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Thanks to all of you answering questions and recommending places we had a wonderful time. The route was the Southwest Chief Los Angeles to Chicago, Empire Builder Chicago to Portland and Coast Starlight Portland to Los Angeles. Along the way we stayed in various cities for a few days and also took a trip around Lake Michigan which used the Hiawatha and Pere Marquette services. A private car ride was included. Here goes the summary.
The Chief left Los Angeles on time at 6:45 pm on June 14th. We were in the last car, 431, roomette #2. We found we like roomette #2 because we can see if the room attendant is around, if the bathroom is in use and can slip over to the bathroom quickly in our various night clothing. Also, since room #1 is essentially vacant during the daytime we can see out that side of the car too. Joan was our attendant and she was excellent, a 30 year employee. Dinner service was very slow, one table waited 40 minutes to get their food. The steward said "the staff had been cut from 7 to 4". Food was also so-so. Our table mate found the cod to be inedible, dry and tasteless.
After the usual fitfull sleep we were both up at 5:30 am, it had been light for a while already. We arrived Flagstaff at 6:00, down one hour. Spent quite a bit of time in the lounge observation car this morning, nice scenery of red rock cliffs. The NPS folks did not board for their presentation, it only occurs about 3 days a week at this time. Saw antelope along the way and it was very slow as we paralleled highway 25 through New Mexico. Clouds appeared and it ultimately rained a bit but cleared by Las Vegas at which point we were down 2 hours. Excellent track thereafter and we made good time. Saw a lot of pronghorn antelope, deer and elk. At dinner, the second of the two dinners on the route, the diner was out of three of the entrees. Perhaps they didn't know how many of us were coming??? The SWC crosses Kansas during the night, all night. Sleeping as usual (not) I saw all the stops, Garden City, Dodge City, etc. Each one seemed to have bigger grain silos.
By morning we were near Topeka - quite green, misty, low hills. We ran along a large river, the Caw, and into a large train yard, Kansas City coming up. We refueled at Argentine and then stopped at KC. The Missouri Mule was parked next to us. Now we were only 1.5 hours down, our toilet was still working, Joan kept the BR clean and had coffee ready early in the morning. We crossed the Missouri River on a great bridge. At lunch we tested something new - ordered hot dogs which are on the children's menu (apparently a secret menu since we had never seen it). Got a nice grilled ***, much better than the nuked ones in the lounge. We crossed the Mississippi at Fort Madison, IA. The two engines and baggage car that had derailed a few days before, causing massive bustitution for the SWC both directions, were still in the station. We proceded on to Illinois. Corn is being grown everywhere, we saw no other crops all this way. The great ethanol plot I guess. By Mendota we were 2 hours down, it was 97 degrees outside and we were almost there. Arrived Chicago at 5:15, about 2 hours late. A red cap with cart was right there, good thing as it was a long walk to the inner station from that very last car. No problem getting a taxi to the Palmer House. The hotel was very busy, has construction going on as well as masses of people. Bit of a rain storm as we arrived and the city was so busy - just full of people on the streets, cars, buses and the "L" - what a noisy creature that is.
We met Gil Norman at our hotel and taxied to the Navy Pier. Had a great dinner at Riva but, as Gil noted, it was very noisy. The entire Pier was wall to wall people. We had a wild taxi ride back to the hotel, I couldn't see much which was just as well as Art and Gil said we went through red lights galore. We were able to find a quiet spot in the pub and talk a bit more until Gil left for his train home and we went to bed, a welcome real bed, not a roomette. By the way, the Palmer House is nice but they think that if you want a microwave in your room it would be worth $35 and a continental breakfast via room service was $16 plus $4.50 fee plus 15%. You also had to allow 45 minutes for the valet to deliver your car. We had breakfast at Miller's Pub next door and it was great and not too expensive. Wonderful sausages in Chicago, much better than the anemic things we get in LA.
We walked all over, to Millenium Park, nice gardens, but it got hotter and hotter. So we took a Gray Line tour of downtown which was good. We joined our group of 15 at Lawry's for a grand prime rib dinner and prepared for our departure to Milwaukee. Next installment will continue the trip.
Conclusions on the SWC - pretty good timeliness for over 2,000 mile trip. SDS meals, same as the other routes, only so-so, tolerable but not something to look forward to. Scenery very good. Staff - excellent room attendant, slow dining service, probably are short handed there. Equipment - we had the blue cars, Superliner II (?) with the minute bathroom, but it did function all the way, elevations included. All together a good trip.
-------------------- Vicki in usually sunny Southern California Posts: 951 | From: Redondo Beach, CA | Registered: Aug 2006
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Here is my version of the hookup between Msii Vickie and Mr Art and myself June 16 (moved from Miss Vickie's earlier "anticipation" topic):
Unlike 4(14)carrying Mr. Art and Miss Vickie, BNSF 1318 left 18.34 (station is actually more like 18.30) smack on time @452P with the standard METRA weekend practice of two locomotives in consist. Arrival at CUS also "smack on' 540P; what value especially @ my $1.70 Senior Citizen fare. I could see #4(14)'s consist so I knew they were "somewhere in the Loop'. From there it was hoof over to their hotel, Palmer House, with "raindrops keep falling on my head' (but not exactly "Singing in the rain").
We met in the lobby with cacophonous noise from a wedding party in the background. From there a "safe and sane" taxicab ride to our preselected restaurant on Navy Pier, Riva.
As far as I'm concerned they have excellent steaks, and I believe Miss Vickie and Mr. Art will think same regarding their seafood selections. Their wine list is "adequate" although a Viognier varietal that they offered on a previous visit of mine there simply "wasn't'. However, Mr. Art will tell you they have a bartender who knows what a Rob Roy is.
But alas this was Saturday night in town (and Chicago is not exactly Die Tote Stadt) and at my age where weekday matinee performances and Early Bird seatings are "my thing", the noise level at Riva simply made conversation amongst us difficult to impossible. Worst yet, they were setting up for a party of twelve adjacent to our table - we were finished and otherwise "outta there".
Unfortunately, it seems like the Navy Pier scene, unlike my regular Orchestra Hall scene, is simply pitched to the "under 35 demographic". While likely on a weeknight the scene would not have been as deafening, this is when Miss Vickie and Mr Art were in town - and this is when it would be.
Well, after a Tijuana Taxi ride back to Palmer House (I defer to Miss Vickie for an account of how many reds this clown ran with us as his hostages), we found that the bar at Miller's Pub on Wabash in the Palmer House building was peaceful, so we did have a chance to exchange life's experiences.
At about 930PM we broke camp; I walked back to CUS for the 1030P home. It is indeed heartening to see that Chicago is again a city where young people (including young women who could perhaps have "a little more on") feel comfortable walking about The Loop after dark, fifteen years ago, this would not be the case.
Indeed a pleasure to meet this absolutely delightful couple.
Posts: 9979 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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Sounds lovely. Thanks so much for your trip and meeting reports so far!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Great report, Vicki!! I think it is rather unusual for the SWC to be that late, but it wasn't too terribly bad, I guess. Looking forward to the next installment. I'm glad you guys also had a chance to meet the legendary Gilbert B Norman -- sounds like you had a nice visit and get-together.
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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Here are the pictures that go with this report. Let me know if I labeled anything wrong. And sorry for the many reflections. I try to get right next to the window but then the train moves and I have to move the camera. That train should be more cooperative!
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Great pictures and report, Vicki! It's starting to look like my first outing post "bionic hip" on the 24th will be on the EB so I'm especially looking forward to that part of the report.
Sorry I wasn't able to join the elite club of those who have met you and Art when you passed through SBA.
Frank in Gorgeous (but very warm and dry) SBA!
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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The comments about Rob Roys piqued my curiosity. Does Norm or Mr. Art have some secret recipe? Care to share? I'd like to know since I'm thinking about moving beyond Boone's Farm and becoming more sophisticated.
Posts: 445 | Registered: May 2002
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Zephyr - Art always asks if the bartender knows how to make a Rob Roy. If they come back and say "what kind of bourbon is used" or "tell me how and I will make it" he just goes for straight scotch. It is surprising how many do not know what it is. And to assist in your sophistication program it is scotch and sweet vermouth, just like a Manhattan which uses bourbon instead. Usually served with a cherry, Art prefers it without the fruit. As you can tell from his report, Gil is the one to consult about wines.
-------------------- Vicki in usually sunny Southern California Posts: 951 | From: Redondo Beach, CA | Registered: Aug 2006
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HRU, in NY (including Manhattan), I believe rye is used to make a Manhattan, not bourbon. If you want bourbon, you have to ask for it.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Miss Vicki, thank you very much for helping me out on my sophistication program. You're the greatest.
Now if I could only get Gilbert to help me out on becoming a wine connoisseur. Mr. Norman, say I want to try a wine more sophisticated than Boone's Farm (though their Strawberry Hill and Kountry Kwencher are hard to beat). Would you suggest trying a MD 20/20, or a Thunderbird?
Posts: 445 | Registered: May 2002
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I remember my parents ordering Rob Roys and Manhattans frequently. There was also one called a Perfect Manhattan.
Vicki, your photos are excellent. I especially enjoyed seeing the infamous Mr. Norman in your collection. It was a treat to meet you and Art in MSP.
I hope Zephyr does not enlist the help of any of us zip code 5 types in his sophistication program. We might only advise him to change to a different sleeveless T-shirt after spilling an excess of Old Milwaukee on it. In most circles it is also expected that one crush the can to display just the proper amount of machismo.
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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If there is any interest on Mr. Zephyr's part in expanding knowledge of grape juice, a good start is the 2004 Oscar nominee movie "Sideways". If your system supports video, IMDB has a great "trailer" for such.
Even if the storyline "stinks' (those two guys are both real dirt balls) and there is only one actor of note in the cast (Sandra Oh), there is some excellent script conveying how passionate some can be about a glass of grape juice. I could be mistaken, but somehow I like to think at least three of the leading cast members actually "like the stuff' in their off-screen life.
Also, there is excellent on-location footage about Santa Barbara "grape juice country".
Posts: 9979 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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quote:Originally posted by TwinStarRocket: I hope Zephyr does not enlist the help of any of us zip code 5 types in his sophistication program. We might only advise him to change to a different sleeveless T-shirt after spilling an excess of Old Milwaukee on it. In most circles it is also expected that one crush the can to display just the proper amount of machismo.
Sissy Zip 5'ers. Where I come from, it's culturally expected to smash a dead Thunderbird bottle over your buddy's head. To not do so is considered a sign you are uncaring, unsophisticated, and attended private schools.
Mr. Norman's mention of "grape juice country" brought to mind "it ain't just Napa no more." There's vineyards sprouting up everywhere. Like Oklahoma, where I had a very fine local red a couple of weeks ago. I'll be in North Dakota next week, and I've learned there are wineries there (does that give you some idea how I plan my trips?). I'll let you know if Minot will be the next St. Helena.
By the way, did anyone catch the wine judging for this year's California State Fair? Double-gold for chardonnay went to Two Buck Chuck (aka Charles Shaw). Causing quite a buzz in the wine center of the universe.
Footnote: No, Mr. Rocket, Old Milwaukee did not place in the beer rankings, though it might win some obscure ribbon in judging done in the livestock area (like maybe best commercial product for flea and tick control).
Posts: 445 | Registered: May 2002
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Thank you Vicki for the pictures and the report. I appreciated viewing pictures of you and Art. I myself enjoy straight scotch on ice (JW Red, or Dewar's). But last night I was enjoying Drambuie on the rocks while at a New Hope cabaret performance by Ann Hampton Callaway. Your photos from the last car of the SW Chief convince me that tail end observation cars should be mandated....sigh. Also pictures of fabulous Chicago, and Gilbert were a wonderful bonus. Thank you, Fred
Posts: 498 | From: New Hope, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Thanks you for posting the photos, Vicki! They are very good!! Our alcohol preferences are very simple -- Miller Light beer or Sutter Home white zinfandel wine -- does that make us "unsophisticated?"
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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Rich, do you mix the Miller Light with the white zin? Is that some sort of Florida version of a Rob Roy?
Posts: 445 | Registered: May 2002
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So zephyr's regional ridicule is not limited to Zip-5. If he makes fun of enough locations, we may be able to identify the more evolved land where he lives.
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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Fabulous photos......Chicago has never looked better!
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Just now got around to viewing the excellent photos. The rounded hill slide just before Raton is a landmark on the Santa Fe Trail - 1821 to 1878.
When viewed traveling south it has the shape of a Conastoga wagon like those on the Trail. Hence the freighters called it Wagon Mound and the small town located at its foot along I-25 has that name.
Posts: 467 | From: Prescott, AZ USA | Registered: Mar 2002
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Nice report and fantastic pictures! I think that was the most comprehsnisve set of images from the SW Chief that I have ever seen. Having never taken that route I was most excited to see them.
And we finally get a shot of Mr. Norman. Not too far off from how I pictured him in my mind, actually.
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Zephyr - No I haven't tried mixing the Miller Light with the white zin yet. Rob Roys? Never had one.........
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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