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Perhaps it’s stretching a point to call it a winter trip, but my wife and I have just flown back from Victoria after a delightful trip from Toronto to Vancouver on the Canadian. There was, in fact, some winter weather around Parry Sound, Ont. and quite a bit more in northern Ontario. But the snow disappeared at the Manitoba border for which the Winnipeg-based crew took credit!
Our departure of 8th Nov. had what we were told was the first of the short winter consists: two coaches (there is often only one in winter,) Skyline, dining car, three Manor-series sleepers and the Park car. There were about 40 sleeping car passengers out of Toronto and the load increased across the country, totalling 54 out of Jasper. At that point the sleepers were full. The fact that the crew are accommodated in the sleepers as opposed to a dormitory car accounts for the relatively low count on a full train. Meals were served in two sittings and it appeared to me that everyone got their preferred sitting. Only six or seven tables were used in the diner because in the off-season the dining car crew can be as small as four: steward, chef and two service attendants. But the same menu is used as in the summer season, namely four choices at each meal. Other than at breakfast, the menus are completely different each day and even at breakfast there were some changes every morning. Much has been written about the meal service and all I will say is that the excellence continues.
VIA has raised the prices for wine to $7.50 per glass or $37.50 per bottle. These prices include taxes, but even so there was little wine sold. As I recall, at the first sitting for lunch no-one ordered wine any day and we were the only ones to have a glass at the first dinner sittings. The quality of the wine has improved from last year when it was $4.95 a glass, but even so many passengers think the price too high. The complimentary “champagne-type wine” is offered once a day, but it is ghastly plonk. The fact that the plastic cups in which it is served are small makes it easy to be polite and give it a taste. But it is a nice touch to have this offered and not everyone is as fussy about wine as I am. You can always bring your own bar into your private room. We always do. Drinks and liqueurs in the Park car are reasonably priced and it was nice to have a night-cap in such elegant surroundings. (A generous 50 ml. portion of Grand Marnier served in a brandy snifter was only $6.50.)
Timekeeping was excellent for the first two days, with arrivals early everywhere. We arrived in Sioux Lookout an hour early, which gave passengers the opportunity to walk or play in the snow three times longer than normal. (There were some fall colours left in other parts of the country.) A broken knuckle on a CN freight caused us a two and a quarter hour delay at Wainwright, Alberta. But time was gradually made up and, with station stops in Edmonton and Jasper shortened, arrival in Vancouver was 20 minutes early. As I previously wrote, a late westbound Canadian will reduce the already limited viewing time of the mountains, so if this will cause you angst it would be better to take a trip in late winter or early spring when there is more daylight.
Posts: 216 | From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Jul 2000
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posted
I guess, David, VIA does not offer "halves" such as does Amtrak. Last time I was aboard, Amtrak offers a "drinkable' Kendall Jackson varietal and sell such for US$14.
But I agree for 'what'll it be Red or White" crowd, CD$37.50 would seem steep, even though I customarily pay that and more for a bottle at a restaurand - but that's me.
But then, I'm just 'a beer is a beer" and I know well that is hardly the case everyone holds with the various microbrewies about both sides of the 49th.
I understand, though, that you DO have some distinctly Canadian varietals up your way.
Posts: 9975 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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Thanks David for your interesting trip report. As I am off to Vancouver next month, I'm glad to hear that Via is maintaining its standards in the dining car. Rather disappointing that Via is still flogging that awful plonk and calling it Champagne. There is a drink offered in the Park car that consists of the bogus bubbles and vodka, that is actually quite good, much better than drinking it straight.
Since I am connecting in Vancouver with the non-Talgo train to Seattle, then the Coast Starlight to Los Angeles, the SW Chief to Chicago, the Lake Shore to Buffalo and finally the Maple Leaf back to Toronto, I will have plenty of opportunity to compare and contrast the services of the two railways.
Posts: 524 | From: Toronto Ont. Canada | Registered: Mar 2001
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To be fair to VIA, the wine prices are not out of line with what a restaurant would charge - and restaurant prices are subject to federal and (except in Alberta) provincial sales tax.
At one time VIA had quarter and half-bottles for sale, but now it's either a glass or full bottle in the dining car. The Park car and Skyline car offer small bottles for those wanting a glass: they are 200 mil. which is approximately what a quarter-bottle would be.
The free "bubbly" offered shortly after departure from the end points and Winnipeg and Jasper is now usually referred to as sparkling wine. On my recent trip one of the crew did refer to it as Champagne. I whispered to my wife, "If that's Champagne then I'm the Prince of Wales."
Posts: 216 | From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Jul 2000
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Thanks for the great trip report, David. All this talk of the Canadian tempts me to do it, but I think I'll have to wait till 2009.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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