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January has been a very hectic month for me, so I post my Christmas holiday trip on Amtrak and Via a little late. Sorry if it is too long, I did try to condense it as much as possible.
I had a long trip beginning Dec 18 2007 from my home in Toronto. Starting with The Canadian, Train #1 to Vancouver, where I connected with the Cascade #517 to Seattle, and from there to Los Angeles on the Coast Starlight, Train #11. I stayed about five days with relatives in Las Vegas (I rented a car from L.A. as there is no longer a Desert Wind). On my way back home, I departed Los Angeles on the SW Chief #4 to Chicago, connecting with the Lake Shore Ltd #48 to Rochester, with my final train, #63 the Maple Leaf, back to Toronto.
Starting with The Canadian on Tuesday the 18th, my extra-large bedroom F was waiting for me with all the usual amenities placed on board (soap, shampoo extra large towels, chocolates, route guides and so forth). This Manor car bedroom was once a Compartment in the days of the CPR and it was an extra fare over the other bedrooms, but Via now charges you the same price as a regular bedroom. It is a most comfortable accommodation and I was reluctant to leave it in Vancouver. We departed Toronto about 15 minutes late as we were held for a connecting train, and our arrival in Vancouver was a little over two hours late due to a variety of CN delays.
Dining on The Canadian is always a pleasure, with a menu that has different selections for all meals everyday of your journey. I won’t recite the menu here as it is available on-line, but from the freshly prepared eggs at breakfast to prime rib at dinner, it was always excellent.
One downside with winter travelling is the short day for viewing in the Rockies, and that the landscape is universally white. However the shorter train and lower prices makes up for the viewing deficit.
Although we were over two hours late arriving in Vancouver, I still had almost eight hours in Vancouver, so I took a day room at a hotel, and had lunch at a new restaurant in the old CPR station. Although the restaurant was called The Transcontinental with a railway motif, it was basically just bar food, nothing special or elegant.
Arriving back at Vancouver’s Pacific Central station for the 6:00 pm departure of #517, I proceeded to U.S. customs for their x-ray examination of the luggage. The inspector was suspicious of what he thought was some sort of unsealed bottle. I did confess to having about a quarter of a bottle of gin and another full bottle that was sealed. My partially consumed bottle of Bombay gin was seized by the U.S. inspector with the ridiculous excuse that I could not have an unsealed bottle on the train. He put a Via receipt tag on the bottle, and said I could retrieve it in Seattle. Of course upon arriving in Seattle my gin was nowhere to be seen. Most likely the customs official was having a G&T with my gin. I demanded to see the Seattle station agent the next morning, who told me they had no record of what happened to my gin bottle, and he doesn’t understand why U.S. customs seizes these bottles as Amtrak has no objection to passengers bringing their own liquor on the trains. Of the many times I crossed the border at Seattle/Vancouver this has never happened to me, next time I’ll put the excess gin in an empty water bottle.
Train 517 departed Vancouver on time, but was more than an hour late into Seattle. No Talgo equipment, just two superliner coaches and a combination diner lounge (I believe the so-called diner lite). If I remember correctly this newly refurbished car consisted of small cocktail lounge type tables with seats that faced the aisle. As a lounge it was all right, but it would not have been a very good dining car. I purchased a Caesar salad from the attendant and a half bottle of white wine (brand or region I can’t recall). By the way some progress has been made to King St. Station, but there is still a long way to go on its refurbishment.
I stayed the night in Seattle at the Marriott Springhill Suites hotel, and the next morning I boarded #11. I asked the conductor who collected my ticket in the station if there was a parlour car, but alas there was none. Also there was no extra lounge for the sleeping car passengers, which caused much moaning and wailing from some people. I had an un-refurbished superliner II car (New Mexico) and my Bedroom E was in good shape with working toilets and lots of hot water. I was pleased to see an end of the SDS dining car service and a new menu with flatiron steak, fish, Cornish hen and a vegetarian dish of some sort. I was disappointed in the steak as it was tough as shoe leather and I had to ask for a sharp steak knife in my attempts to hack through it. For the next dinner, I had a very tasty fish (salmon I believe). For breakfast I had a reasonably good omelette, and for lunch a “build your own burger” that was quite tasty. Cloth napkins have returned with stainless steel cutlery, but the dishes and water glasses were plastic and the table “cloth” was paper. A much improved meal experience from my last trip on this train a year ago. For the wine tasting, on the first day it was held in the dining car, and on the second day the attendant in my 1130 sleeper brought it to our rooms. He was also very generous with the wine, certainly much more than a “tasting.”
For the first time ever in my many rides on the Coast Starlight, we arrived at our destination on time!! Actually about three minutes early. Maybe UP had light traffic during the Christmas season.
I spent the night in L.A. at the downtown Marriott, and the next day drove my Hertz Grand Marquis to Las Vegas for Christmas. Upon returning to Los Angeles on the 28th, I boarded the SW Chief #4 bound for Chicago. I was pleased to see that my 430 sleeper (no name) was one of the newly refurbished ones with faux wood and all new plumbing, i.e. new sinks, taps, toilet and shower. However I was rather annoyed to see that there were no hooks anywhere in the bedroom (I was assigned D). As I carry a garment bag, that is quite inconvenient. The tiny closet can barely hold a few shirts and coats. I did manage to squeeze the garment bag hook on the top of the shower door. The Chief had the exact same menu as the Starlight, and as I recall for the first’s night dinner I had a rather tasty hen, preceded by a few bits of lettuce that Amtrak calls a salad. I had rice instead of potato, and altogether could not really complain about the dinner. One rather odd thing about taking reservations on this train was that instead of giving out those little reservation slips, the chief steward just took down the time when you wanted dinner and your name. So at the appointed time he would announce over the PA, “Calling Jones, Smith etc. for the 7:00 pm sitting.”
This train was mostly on-time, with the occasional delay at a few points, and we arrived a few minutes early into Chicago. I am pleased to report that the staff was polite, if a little rough around the edges when it comes to addressing the passengers, or greeting people in the dining car. On The Canadian it is always “Good evening sir or madam, how many for dinner? Perhaps you would like this table facing forward.” On Amtrak, “ok how many people? You guys can sit here.” Guys meaning either ladies or gentlemen. On The Canadian the sleeping car attendant will almost always come by to see if you need anything and will ask if you need assistance with your luggage. On Amtrak, it is frequently a struggle to persuade the attendant that you do want your luggage taken down the stairs and placed on the platform. On #4 my attendant was very good about the luggage and putting down the bed, but something I’ve never heard before came over the loudspeaker in the 430 car “would you guys throw your towels and pillow cases in the hall way and I will come by and pick them up.” How very not first class.
Since I had most of the afternoon and evening for my connecting #48 The Lake Shore Ltd., I decided to go up Jackson Blvd. to the Union League Club where I have reciprocal membership from my club in Toronto. Since it was a Sunday very little was going on and the main dining room was closed. I was disappointed that only their bar was open with a limited menu so I decided to go elsewhere to eat, but I did sit for a few hours in one of their beautiful lounges reading newspapers and travel magazines.
On the Lake Shore Ltd. I was assigned Bedroom “B” in Cape View, and the passengers boarded at about 8:30 pm for a 10:00 pm departure. Amtrak offered a wine tasting in the dining car along with some cheese and grapes. I didn’t stay very long as I was tired and wanted to go to bed. My excellent sleeping car attendant had put down my bed and I retired before the train departed Chicago. Everything worked in my car, and I had plenty of hot water in the shower. The next morning I was disappointed to see that we were on time for my Buffalo arrival. I say disappointed since I had a long connection with the Maple Leaf for Toronto and I was hoping the Late for Sure Ltd would live up to its name. No such luck, so I decided to stay on the train to Rochester, the next stop, where the connection with the Maple Leaf would be shorter. My attendant had no problem with my change in plans, but he said someone had booked my bedroom at Buffalo so he moved me to a roomette for the one hour ride to Rochester.
All my plans for a short wait in Rochester went out the window when I was told by the station agent that the Toronto bound Maple Leaf was stuck behind a broken down freight somewhere east of Rochester. So after a five hour wait in Rochester I boarded my business class car bound for Toronto. This car was one of those half business class half café cars. It was full so I was lucky to have the last available seat in this 2 and 1 configured car. Comfortable seats and lots of leg room, but I still wouldn’t take it all the way to New York for an over 12 hour ride from Toronto.
I finally made it back to Toronto two hours late, which is not too bad for this train. I decided to try this connection off the Lake Shore as an experiment, but I won’t do it again—just too much waiting time.
In summary, a good trip and I am looking forward to doing this again next Christmas.
Posts: 524 | From: Toronto Ont. Canada | Registered: Mar 2001
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As a gin and tonic drinker myself, I sympathise with Royaltrain's incovenience of having it confiscated. After a trip on the Canadian to Winnipeg - in accomodations more humble than the spacious bedroom F - I had to fly home to Toronto. My friends had given me a bottle of gin to take home, but as I was flying light with only a small carry-on bag, I had to leave the gin with them. I will retrieve it on my next trip to Winnipeg. Until a few years ago, airline security would seize any opened bottles of alcohol, but let you take a sealed bottle with you. But now, any liquid, gel, paste that is over 100 ml will be confiscated.
Although I also had a great trip on the Canadian and would prefer to go both ways by rail, the Winnipeg to Toronto segment is the one I fear the most. There is a far greater chance of arriving in Toronto in the middle of the night or not arriving at all because VIA sometimes gets naughty and will refuse to run the train to Toronto when it is very late. The thought of a bus trip from Capreol to Toronto fills me with horror - especially in winter weather.
Posts: 216 | From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Jul 2000
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Thanks for the trip report. Although, that is so darn typical of Amtrak to get employees like you describe. The attendant asking everyone to throw their towels and pillowcases out in the aisle is RIDICULOUS! I hope that attendant did not get a big tip, or no tip at all, since you did the work for them.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
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"We are not GUYS. We are first class passengers and we should be addressed appropriately!"
That's what I always want to say to the young men and women who call us "you guys" (or, if they're from Chicago, "youse guys"). I never do, though. I'm chicken.
The older attendants, the veterans, are much more formal in their mode of address. I have had some who memorized their passengers' names and addressed me as "Mr. Kisor" without fail.
Posts: 2236 | From: Evanston, Ill. and Ontonagon, Mich. | Registered: Feb 2007
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Related to Mr. Royal's incident, it appears Amtrak enforces their "no alcohol in any salon (open) cars" unless purchased from Amtrak, with apparent 'spottiness'. I once got nailed about two years ago. With a purchased Snack aboard #30 around Martinsburg, the Snack Bar had no wine left, but the Diner did have a "half' of Kendall Jackson Chardonnay that the 'Lead" was happy to sell me. But that was simply 'too much' at Lunch. So I corked it, and since during the layover at Wash between 30 and 148 I "had one" at Center Cafe' in the Main Hall, I didn't get to the remainder of the "half' until aboard 148 in Business Class en route to Stamford. I had it sitting on the unoccupied seat of the pair when a Conductrix comes up and tactfully says 'I'm sorry sir, but we cannot allow alcohol we didn't sell you to consumed in here '. 'But Ma'am, I did buy this from Amtrak in the Capitol Limited's Diner", and I showed her my receipt for such. A tactful smile, and a 'I'm very sorry; please accept my apology". End of story.
Posts: 9976 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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I agreed completely, Henry. I never thought I looked like a guy. The time it irritates me the most is on cooking shows when the chef refers to the food he is cooking a guys..like "drain this guy on brown paper." I feel like a cannibal
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Mr. Norman, regarding the gin incident in Vancouver it was U.S. customs that seized the open bottle, Amtrak didn't care. Just as long as you don't drink your own liquor supply on-board (except in bedrooms) Amtrak would not seize an open bottle of liquor. I thought of writing to U.S. customs demanding a bottle of gin, but I seriously doubt the effort would be worth the price of a postage stamp.
Posts: 524 | From: Toronto Ont. Canada | Registered: Mar 2001
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I'm sitting here wishing that my Amtrak Guest Reward Points could be redeemed on VIA!
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by notelvis: I'm sitting here wishing that my Amtrak Guest Reward Points could be redeemed on VIA!
Too bad there's not a program similar to Star Alliance with the airlines. That would be MOST excellent.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
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