "London Walks" tours are still a bargain at 6 pounds each or 5 if you are a "SuperAdult" or buy the "Walkabout" card which costs 1 pound and starts saving you a pound on your third tour. We did three -- Jack the Ripper, British Museum and Royal Secrets.
We also bought the three day transit pass which is good on the tube, the DLR, busses and some river craft. And we used the Gatwick Express from Victoria Station (What a busy place!) to Gatwick Airport. The promised airline discount didn't happen but it was a quick, easy way to get from Central London to the airport.
Frank in already (at 8:49AM) SUNNY SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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quote:Originally posted by RRRICH: I do not know anything about the new tourist train which goes to Whistler.
All I have heard is that there is supposed to be some sort of pricey tourist oriented service to be run by Rocky Mountaineer.
This is correct. The Rocky Mountaineer folks debuted a new tourist operation last month from North Vancouver to Jasper via Prince George. I don't have their website handy but do a Google Search for Rocky Mountaineer Railtours and I'm sure something interesting will come up.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Seeing we are talking about Canada, I just returned from a trip to BC and Alberta. Took the Via Rail Skeena from Prince Rupert to Jasper in Totem Deluxe Class. I have posted my comments in the Via Rail forum at railroad.net. This is a great trip, and a less expensive alternative to the Rocky Mountaineer. I did see the Rocky Mountaineer up in Jasper. Also drove down to Kicking Horse pass near Field, BC, and saw the spiral tunnels, with a freight passing through. Got another trip planned on the California Zephyr from DEN to SAC for late August, my third trip on that train this year. Just can't get enough of the Zephyr !
Posts: 133 | From: Canaan, CT | Registered: Dec 2004
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Sbalax:I sailed on the Constellation last fall.It's a nice ship. Sorry to diverge from Amtrak.
Posts: 498 | From: New Hope, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Your day trip from Seattle would be Mt Rainier, not Mt McKinley. It is a L-O-N-G day trip, but if the mountain is "out" you do get good views. I believe Paradise Inn is closed for renovations for this summer and maybe next summer, too, and it would be disappointing not to be able to lunch there. Be aware that "summer" is short at Rainier. When I was there in early July, there was so much snow at Pasadise that no hiking (except on the road) was possible & no alpine flowers were blooming. As you may be able to tell, Mt Rainier is one of my favorite places on earth.
Posts: 337 | From: Goshen, IN | Registered: Jun 2006
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I meant Rainier; I think I am getting a little senile, mixing them up!
If I go to Seattle again, it would be in conjunction with the Banff/Jasper etc expedition, and I would be going in late May, which definitely doesn't sound too promising for Mt Rainier. I am very tired of going to see mountains that are all fogged up and not see-able. . . . I think I am going to tell my friend to meet in Vancouver and forget about meeting in Seattle . . . I will maybe take the Zephyr to Sacramento, switch to Coast Starlight, overnight in Eugene, OR, then next day catch a Cascades to Seattle and head straight to Vancouver on the bus. Maybe I could even go to back to Victoria for a couple of days, and return to Vancouver and meet my friend, if there is time.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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