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Patrick was our sleeper attendant on the Empire Builder, the most charismatic, dynamic and efficient Amtrak employee to date. Nothing was too much trouble for him and his knowledge of the route such that he was often on hand to give advice about up-coming photo-opportunities. He was also the main presenter of the wine-tasting, combined with an amusing quiz, which I presume he had devised. He also found himself helping out in the dining-car as an extra waiter, as Jay had done on the Lakeshore, but then he was a waiter-turned-sleeper attendant! Everything Patrick did was done with a smile and an impish sense of humour. There was no trace of servility or obsequiousness about him, nor was he over-familiar; obviously a man who really enjoyed his work and working with people. How does Amtrak reward those employees who through their general demeanour enhance its reputation? I know from various forums that there are employees who do not fit the bill. We left St Paul's about an hour late, as the last bus from Chicago did not arrive until around 10.45. For an hour or so we chatted with our friends in the lounge-car, relaxing after the stress and tensions of the day.This something you would not be able to do in the U.K. at that time of night. The sunrise, commented on by several passengers, was spectacular. It was presumably so prolonged as we were travelling westwards. The interior of our bedroom, compared with the Zephyr in 2005, had been updated and the shower seemed easier to use.There was no need for sticky tape and there were no rattles.By the time we reached the dining car there was already a waiting-list. Compared with the Lakeshore and Starlight the dining car ran to capacity and with a chef on board the food items which were cooked to order were of a high quality. My eggs, easy over, were cooked to perfection and grits and fresh "biscuits" were available. Again the staff, we were mainly served by Don, were cheerful and positive. While not being spectacular, the scenery of North Dakota and Montana was more interesting than we had anticipated. Something missed the previous day on the enforced bus journey along the Interstate were those small american towns who owe their very existence to the railway. There is always something to see as you pass through them, even if it is just the occasional grain silo and a few sidings. And for the visitor from abroad a fleeting glimpse of small-town life. Lunch was by reservation, my beef sandwich very tasty and almost too much. One of the attractions of Amtrak travel is the people you meet at meal-times. Every meal so far has been enjoyable. Usually you do not meet the same people again, but on this trip we did. Our lunch pertners on the Coast Starlight almost a week later. They, like us were retired, and used Amtrak a lot, and were very positive about the experience, apart from puntuality. Most of the regular travellers we spoke to seemed to understand the reasons for trains in the west running late and were tolerant. Is the attitude the same on the east coast, where Amtrak own the tracks and where, because of its direct competition with the airlines, there presumably are many more business travellers? As already mentioned the wine-tasting was a piece-de-resistance by Patrick. At Havre you had to be impressed by the sheer size of the locomotives that operated this route in earlier days. I have noticed the frequency with which equipment from the steam era is displayed in the U.S. Communities by the tracks seem to take a pride in their railroad past. Soon after Shelby the Rockies began to appear in quite amazing light as there was a fair amount of rain about.These views continued as we passed Browning, which gave a glimpse into another aspect of life and society in the U.S. Glacier Park was was decidedly damp and cool but the freshness of the air was welcome. Dinner we had with our friends and it must rank as one of the most pleasant meals my wife and I have experienced. The scenery as we moved into the Rockies was beautiful, the dining-car buzzing with odered activity, the service efficient, attentive and pleasant, my steak cooked to "rare" perfection and so tasty. And, although the dining-car was running to capacity we were under no pressure to leave.The four of us, plus groups at other tables, must have spent almost two hours over our meal, simply relaxing in one of the most civilised ways there is. Also because we were so far north and west we had daylight until Whitefish. There I was able to express my thanks to the chef and comment on the difference his presence made to the standard of the food. He said that that was the very reason why a full dining service was to be returned to the Coast Starlight.The elderly gentleman we were travelling with had pre-Amtrak experience of raiways, both as employee and traveller and he was surprised that on this train at least there was not one more dining-car or lounge, or indeed both! Another wonderful night's sleep and breakfast with a French couple who were also avid Amtrak users.The scenery continued to excite, in an alpine way. My wife thinks she prefers the scenery on the Zephyr route and I agree that the climb after Denver and as far as Glenwood Springs is spectacular. And the ascent from Truckee to the summit of the Sierra Nevada equally so.But I did find the long descent into Roseville somewhat disappointing, bearing in mind the history of that route's construction. Having made the same trip by car this year I found my opinion confirmed. The density of the conifers makes it very difficult to appreciate the grandeur of the scenery. Whereas on the Empire Builder from around Browning to Everett the scenery is beautiful and thereafter to Seattle you have wonderful views over the Puget Sound. One unfortunate lady, bound for Portland, had for some reason, found herself on the wrong portion of the train and was now headed for Seattle. It is difficult to understand how something like that can happen. Attendants know where their passengers are bound and the conductor makes his/her rounds after every stop.She was quite philosophical about it and seemed to think it must have been her fault. We arrived thirty minutes early into Seattle, despite having been stopped a couple of times earlier in the morning to allow freight trains to pass. A really wonderful experience! Coast Starlight to follow.
Posts: 168 | From: uk. northumberland | Registered: Jun 2007
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Splendid trip report. Your story of the lady who was in the wrong section of the train when it split reminds me of a story I heard from a number of veteran sleeper attendants more than a decade ago.
On the California Zephyr, a woman bound for L.A. in one of the then three sections of the train met a man bound for San Francisco in the lounge car. (The train split at Salt Lake City.) After they had several drinks, nature took its course and they repaired to the man's sleeper room. At dawn the woman awakened and suddenly realized she was heading for San Francisco but her luggage was on the way to Los Angeles.
"Oh, God!" she said. "What am I going to tell my husband?"
I thought this a great story until another sleeper attendant told it to me in virtually the same words, with the man going to Boston and the woman to New York and the train splitting at Albany.
This tale is probably in every sleeper attendant's repertoire.
Posts: 2236 | From: Evanston, Ill. and Ontonagon, Mich. | Registered: Feb 2007
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What a wonderful report!!. We enjoyed our trip on the EB last July and your review brought back great memories. We are riding the Coast Starlight in January and look forward to your report on the CS as well.
Posts: 87 | From: Ohio | Registered: Apr 2007
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Thanks for the excellent report. Although I do find the Zephyr the MOST scenic, the CS and EB and SWC are all pretty wonderful too, in my book. And I love going into the sunset over the Mississippi on the EB westbound.
When I was on the EB last May, I boarded myself in Chicago and made the stupid mistake of getting onto the Portland sleeper, but that was soon corrected by the attendant. I don't see how you could be in the wrong part of the train when you board & get your ticket checked. However, I suppose if you left your seat and fell asleep in the wrong place before Spokane, some one might not notice in the dark train, and you could leave on the wrong one. But you'd then be without your baggage, wouldn't you?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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LOL-WHAT? No fans of the Slugset Limited? Who could resist sitting in one spot of dirt in AZ or NM for hrs on end averaging a speed of 15mph??? "Look Junior! Another pile of dirt!" C'mon people! LOL
-------------------- Patrick Posts: 387 | From: Bakersfield, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Forgive my naivete Mr/Ms maniac but could you please explain what you are talking about? I don't have a clue and as a matter of curiousity I am interested
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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quote:Originally posted by train lady: Forgive my naivete Mr/Ms maniac but could you please explain what you are talking about? I don't have a clue and as a matter of curiousity I am interested
I think it is Mr., since it is signed Patrick. the train being referenced is the Sunset Limited and its really poor on time performance, which seems to be everybody's favorite whipping boy.
Thanks to much of the line being overwhelmed with traffic, it is quite common to spend long periods of time in various sidings that are miles from any sign of civilization waiting for freights, track repairs, you name it.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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Thanks George. I figured it was Mr but then some people do disguise their dentity so I wasn't sure. As to sitting at nothing in the middle of nowhere that is when I pull out a book and enjoy the time.
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Wonderful report! I am happy you enjoyed your trip. Nice scenery,friendly fellow passengers,full dining service, a great crew, and comfortable sleepers make for a happy train ride!
Posts: 498 | From: New Hope, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Appologies for the sarcasm. One trip on the Sunset (aka Slugset)is the perfect cure for train travel fever. Stick with the other long distance trains. My personal favorite is the California Zephyr.
Posts: 387 | From: Bakersfield, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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