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» RAILforum » Passenger Trains » Amtrak » Concord NH via Boston trip (was: New Haven etc--now revised with TRIP REPORT)

   
Author Topic: Concord NH via Boston trip (was: New Haven etc--now revised with TRIP REPORT)
sojourner
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I may make a quick trip to Concord NH via Boston soon to see the capitol there. I will go down to NYC, overnight there, catch an early train to Boston and the shuttle bus to Concord, see the capitol and overnight there. Then I'll come back early the next morning to Boston, with a few hours there before I catch the branch of the Lakeshore Ltd westbound to Albany.

My new questions: I have not been between New Haven and Boston on the Regional in years. Anything special I should look for en route? I am planning on sitting on the right facing forward NYC to Boston (for water views), but will go into the lounge to see the Hellgate crossing on the left as I leave NYC, based on advice I got here for when I went to New Haven (en route to Hartford) last April. Is that advice still applicable? I am assuming the water views will be even better east of New Haven--I seem to remember that, although it's years since I've been east of New Haven (and often it was nighttime).

I have also never been on the Lakeshore Ltd between Boston and Springfield, Mass. Which side of the train will be better in summer? When I went in April from Springfield to Albany only (returning on my Hartford trip), I liked being on the left and seeing the river views in western Massachusetts (though I did move into empty seats on the right to see some things, inc old Chatham station), but I don't know if those views will be available in summer, with all the trees leafed in. Is there anything special I should look for between Boston and Springfield (the part I've never been on)?

My (previous) questions: While in Boston, I want see the capitol there too. Does anyone know how far it is from Boston's main (south) station and whether or not it is safe to walk? If I don't walk, is there a way to get to and from the capitol other than taxi?

Also, I'll be grabbing a couple of quick meals in Boston. Any recs for a place to eat near the capitol or esp the train station? Takeout is fine; at least one way I won't have time to sit down.

Oh, yes, one more question: Where is the ACELA lounge in Boston? I am not familiar with the station.

Thanks for the info!

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Tanner929
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The best time is if you can leave New Haven in the morning when the sun is comming up. Sit on the eastern side of the train to enjoy the wetlands of Brandford just outside New Haven. U will also enjoy going along Long Island Sound Old Saybrook Mystic and stops along the way to New London. Much of Rhode Island is inland and you'll be below street level going into Providence. I find Boston around South Station is safe and Boston has a very good mass transit system http://www.mbta.com/ its really easy to get around. Like NYC Metro Card they have the Charlie Card. http://www.cityofboston.gov/transportation/modes.asp here is a web site for the city of boston with links to maps. I've never taken the Boston to Springfield route the route to Wochester is also a commuter MBTA line to the beautiful renovated Union Station.
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sojourner
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The Charlie card--what a scream! So that you don't need that nickel to get off the train, eh?

What do you mean by eastern side, Tanner? I think of it as a northern and southern side. Do you mean the right side facing forward? Or do you mean the left side?

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TwinStarRocket
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Are sandwiches still allowed through open windows as the train goes rumbling through?
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Tanner929
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Yes the Charlie Card is named after that Charlie. Growing up in NYC I never understood why Charlie never could get off of that train...The NY MTA you pay one fare be it the Times Square Shuttle or you could ride from the Bronx to the Battery or The Bronx to Brooklyn. For the Metro North you either brought a ticket or they threw you off. In DC you have to pay to get off.

Anyway yes the southern side is the better view I said East because the seats are east west the head of the train faces north at New Haven then turns east then the seats face north south. The early trains traveling across the wetlands mist is really wonderfull followed by passing Long Island Sound.

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Gilbert B Norman
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Here you go, Mr. Tanner--

http://www.maj.org/p2005/ThisLand_mta.html

Possibly from the lyrics, you can determine if Charlie boarded before the fare increase took effect and attempted to alight afterward.

Who knows, but this was quite a popular song during MY teenhood (and we all know that was a while ago).

Finally, Mr. Tanner and Ms Sojourner, the railroad term of Engineer side or Fireman side is the most explicit I know.

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Bob from MA
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Hi again, Sojourner. I just returned to Railforum after a hiatus of several weeks and I saw your questions.

The trip from Boston to Springfield has little to offer as to scenery. In summer, vegetation is close on both sides for much of the time. Of course you get to see Worcester, second largest city in New England, and its beautifully restored Union Station, built in 1909. As usual with cities, you do not see the nicest parts from the train. Few Worcesterites have even heard of the Lake Shore Limited, so you will see a mere handful of people board there.

I am most familiar with the route segment from Worcester to Springfield. If I remember correctly, the mile marker posts are on the left, so you might want to sit on that side. On the other hand, that is the sunny side for much of the way.

Beyond Worcester, the track turns southward through Auburn. Dark Brook Reservoir lies to the left after mile 50. The French River is crossed at Rochdale after mile 52. You may be able to glimpse cars on the Mass. Turnpike through trees on the left between miles 54 and 55.

Between mile markers 57 and 58 is the old Charlton depot area and the beginning of a stretch of double track (a controlled siding). This is the high point between Boston and Springfield. The line turns north beyond this point, then west again after mile 61.

Somewhere along that stretch is a recently-constructed depot where automobiles are unloaded from trains (called the New England Automotive Gateway). It's on the right side. You should see several of the auto-carrying freights parked there. The residents of nearby South Spencer recently convinced the railroad to reduce whistles of trains passing those parked cars, especially at night. Apparently warnings will be done via radio much of the time.

There is some open land as you pass through the Brookfields after mile 63. Beyond mile 66, there are nice views of the Quaboag River just to the left. Then at mile 70 the river crosses to the right side. Watch for downtown Warren and its old station just to the right at about mile 72. At mile 75, the mills of West Warren are seen to the left.

The train runs southward between miles 76 and 81 along a narrow valley, still following the Quaboag River. Heading west again, the train approaches Palmer. The old Palmer station is on the left at mile 83.3. At Palmer the route crosses another rail line, the current name of which I forget. Amtrak's Vermonter comes from Springfield to Palmer and then takes that line to the north.

Not much to see beyond Palmer until you get to the more built-up area approaching Springfield.

Of course the lack of spectacular scenic features in no way diminishes the pleasure of being on the train for folks like us, right? [Smile]

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sojourner
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Thank you so much for the info, Bob! I am going to print up your description and use it as I ride.

And you are right about the pleasure of being on the train. But there is also a pleasure in hearing the low moan of train whistles, so I think those people in South Spencer have no taste!!!!

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George Harris
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Railroad crossed at Palmer is New England Central. Formerly, the Central of Vermont, a Canadian National susidiary.
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Tanner929
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Hey Bob from MA,

A few years back I had read something about your state expanding commuter rails to Springfield using the Amtrak lines. Here in CT they had yet another study of increasing rail service along the Springfield-Hartford-New Haven route. Part of the problem with rail stops along this route is that the stations are quient but have very litte parking spaces. Its sort of a reverse highway problem. If you increase Inter-city Rail Service the'll need to expand either parking lots and access roads or increase public transit links.

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TBlack
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My (previous) questions: While in Boston, I want see the capitol there too. Does anyone know how far it is from Boston's main (south) station and whether or not it is safe to walk? If I don't walk, is there a way to get to and from the capitol other than taxi?

Also, I'll be grabbing a couple of quick meals in Boston. Any recs for a place to eat near the capitol or esp the train station? Takeout is fine; at least one way I won't have time to sit down.

Oh, yes, one more question: Where is the ACELA lounge in Boston? I am not familiar with the station.


Sojourner, I didn't see anywhere that these questions got answered. Permit me to try:Walking is safe and not far; just up Summer St. which turns into Winter St. at the end of which you will be looking at the State House across the Common. The subway is the red line toward Cambridge; 2 stops getting off at Park St. which is right in front of the State House. They have a pretty good tour of the building which is 2 different architectures: Bulfinch colonial in front and 1880's Beaux Arts in the rear. You didn't mention your budget for lunch, and there are options at all price ranges both around the State House and at the South Station. Finally the Acela lounge is on a mezzanine level that was created when the old waiting room was double-decked. As you face the tracks, the entrance will be to your left.

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Bob from MA
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Sojourner:

Apparently the whistle problem near South Spencer was a little more than a lone sound in the night. There were often long rows of freight cars parked on a side track right next to the main line. As I understand it, engineers on passing trains were required to continually sound the whistle until the engine had passed all these cars. Now, somehow, they have circumvented that rule. You can take a look at the situation when you pass the facility.

Tanner 929:

Commuter rail service between Worcester and Boston was re-started about 10 years ago after not existing for a couple decades or more. Of course there was the Lake Shore Limited, but no one used that for commute. It was at the wrong time of day and the eastbound was typically very late. The commuter service immediately proved very popular, surpassing expectations.

Worcester's massive Union Station was in a state of ruin for years. Amtrak had a small facility just to the east with a small parking lot. A huge effort and much money went to re-building and refurbishing Union Station and it opened for business around 2000. Until recently, it was largely empty except for an Amtrak office. An upscale restaurant located there two or three years ago and now there are a few other tenants. The little Amtrak station is still sitting there, now unused.

Parking has indeed been a big problem. There are a few small surface lots nearby that are filled with commuter cars during the day. There has been a lot of talk about the parking situation. Finally, a building was purchased and razed just south of the tracks and a new, multi-story parking garage is under construction. I have not been past it lately, but I think they are still doing site and foundation work. It won't open for a year or more. It will be connected to the station via a tunnel under the track. The tunnel already exists but has been unused for decades.

Amtrak originally ran the commuter trains and you could buy tickets for them at the Amtrak window. Now another company runs those trains. Amtrak no longer sells the tickets. In fact they have a big sign saying that, but people ask anyway. The one Amtrak agent (for a city of 179,000 or so people, second largest in New England!) is usually not very busy, what with only one Amtrak train passing every day in each direction.

There has been much clamoring for additional trains to and from Boston. Former Worcester mayor Tim Murray, now Lieutenant Governor, has been working on this. There are difficult negotiations with CSX, which needs the mostly single Framingham to Worcester track for its extensive freight operations.

There has been talk of extending commuter service beyond Worcester to Springfield, but I do not see that happening anytime soon. Even the LSL has to wait on sidings for freights on that line quite often.

A few years ago there was a train Boston-Worcester-Springfield-New Haven-NYC on the so-called "Inland route", but that was taken off a while back. The best way to get from Worcester to NYC is to go to Boston first!

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Tanner929
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Thank you Bob MA,

I must have read about the company taking over from Amtrak. I was very glad to see the Worcester Union Station come back to life.

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sojourner
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Thanks for the info T Black & Bob & all. I will be giving you a report on the trip . . .
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sojourner
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This little trip to 2 state capitals worked out fine. I took an Empire Svc down to NYC; these morning trains that originate in Albany are generally close to right on time, but there are currently slight delays because of track repair, so I think we were about 20 minutes late. I had the usual lovely run down the Hudson. In NYC I stayed with a friend (it's great to be able to do that, what with hotels there being so high!), dropping off my luggage & then heading to the Museum of Natural History & did a little shopping at Filene’s Basement nearby. I a shwarma for lunch in a tiny, inexpensive Mideastern place & a light dinner at a Spanish tapas place, both on Amsterdam Av.

Next morning I caught a very early Regional train to Boston. I had not been on the NYC-to-Boston line beyond New Haven in a very very long time (though recently I took the line as far as New Haven on the Vermonter to Hartford). The train was not as busy as they are in the other direction (NYC to Philly and DC), and I had a seat all to myself. I sat on the right, as recommended here, but went to sit on the left in the lounge for the NYC departure over the Hellgate, for the good NYC view; went back to my seat around where we left the Bronx. I enjoyed the trip quite well, many places to see the Sound, esp great around New London and Mystic CT. I've been to the latter (by car, quite a few years ago) but would like to visit the former . . . and I still want to take one of those neat ferries we passed, from Long Island to New London, something I planned but still haven’t gotten around to doing.

We got into Boston right on time, and I had about an hour before catching my Concord Transit bus to Concord, NH. I spend some of it familiarizing myself with Boston South station, checking out the location of the ACELA lounge and the very excellent homemade ice cream they sell in the middle of the station (Obscene Chocolate was truly that--it was my lunch, since I was less tempted by the other fast food venues). I headed over the adjoining bus terminal, very easy to do from Track 1, with ramp and escalator (coming back, elevator) and waited for my bus. The bus was not bad at all, but busy--almost everyone had to share a seat, including me. I sat on the aisle, which was more comfortable, leg-room-wise. I was gratified to see a big picture of a cell phone with a line through it--though one woman was using hers anyway (probably didn’t see the sign), so I was glad I brought my Walkman! Besides, I cannot read much on a bus (it makes me carsick--never happens on a train) so the music helps pass the time. Scenerywise, after we crossed a nice newish bridge (one of those harplike wire spoke ones, don't know the name) and left Boston, the drive was mostly dull highway (why do trees always look better from the train?) until we stopped in Manchester, which was interesting to see, esp the big canal there (I think it's a canal) and some former mill architecture along it.

We reached Concord right on time but it was still past 1 and since I wanted to fit in as much as I could, I took a taxi to the Holiday Inn, even though it was really quite close for walking. My room was ready and I got my gear in, washed up a bit, and headed out to the Franklin Pearse Manse, which closes at 3. The walk up Main St was tricky at first because of pretty heavy traffic, but then the street I went down was quiet, lined with old homes and barns, dating at least to the 1800s, perhaps some older. The Pierse Manse at the end of it was interesting—moved there from further downtown to save it from demolition, I gather! I had a good tour, learning all about a president that I mainly knew because of his association with Hawthorne. I then headed back whence I came but this time on State St, where the traffic crossings were easier, passing the old cemetery where Pierce is buried--I didn't go inside because I was hurrying back to the statehouse, which closes at 4. They do only self-guided tours but I took one; it was pretty nice; also checked out the statuary out front. I tooled around some more downtown, including the famous Barley House where I gather a lot of NH primary pols visit--it has a sign outside “The Road to the White House begins at the Barley House”--it’s in the old Eagle Hotel, no longer a hotel but lots of shops. Behind it is Eagle Square, with the NH state museum in an old stone building, once a store or light factory of some sort, I think--but since it was after 4:00 I decided not to pay for a visit. Eventually, I returned to my hotel, quite a nice Holiday Inn. They have delicious cookies in the lobby in the late afternoon and also had given me a free voucher for a drink at the restaurant bar, which I brought up to my room. During primary season, a lot of pols stay here too--one of the clerks at the front desk told me that Bill Richardson had been there recently, and that Rudy Giuliani announced his candidacy from their ballroom. But it isn’t so busy yet, and the Triple A rate I got was quite reasonable. I had dinner in a Thai restaurant down the street, which was pretty good, and crashed fairly early.

Next morning I caught an early bus into Boston and used one of my passes from Amtrak Select to access the ACELA lounge. I then had time to do a nice little downtown walk, passing the Custom House, going briefly into Faneuil Hall & around Quincy Market, also saw from the outside the Old Statehouse, the Old Meeting House, the old City Hall (pretty impressive building and now a Ruth n Chris’s Steakhouse!), went into the Granary Burial Ground to see the graves of Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, and John Hancock, among others. Then I went to the statehouse and did a self-guided tour (they had their own tours but times weren't working out). This is a very impressive capitol, really some lovely architecture and interior design. I then walked up to Beacon Hill and saw Louisburg Square and a few more streets before cutting back through Boston Common toward the train station. I had a fabulous little Chilean sandwich called a chacarero for lunch near Filene’s and walked down to the canal behind the station but did not have time to see the harbor. Got back right in time to board the Lakeshore Ltd at noon to Albany! The portion from Boston to Springfield, which I’ve never traveled before, is perhaps not as scenic as the portion over the Berkshires--but then, even the Berkshire portion was not as scenic as it was when it did it last April, before the trees leafed in and blocked some of the views--but, anyway, it’s still quite a nice little trip, a lazy loop into Albany--and we got in early.

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TBlack
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From the timing of your last 2 posts, you were in Boston on Friday? Knowing that 449 leaves at noon, and that you were starting the day in Concord, NH, I wasn't sure how you were going to get the time to do all that you wanted to do in Boston. But you managed it! You must walk pretty fast to have covered all that ground...and it was pretty hot last week in Bean Town. Impressive!
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sojourner
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It WAS hot. But I caught a 6AM bus from Concord and got in 7:45AM to Boston. I had planned on the 7AM bus out of Concord but was up really early so I figured, hey, I may as well leave, I'll see more of Boston, miss some of the traffic coming into the city (though there was plenty even though we got in at 7:45), and start out when it's cooler. The bus company didn't care if I changed my time (I had checked on that the day before). I did miss the hotel breakfast, but that was OK--I had taken a couple of their delicious cookies the day before and had those for breakfast instead, plus some water and a banana.
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musicfan
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Enjoyed your trip report.

Quote
......" I had a good tour, learning all about a president that I mainly knew because of his association with Hawthorne............""

Nathanial Hawthorne I presume, really love "The Scarlett Letter."
Besides the story itself, I find the introduction "The custom house" about the authors time working for Uncle Sam in the Port of Salem Mass. to be really amusing.
Great description of a time gone by, except is it?
Government still seems to work or not work about the same.

Talking about Boston and New England also reminds of a book I very recently read by Janet Whitney, a biography named for "Abigail Adams" wife of the second American President, John Adams.
Thankfully Abigail wrote a lot of letters in her lifetime to her husband, children, relatives and friends and these were preserved.
The form the author used was to place actual quotes from the characters personal letters for the dialogue, but to set them many times in conversation or in a form of direct correspondence for the sake of dramatic effect and continuity.
Very fun to read and it made me feel like I got to know Abigail and her family, while also telling the story of the times.
Besides the story of the American Revolution, it was also interesting to learn other tidbits, like the fact that Boston was the largest city in the country at a mere 16,000 people when they were young adults. And their rural farm was in the Braintree/Quincy area, now totally urban, complete with subway!
They also had the chance to travel to Paris before the French Revolution when John was a sort of Ambassador, and later on actually met King George in England face to face after we had won the Revolution. Abigail seemed to respect the King, but thought his wife, the queen was pretty pathetic.
Anyway, all that has nothing to do with Amtrak or your trip, but so be it.

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sojourner
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In fact, the actual Salem Custom House job was given to Hawthorne by Pierce, his old friend from Bowdoin College. And had Hawthorne not had the job, presumably he could not have written the Scarlet Letter, so indirectly we have Pierce to thank for one of the classic American novels. I also have a vague recollection of Pierce giving Hawthorne a post as American consul in England, but I could be wrong on that. And I definitely recall reading that Hawthorne was traveling with Pierce when he died, on some kind of mountain hike or something, so if Pierce instigated the trip, maybe we can also indirectly blame him for his friend's untimely death and the loss of more classic novels.

At least giving a writer like Hawthorne the Custom House sinecure produced something of value. Nowadays, it seems like politicians' patronage produces nothing beyond thicker bank accounts and fun experiences for their pals.

Re Abigail and John, I would definitely like to get down to Quincy some time, taking the train or a bus, I suppose. I read their letters--well, not all, but quite a few--in The Book of Abigail and John, I think it's called. Very charming and interesting reading.

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