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Blustery would be the way to describe San Francisco on our morning there. This soon cleared to a breezy brilliant clear sky for the rest of our stay in California. It was ideal weather for our brief visit.
The night before it took us two hours after train arrival to make the Thruway bus trip to our hotel. That was a good thing. While the bus driver did little to tell us where we were (an occasional mumble), we had a complete tour of the city: Caltrain station, baseball stadium, Embarcadero, Fisherman’s wharf, Chinatown before heading to the retail section near Union Square where our hotel was located. By that time most of the bus’ 30 or so passengers had left. So we were delighted when the driver walked back to the remaining passengers and asked the names of our hotels. We then received door to door service that was very much appreciated at the end of a long day.
Many thanks to Frank for his excellent hotel recommendation. The King George hotel was perfect. We like the smaller hotels with a little personality, and this fit the bill. It was reasonably priced in a great location with a good restaurant (Café Mason? for a late dinner on one side and the fun Lori’s diner for breakfast on the other).
It was good to have a vigorous morning walk (easy to do in SF) after 4 days on the train. There were great photo opportunities, especially in some of the markets in Chinatown, Nob Hill and on the waterfront near the ferry terminal.
Since this was all about the journey rather than the destination (until we got to Scottsdale) it was off at mid day to the CalTrain terminal and our first experience with the SP peninsula line to San Jose. After leaving the south SF area, the rest of the trip was non stop upscale communities like Menlo Park and Palo Alto. I was impressed at the Milbrae stop by the BART shuttle train across the platform to the SF airport that was within eyesight. One of the coaches had half the seats on the lower level removed for bike racks (well used) and one had some of the seats removed for baggage (which we used). All facilities and equipment were clean and well done.
With all those communities it is easy to see why CA is insisting on the HSR taking this route into SF rather than skirting around the bay to the Oakland area. I wonder if this population density had been there 40 years ago, would the Daylight still be running? It is certainly time for its return.
At San Jose, Hertz picked us up at the station for our rental. From there it was a quick drive to our first stop. We decided to skip a planned drive around Pacific Grove and the famous 17 mile drive along the coast including Pebble Beach. Instead we headed for Salinas and the excellent John Steinbeck museum. It was very extremely well done and we talked about what fun it would be to retrace his footsteps in ‘Travels with Charley’. The camper he used was on display.
Since it was then late afternoon we hurried over the pass to the start of the stunning drive along the Big Sur coast. We decided it easily ranked in the top 5 of the most spectacular, photogenic places we have been. The light at that time of day was perfect to highlight the dramatic rocky coast and the churning white water. A hundred or more pictures later we arrived at our destination – a cabin in the redwoods (with a fire pit all ready for a match) a short distance from the ocean. A delicious sunset dinner at the Nepenthe restaurant perched on a bluff along the coast was a great way to end the day. We were then more than ready to crash for the night.
The highlight of our two day drive was a long stop the next morning at the remote Pfeiffer Beach S.P. We knew it was going to be good when we had to ask directions at a small grocery store, as there were no signs along Highway 1 (Pacific Coast Highway). After a two mile narrow winding drive down a canyon, we spent several hours there with only a handful of people in sight. We stopped at several more spots (including one with many sunning elephant seals) causing us to be too late to take a tour of the Hearst Castle – something for our next trip when we want to spend time at the National Parks.
After dinner in the nice town of Paso Robles, we headed back on US 101 to San Jose for the night. The most surprising thing about this portion of our trip was how it was relatively unpopulated along the coast and our return through the valley. It was a nice change from the SF area.
The following morning we were ready for our next train ride – the Starlight to Santa Barbara. Before boarding we heard the announcement for the first of two Caltrain baseball specials from San Jose to the Giants afternoon game. Can’t beat that – baseball and a train ride. Almost makes me want to move to CA.
Harold greeted us warmly and showed us to roomette 2, then disappeared for the rest of the trip. But that was ok as we spent most of the time in the PPC. Our sleeper proudly proclaimed it was a Beech Grove rebuild. We also liked the Starlight logo on the headrest and posters in the halls.
Since Vicki gave an excellent CS report recently, I’ll just mention a few things. We had a light load, according to Harold (although most all rooms looked as if they had been used) so there was plenty of room in the PPC. Best of all, the informative and entertaining Flauvio (sp?) was our attendant.
The PPC was great and as good as I remembered from our first trip not long after it had begun operating. My favorite was the very comfortable single swivel seats. They were the closest Amtrak has come to the true Parlor car seats from ‘old days’. I would love to see all business class seating replaced with these – then the BC premium would really be justified.
We both greatly enjoyed the scenery. It was non stop fields of crops with migrant workers hard at work. With the help of others, we must have identified at least a half dozen different types of fruits and vegetables. My wife said that she will never again complain about their high cost after seeing the intense manual labor required. It was easy to understand why the Salinas Valley calls itself the nation’s salad bowl.
So it was an easy choice for our PPC lunch selection. An excellent salad of spinach, cranberries, walnuts, gorgonzola and grilled chicken with a half bottle of wine. It was easily the best lunch on our trip (other than in Chicago with GBN). It was a real treat to be seated across from my wife as we had the booth to ourselves. But we still had an interesting conversation with a couple across from us. They too were on a long trip and returning to LA to catch a plane home to Hawaii. After comparing many train stories, we learned we were chatting with Jim Loomis, author of ‘All Aboard’, and his very nice wife.
During the afternoon, we descended Cuesta grade into SLO and began the one of a kind trip along the coast (although it seemed somewhat tame after Big Sur). I had another conversation with an interesting gentleman who seemed to be familiar with the route. It turns out he was riding the train to LA so that he could ride the private car, Tioga Pass, the next day on its trip to Glacier N.P. He had some good stories including riding the Atlantic Coast Line ‘for the government’ early in his career during the Cuban missile crisis era. After wine tasting helped us all become more talkative, it turns out he worked for the CIA, but did not offer more details. I’ll bet he had some good tales to tell.
Speaking of wine tasting, I certainly don’t begrudge Amtrak their $2 for a soda and $5 for wine tasting, if it helps keep the PPC going. The PPC was very popular with passengers and it seems to me this would be a great type of service for the CCC cars. Add in a few of those swivel seats and some upholstery and they would be very similar.
So we arrived Santa Barbara on time and headed for the Marina Beach Motel. It was reasonably priced, had a friendly staff, excellent continental breakfast (freshly made pastries) and just a block to the waterfront. Based on Frank’s recommendations, we had an excellent dinner that night on the balcony at Brophy Bros, and great shrimp tacos for lunch the next day at Shellfish Co, also outside on the wharf (shady side).
We especially liked Brophy because it was near the commercial fishing docks. Sitting near us were mostly locals, including a table of 12 who were high rollers (an uncle worked with Cecil B. DeMille) and were amazed we had taken the train all the way. We also saw there a small boat captain we had met on the docks who had just brought in a large catch of sea urchins. Seems they are a quite a high priced delicacy in Japan.
SBA was a nice town and it too was marked as a spot where we’d like to spend a little more time. Not sure how they’ve kept out the high rises and franchise eateries and hotels, but we certainly appreciated it.
Too soon we were off on the 2:00 pm Surfliner to Burbank. A SRO train on that Friday afternoon had us into Burbank right on time a couple hours later. This was another stop where the airport was within eyesight, and a very easy walk down a shady sidewalk. Supposedly there was a shuttle bus, but it never appeared. Within 10 minutes, even with bags, we were at the Southwest curbside check in. Another 15 min and we were through security. Even though I love seeing the LA station, this was a lot easier than dealing with the crowds there, the Flyaway Bus, and crowded LAX.
We had a great trip, but were glad to be off to Scottsdale for my father in-law’s big birthday, and a little rest.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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And so easy to see why so many people dream of chucking their everyday routines for the 'good life' in California.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Interesting report. You surely "covered the water front" as the saying goes.I am happy to hear that the Steinbeck rv has been saved. Travels With Charley is one of my faorite books. A friend gave me the book as a birthday gift one year because I took it out of the lbrary so often. My husband and I have taken that route both by car and train so it was old home week for me. I am eagerly awaiting your next report.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Good trip report. Goes to show how much fun you can have with some short train rides and very scenic, interesting destinations along the way.
-------------------- Everybody has to believe in something. I believe I'll take the train! Posts: 230 | From: Ithaca, New York | Registered: May 2009
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What I find here so interesting, in contrast to the "hate planes; I'll never fly, trains everywhere" sentiment at other sites, is the willingness of our inveterate travelers here to take "the plane to the train" and v.v.
This of course represents hobby riding; while in Mr. Palmland's case, he and Miss Mary wish to be with her Father for his 90th birthday, the journey is being made for reasons in addition to this important family event (very pleased they chose to visit with me). I too attended my Father's 90th birthday during 1999, but for it I simply flew out to New York and back.
While I realize that I am no particular friend of the LD trains, and that in my Utopian world they'd be gone, the existing limited system is here to stay. It is simply political expediency for such to be the case. The LD's will not become "Penn Central on A-Day Eve" as "the Critters" can do nicely without a deluge of "Congressman, I want to tell you about my crappy trip on Amtrak..it stunk" type letters.
So even if the trains do not go exactly where our contingent of hobby travelers want to go, it is pleasing to see the willingness to take 'train to the plane', as hobby pursuits can be fulfilled without any need for the latest NARP "vision".
Posts: 9975 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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Until 10 or 12 years ago my log of Amtrak routes covered made it about as far west as Glenwood Springs, CO. The west coast remained entirely untapped because the proposition of getting there from the Southeast by rail was three or four nights each direction. Who, in most still working lives, has time to devote 10-14 days to just riding the train.....in one stretch.
It was my wife, a much smarter individual than I, who first said "Well why don't you just fly to Denver or Salt Lake City and take the train west from there?"
That was so obvious but the idea had never dawned on me. Duh!!!!!
So now, ten years on, I've closed in every mile of Amtrak west available except for the San Joaquins. I've also learned about airport to rail station transfers in a number of cities. I wish that Omaha and Kansas City had some options other than expensive cab rides or hour long city bus rides with all intermediate stops. Albuquerque is very good. Denver not bad. Salt Lake City is not an unreasonable cab ride.....but the train times are...... Grand Junction? No. Much trickier than it ought to be......costly airport to fly into also.
So....in conclusion I guess....I much prefer the train but recognize that as rail transit exists in our country, it is often an option you have to go out of the way for.....and using other modes to reach it is often a given.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by palmland: . . . . Since this was all about the journey rather than the destination (until we got to Scottsdale) it was off at mid day to the CalTrain terminal and our first experience with the SP peninsula line to San Jose. After leaving the south SF area, the rest of the trip was non stop upscale communities like Menlo Park and Palo Alto. I was impressed at the Milbrae stop by the BART shuttle train across the platform to the SF airport that was within eyesight. One of the coaches had half the seats on the lower level removed for bike racks (well used) and one had some of the seats removed for baggage (which we used). All facilities and equipment were clean and well done.
With all those communities it is easy to see why CA is insisting on the HSR taking this route into SF rather than skirting around the bay to the Oakland area. I wonder if this population density had been there 40 years ago, would the Daylight still be running? It is certainly time for its return.
Unfortunately, these "upscale" communities are the loudest objectors to the HSR coming through their towns. Some of their logic is incomprehensible, but it generally boils down to anywhere but here.
Yes, the Caltrain is a nice service.
Unlikely that the poppulation of these communities would have kept the Daylight going if they had been there at the time.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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......With all those communities it is easy to see why CA is insisting on the HSR taking this route into SF rather than skirting around the bay to the Oakland area. I wonder if this population density had been there 40 years ago, would the Daylight still be running? It is certainly time for its return.
Unfortunately, these "upscale" communities are the loudest objectors to the HSR coming through their towns. Some of their logic is incomprehensible, but it generally boils down to anywhere but here.
Yes, the Caltrain is a nice service.
Unlikely that the population of these communities would have kept the Daylight going if they had been there at the time.
George - somewhat surprising, as you would think that the wealthy and educated of that area would support an alternative to more freeways and gas @$3.50/gal. But, I guess those individuals are mainly concerned about their own narrow self interests and feel they have done their part by buying a tricked out Prius.
GBN- Train to plane is a good solution even for those with time to travel. After 8 days, 4 nights and five different trains, we were ready to get to our destination on Southwest (and then home). It is also a good thing financially. While we used 'free' AGR points for all but the California trips, to pay the going rate would have been exorbitant. Our flight PHX to Birmingham was $90 (with no baggage fees).
David - Another train to plane connection I'd like to try is Milwaukee's new station at the airport. That's on the agenda for next year when my brother and I travel there for the model railroad convention. It would also work well for those trying to make a same day connection to the Empire Builder to/from the east coast. But then we'd have to miss lunch with GBN.
Trainlady - glad you enjoyed our trip. For our traveling reading Mary is enjoying the Hamish MacBeth mystery series by M.C. Beaton. I was into Paul Theroux's latest and, as always, grim travel book - Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, a reprise of his original best seller, The Great Railway Bazaar.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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I've enjoyed the whole report - thank you. This last part was extra-well done. I am taking the CZ home from Denver next Wednesday, but will be flying to Denver due to time contstraints. I've done the plane to train thing several times, and yes it does allow a longer reach in a shorter time period, but come retirement, God willing and the creek don't rise, I'm looking forward to an all-train excusion.
Most of the pushback to the HSR route through the Silicon Valley seems to be from (well to do) NIMBY types. Seems to me this attitude has replaced one where "progress" was welcomed, from maybe 50 years ago. But then, I suspect maybe it's just easier today due to technology to get one's little voice heard over the city hall loudspeakers.
Posts: 406 | From: La Grange, CA | Registered: Sep 2007
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Tell Mary that when she finishes with Hamash to get the Agatha Raisin series..same author. That is one of the advantages of the tran..you can curl up in comfort and read at night. Tell Mary hat I have finlly gotten started on the House at Sugar Beach. I often carry a number of paperbacks in my carry on and just leave them in the room for the next person when we detrain.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Ah yes......the Milwaukee Airport. I used it a number of times during my involvement with the drum and bugle corps activity. From the airport I would generally catch the Badger Coach bus to Madison. This was before the rail station opened. I am eager to return (as it is a nice airport) and try the rail connection.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by palmland: [George - somewhat surprising, as you would think that the wealthy and educated of that area would support an alternative to more freeways and gas @$3.50/gal. But, I guess those individuals are mainly concerned about their own narrow self interests and feel they have done their part by buying a tricked out Prius.
After a while you begin to wonder how these people ever had the sense and brains (completely separate attributes, by the way) to ever make the money they obviously have. Well, maybe the didn't. They may just be blowing through what Grandpa made.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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