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And it was great. I took NE corridor trains to Washington and the Capital Ltd both ways to Chicago--food much improved there, and scenery very nice to see the route eastbound the 2nd day, when one sees more. After an overnight in lincoln (or overday) I reboarded the Zephyr, which in all stages was excellent--I missed the rock slides, flooding, and other problems and did not have to do any detours--instead I crossed the Rockies in glorious weather. I took two more breaks, in Glenwood Springs, and Reno--the first was a very nice Rocky Mountain town, beautifully situated in Glenwood Canyon, and very convenient for rail travel. I stayed at the Hotel Denver, recommended here, which was excellent for the train--I particularly loved that mother-of-pearl mural from the Rock Island Line the hotel has in its lobby. On the morning I hoped to go to Aspen it was snowing there, so I stayed in Glenwood Springs, had a lovely breakfast at the historic Hotel Colorado, went to small but very nice history museum in town, and, when the sun came out(!) to the hot spring pool, which was quite nice to do (and they supply bathing suits if you need one, plus a locker). I also really enjoyed the specialized train souvenir shop in the train station. And most restaurants here were quite good, inc one called Juicy Lucy's or something like that where I had a very tasty elkburger and fries and a little Mexican place called La Gallina where I had a nice fresh cheap torta.
In contrast, I'm afraid I found Reno pretty dreadful--the downtown was nothing but casinos and pawn shops--and I really didn't feel completely safe at night so I never got to a Basque restaurant that some of you here recommended I try! But I had no trouble catching a bus to Carson City, which was a zillion times nicer, esp the area where the capital is and the streets of nice old homes near the governor's mansion (inc one where Mark Twain's brother lived)--also was a bit surprised at the absolute excellence of a Thai restaurant there called Basils. I also took a bus tour to Lake Tahoe, a lovely lake, but the tour spent too much time at South Lake Tahoe casinos (would have rather hung out at the CalNeva Hotel if one had to go to a casino/hotel!). The tour also let me spend some time in Virginia City--only way to get there without a car (that train isn't running till MEmorial Day, apparently). I found it a bit hokey-touristy, but still fun--I esp liked the mine tour I took in back of a bar called Ponderosa--we all know why).
I continued my trip the long way, heading for Sacramento, changing for the Starlight, and then catrching the Empire Builder back east. The Coast Starlight was a fine train--really liked the refurbished parlour car--my only problem was the middle of the night (and somewhat late) boarding in Sacramento, which was very exhausting! But I got to spend more time at the CA RR museum, which I think is probably even better than B&O perhaps. Still, next time I make this loop, I'm wondering if I might go to Davis or Emeryville or someplace else and make the train change there--what do you all recommend?
I made the Portland connection (surprise surprise) and had a simply splendid ride on the Empire Builder--even though it had been SNOWING in the Cascades when we went thru on the CS, we got marvelous views of Mt Shasta before that and now here more fine views on the Columbia River Gorge (some fog in PDX soon dissipated). Glacier Park views excellent next day as well. I do think eastern Montana is a bit dull, but how nice the Mississippi part of the EB is on a sunny day--this is surely the best of the western trains for seeing the river.
And we had lots of rails & trails type narration on this trip--CA RR museum folks over the Sierra Nevada on the Zephyr, someone else through the Cascades on the Coast Starlight, and TWICE on the EB--Glacier Park and down the Mississippi MN to WI!
Food was very good, except for one overdone steak. French toast and omlets esp good, as were pork specials and pasta, salads nice and crisp, and some good desserts, inc lemon sorbet, key lime crumb cake, and cheesecake. I liked getting chocolates when my roomette bed was turned down in the EB and I also brought home those little champagne bottles I received on both the EB and the Starlight. I enjoyed the wine and cheese on the EB as well. I also took the option of dining in the CS parlor car one time--it was quite nice, even though the menu is more limited.
I had no problems with crew nor other Amtrak staff except for one very nasty lady in Chicago "helping" us board form Metro Lounge, though I must say the Cap Ltd was far less friendly than the other trains. All my roomettes were pretty good, too, though I was sometimes too hot or cold--but with all the weird weather changes, I think that is understandable.
Trains were by and large on time--the worst was, alas, the middle of the night Coast Starlight arrival in Sacramento, about an hour and 20 minutes late. We also were over an hour late back to Chicago on the EB, surprisingly, because of track work in Wisconsin (we were on time before that). The Cap Ltd was about an hour late into Chicago but eastbound actually was early into DC, so I had no trouble at all making connections there.
So, all in all, an excellent western junket, and I feel rather blessed to have missed some of the problems others have been encountering lately on the Zephyr route!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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I wonder why the Capitol Limited is 'less friendly' than other trains? I've noticed this myself (I last rode the Cap 11 months ago) but hadn't quite mulled over it enough to express it the way you did. Generally on the Cap I mostly keep to myself in my room.
Glenwood Springs - Any chance you were there on Sunday, May 16? I spent a few minutes on the platform that day when #6 rolled in ahead of schedule.
Regarding Sacramento - If #5 is ontime, I'd be inclined to go ahead and hop off there as planned BUT then catch a Capitol Corridor train three or four hours later down to Martinez and hop the Starlight there. Davis does look like an interesting place to explore BUT I'm not sure it's sufficiently beyond Sacramento to make much difference in what time you board the northbound Coast Starlight.
Problem is, you would need to ticket your trip as such and it's hard to predict how timekeeping may affect your trip.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Sounds like you had a nice trip, Sojourner, and thanks for the narrative.
I was in Glenwood Springs about 10 years ago, and stayed at the Hotel Colorado (was it the Hotel Colorado or the Hotel Denver where Doc Holliday died? (it wasn't in the TB sanitarium). The Hotel Colorado, at the time, had a nice lobby and restaurant, but the rooms were very bad and not worth the price. I think they have remodeled it, since. I loved the Amtrak train station in Glenwood.
Yes, it is difficult boarding the Coast Starlight in Sacramento, considering it gets in around midnight (if on time). I like to board in Davis.
Downtown Reno has always been an eyesore. It gets worse as you drive over to Sparks. I have always liked Virginia City and Carson City, however.
You ran into some very cold weather, here in Northern Calif. This past week they had snow storms in the Sierras and hail here in Santa Rosa. Very unusual for late May.
I'm glad you liked the Empire Builder and the food. I will be departing from Seattle and headed for Whitefish, Mt. in early July.
Richard
Posts: 1909 | From: Santa Rosa | Registered: Jan 2004
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: I stayed at the Hotel Denver, recommended here, which was excellent for the train--I particularly loved that mother-of-pearl mural from the Rock Island Line the hotel has in its lobby.
I'm pleased to learn you had a good stay at Hotel Denver; Glenwood Springs. as I believe such was my recommendation to the Forum.
If traveling by Amtrak, it is pretty hard to beat its location.
As for myself and my April auto trip that took me through Glenwood Spgs on I-70, had I stayed there rather than in Downtown Denver, it would have been an awful long day in order to make my Dinner appointment with Mr. PullmanCo. As it was from Denver, the Denver-KC segment was the only segment on which I was late - 30 minutes in this case, but Mr. PullmanCo is an understanding fellow.
And yes, on my auto trips, I do set a schedule - usually Mr. Google's drive times plus 7% (I think he assumes the users will speed - something I simply do not do) plus 20min fuel and rest stops every four hours. I think the noted 30min delay can be attributed to that I somehow thought Kansas allowed 75mph when in fact, as I learned to my dismay when X-ing into there, 70mph. Also, poking around Limon CO (before knowing of the KA "speed restriction") without success for any vestiges of the UP-CRIP interchange did not help "the cause".
Oh and speaking of Limon, look what handled the Rocky Mtn Rocket from there to Colo Spgs (photographer I have met "along the way").
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Thanks for the interesting and informative report. We do intend to spend some time in Glenwood Springs so I would be interested in your view of the Hotel Denver vs. Colorado. They both sound interesting and from your description and those of Messrs. Norman and Kisor, sounds like there are lots of good places to eat.
I too feel Reno has little going for it unless you are attracted to the casinos. However with frequent Southwest flights it is a good jumping off spot to explore Carson City and that interesting drive to Ely for the Nevada Northern Ry as well as the Tahoe area.
Your description of the EB makes me want to try the Portland section, as we have always gone into Seattle.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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If you're going to be in the air, the Salt Lake City airport is not a bad jumping off point for the trip to Ely too.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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David, I might well have been on the track that Sunday. Richard, the Hotel Denver was where Doc Holliday stayed, although I think at that time it may have been called the Hotel Glenwood. However, the Hotel Colorado is perhaps more famous--it was a western White House for Teddy Roosevelt, and Benjamin Harrison, Al Capone, and many other famous and notorious folks stayed there over the years. It is a more ornate building, a bit like an Italian palazzo, but I'd still recommend the Hotel Denver to stay in, Palmland, because it's more convenient to most of the downtown (inc the train) and esp because it has air conditioning; the Hotel Colorado does not (depending on when you are going, of course, this could be important). Note that the train station has STEPS up to the hotel and elsewhere in the area of the station; if you want to get out without steps, you have to walk all the way down the platform under the pedestrian bridge (the one over the river) etc., quite a ways. OR the Hotel Denver often has bellhops/concierges at desk who will come get your luggage for a tip, usually. They also had a shuttle. They also gave free water and cofee with granola bars in the morning. They will supply a towel to take to the hot spring pool--just leave a deposit till you bring it back. I believe they will shuttle you to the hot spring if the shuttle is available and you don't want to walk (but it's close, over pedestrian bridge)
But I'd strongly recommend DINING at the Hotel Colorado. I was there for breakfast--very interesting menu, very tasty, and not super pricey. I'm told they have very fine dining at other meals, though dinner is indeed pricey. The Hotel Colorado lobby also had a small cafe with pastry etc and good breakfast prices.
You also may want to find out about the place where Mr Kisor stays; I didn't see it but the price might be right! However, I liked staying on the train station side of the river and walking all around there; the other side, except for the Hotel Colorado and the hot spring pools and caves, seemed to be mainly strip highway ick, not the quaint older part of town.
In addition to the hot spring pools and caves, things to do include walking (or biking) over the pedestrian bridge (it was out when I was there but should be repaired now) and perhaps along the canyon (though they were doing work on some of those paths too); visit the nice little house museum, called Frontier Historical Society Museum, 1001 Colorado (same side of river as train, Hotel Denver, etc), 970-945-4448, open M-Sa 11-4, I believe. You can walk the trail to Doc Holliday's grave (many nice houses on streets leading up to it; again, this is same side of river as Hotel Denver & train). You can take the free bus down Grand Av and back to see Mount Sopris (even though it will bring you to modern American strip/McDonalds/gas station land). There is also a movie downtown, Springs Theater, on Grand Av, and other activities--check posters or with the hotel desk for what's going on.
While I wouldn't call Glenwood Springs a dining mecca, there were plenty of good places to eat. In addition to the Hotel Colorado I'd recommend
El Gallito, 208 7th, 970-945-1464 (a few blocks down from the Hotel Denver), a new cute but very simple, inexpensive very ethnic Mexican restaurant with good fresh ingredients in tortas and with jarritos (Mexican sodia) or Dos Equis.
Juicy Lucy’s Steakhouse, 308 7th St, Downtown right near the Hotel Denver, 970-945-4619, open for lunch and dinner, moderately priced, but higher prices at dinner. I had a lunch of elkburger & fries.
Daily Bread Bakery/Café, 729 Grand Av, Downtown not to far from Hotel Denvr, 970-945-6253. Moderate breakfast or lunch place; though the breakfast is not as good as Hotel Colorado, it's still rather good, and I believe they make their own bread.
Some places I didn't get to that have reputations for good food (not sure all are still in business, though I know Bayou is):
Bayou, 919 Grand Av, Dwntwn by Spring Theater, 3 blocks South of bridge (it's on same side as Hotel Denver, 970-945-1047, glenwoodguide.com/bayou. Said to be a fun & funky Cajun. Seemed to serve only D fr 4PM.
Restaurant Sopris, 7215 State Hwy 82, 7 mi S Glenwd, 970-945-7771. D only. Moderately expensive Continental. Has view of Mt Sopris, but I don't think you can get here without a car. Famous clientele.
Rivers, 2525 Grand Av by Sunlight (27th St?) Brdg, 970-928-8813, theriversrestaurant.com. Dinner &Su Brunch only? Deck on river; may be a wait. Moderate eclectic menu inc elk medallions, wild boar.
There are also several espresso houses/cafés with coffee, chai latte, etc; I went to one called Sacred Grounds, right on Grand; afterward, I saw a cute one that served quite a bit of other food as well, all reasonably priced: Haute Plate (HP) Bistro, 205 8th just off Grand, Downtwon, 970-945-5011, hauteplatebistro.com. 8-3 M-Sa, 8-2 Su. Coffee, chai, food.
The only place where I was disappointed was J H Chens, around the corner from the Hotel Denver. It was a pleasantly appointed Chinese/Japanese, but the dish I ordered was not very good.
There are also lots of nice little shops on Grand on the Hotel Denver/train station side. The drug store had an extensive collection of cheaper tourist gifts (refrigerator magnets and the like), but there weren't too many other of these stores (maybe one T-shirt shop); instead there were some more interesting craft-y sorts of shops, a book shop, quilt or rug or fabric places that looked interesting, and so on. . . . I'm not much of a shopper when I travel so I didn't look at these too much, but people who like to shop should like them. Both the Hotel Denver and the Hotel Colorado had small shops in them too, and kinda of cattycorner from the Colorado, at the beginning of one of those strips (with motels, diner, etc), was another fairly junky gift shop with some more comical junk (although I saw some of the same items as the drug store had, but priced higher).
Hope this helps!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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On my first Amtrak trip, I did the change from WB Zephyr to NB Starlight in Emeryville. I did this by booking those segments separately, and I talked regularly with the conductor on the Zephyr about the possibility of having to get make the change in Sacramento instead. At the time there was a 5-hour window at Emeryville, so I felt fairly safe in planning it that way. As it worked out, the Zephyr was 4 hours late & the Starlight was pretty close to on time, so I spent a pleasant 45 minutes or so in the early evening on the platform at Emeryville watching trains and admiring the beautiful flowers. On my trip last summer, I used AGR points & found that I could only make the connection in Sacramento. I tried to buy tickets between SAC and EMR. The helpful Amtrak agent could extend my roomette reservation to Emeryville for <$20, but he could not sell me a ticket on the Starlight between SAC and EMR on the Starlight because computer insisted on regional trains for that trip (in spite of the fact that my roomette was empty EMR to SAC). Even I was not brave enough to get booked on a different train, so I gave up on the plan. (I ended up taking a different trip entirely because I did not want to do the Wyoming detour in spite of the recommendations read on this board.)
-------------------- My new "default" station (EKH) has no baggage service or QuikTrak machine, but the parking is free! And the NY Central RR Museum is just across the tracks (but not open at Amtrak train times. . ..) Posts: 337 | From: Goshen, IN | Registered: Jun 2006
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I am just posting again here so that it moves up and City of Miami can see it.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Heck, I was happily reading along, quite content to have another vicarious treat, until I noticed the comment about the Virginia City RR not running unitl Memorial day! (the snow in Aspen didn't really register) So...still a good report Posts: 406 | From: La Grange, CA | Registered: Sep 2007
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