The following is documentation of DCC and it's introduction to my layout for the first time. I thought this might help to stimulate a good discussion. It is taken from something I posted on another board. I do hope this is ok.
Hang on to your hats.
It's Sunday, and it all started out relatively quiet and peaceful. "Big Bear Lake, where the motor boats a putin...", lyrics borrowed from Mel Blank.
Terry, a mountain man at heart drove the circuitous mountain roads to arrive at Big Bear Lake with his Digitrax, Zephyr, Digital Command Control and a handful of DCC locomotives. The headlines should read, DCC arrives in the Big Bear Mountains, Big Bear Lake, CA..
Wow, I could not believe my eyes and ears with what I saw and heard... on my layout!
What I don't understand is why nothing has been said? Unless I missed it somewhere...well...read on. It's like it's some big secret and we can't tell anybody. Shhh, this will be just between us...ok? OK!
Now, before I go and get all excited, like I'm not already. Let me set this up for you. Here's how I installed my electrical system. This may be important to some of you. Real important and good news.
I use DPDT toggle switches, to route Analog DC, Cab A or Cab B to specific blocks in order to be able to operate more then one train at a time. Old school...for sure but FUN!
Keep in mind there is no common wire or common rail...I wouldn't touch that way and means of wiring with a six inch pencil let alone a ten foot pole. We can discuss this later.
In anticipation of the possibility of changing over to DCC, I used a household, 14 gauge wire as a bus line that serves all my control panels...running from both transformers Cab A and Cab B, around to the backside of each control panel. From the bus to the control panel, I use 18 gauge wire to thread all the DPDT's together. To the track, all my drop wires are 20 or 22 gauge feeder wires. They are soldered to the "Home runs" that run from the DPDT's to the drop wires. What gauge? The wire runs that are less then 2 feet I use 20 gauge wire, 3 to 6 foot runs I use 18 gauge wire.
All wire joints or splices are soldered. Most if not all of the rail joiners are soldered including Kato track sections (be careful you can melt the plastic).
One more factor to consider: I heard tell you have to have wire drops in place, every three feet. My wire drops are in the middle of track blocks 6 to 9 foot long and one 12 foot section of the main.
Now let me ask you, is this the way we've been instructed to wire-in DCC? You are so right... NO! Not at all. Did I make that clear enough?
Please, feel free to re-read the above as it is important you get this. DCC, Analog DC, DPDT, 20 or 22 gauge wire, Cab A or Cab B and it all operates flawlessly. You got that...right?
The Story: DCC comes to my layout.
I figured that once Terry, got his DCC unit hooked up it would all be over but the crying. It's what happens next that blows my mind and gave me a freeze over brain fart, all but blowing a brain cork and leaving me... well...numb! Ok, I had to step out and take a nitro...darn angina...won't leave a guy alone when he is having fun.
Terry, rails a locomotive in an area where I don't have any wire drops, "Yet" (still under construction), on a block longer then 12 feet at about 9 feet from a feeder wire (a future block, still connected to an older block, as I haven't cut in the gaps).
At a point furthest from the feeder wires. The locomotive starts-up with a diesel whine, the pop off valve on the air releases, lights come on dim and then onto high, the whine of the motor picks-up, two short's on the horn and the diesel begins to move...what? What? WHAT? Bell ringing! It continues out and onto the main, around the layout with one...oop's.
Steve, having joined us for Terry's Demo., as I'm trying to find a short or whatever it is that's wrong. You see, the night before, I had to solder a rail joiner as it had oxidized (nickel silver) and wasn't allowing current through. We can talk more about this issue later.
Back to the same spot from the night before. I rechecked the solder joint with a meter and I couldn't find any current...before or after. There wasn't any juice in that block. Steve questioning, I wonder if we have a switch off? I look down at the control panel and with a sheepish grin on my face, flip the toggle switch over to cab B. That did it! Power up and available. We are off and running. Now get this, GET THIS...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO FURTHER INTERRUPTIONS OR PROBLEMS!Yeehaw!
Terry, stood there with an, "I told you so", look on his face and twinkle in his eye. I could of swore, a whole lot of pride!
This should be headline news... for all of you out there!
IT WORKS ON MY LAYOUT...IT SHOULD WORK ON YOURS!
Feel free to pass the above on to others.
Disclaimer: Only...If, your layout is wired, similar to mine.
Caution: If you are new to DCC. I wouldn't advise operating DCC simultaneously with Analog DC. There is the potential of shorting out the works, which can cause damage to a decoder and/or the power supplies.
A penny for your thoughts.
-------------------- RickH.
Have fun! Posts: 11 | From: Big Bear Lake, Ca. | Registered: Jul 2011
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I purchsed a used MRC Prodigy DCC outfit. It is now running my layout as Cab A. Today, I learned how to successfully lash-up my diesels and "Consist" them so they will pull together.
Again good news for this OFR.
See, you can teach an old dog new tricks...grin!
-------------------- RickH.
Have fun! Posts: 11 | From: Big Bear Lake, Ca. | Registered: Jul 2011
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