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I'm getting excited about the upcoming trip . . . and I'd better be, since, given the economy, it could well be my last for too long a time!
Anyway, I have some questions about New Orleans, to which I've never been. I have a good friend who has given me some advice about the city, but she and her husband haven't been there since Katrina, and I gather things have changed. And she knows nothing about traveling there by train . . . . . Note that I am traveling with another friend (female) who is less interested in trains than I am, although she likes a nice view as much as anyone . . . So here are my questions:
1. We have sleeperettes across the corridor from each other on the southbound City of NEw Orleans from Chicago to Jackson MS. I gather there is some good scenery in the morning. In which sleeper should we sit--the one with the view of the right side facing forward??? Also, the next day from Jackson, we are going coach for the last few hours. Again, which side should we sit on?
2. We have been told to try to take a United taxi when we get in at the train station. Is that your advice as well? Is the area for taxis at the train station clearly marked?
3. When we leave, we are taking the Crescent, which leaves in early morning. We will need to check our suitcases. About how early should we get to the train station to do that? And what happens if we don't get there early enough--will the sleeper attendant take care of them if we tip him? I don't usually check suitcases so I'm a little ignorant.
4. On which side of the train are there the best views from the NE-bound Crescent?
5. Is the station in New Orleans called Union Station? What is the Magnolia Room, and where exactly is it located? Is it clearly marked?
6. While in New Orleans, we are planning a little day trip to Baton Rouge--part of my capitals tour. This seems very do-able, since there is a commuter bus, very inexpensive, that leaves from Canal & Elk Place in the morning and gets back about dinnertime. Is that a safe location for 2 women to catch a bus from? (I believe it is outside the French Quarter, where we are staying.)
7. While in New Orleans, is there any special advice you have on (a) taking a streetcar (we'd like to do that--is the St Charles streetcar the one to take); (b) taking a boat ride (should we do that? I find it excited simply to contemplate crossing the Mississippi by boat, or would that be a waste of time?); (c) visiting the famous cemetery (I'm told one should do that but have to be careful re crime and can only take a tour; any input?) (d) music venues (though we are not stay-up-late types we will do a little of this since we are in NEw Orleans!). I think for New Orleans we are esp interested in Dixieland jazz, Cajun music, and acoustic blues . . . . (e) we also plan to visit the MArdi Gras Museum and I'm not sure what else . . . Notice I am not asking re restaurants because I already have so much info on that!!! but of course feel free to offer counsel there as well . . .
Thank you all so much for your advice!!!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Disclaimer: My net experience in New Orleans, other than making connections in Union Station, consists of a single three-day weekend January last year. With that in mind:
1. It's been twenty years since I last took the CONO, and I don't remember much in the way of notable scenery leaving Chicago. However, I do remember the arrival in New Orleans in the morning, coming through the flood gates, by the airport, and right next to a couple of the above-ground cemeteries. The view from the left side of the train, IMO, is to be preferred for the New Orleans approach.
2. I'm not aware of any difference between taxi companies, but there is a clearly marked taxi stand outside the west exit of NOUPT; it is well supplied at train time.
3. Always plan to check luggage AT LEAST thirty minutes before the scheduled departure of your train. A sleeper attendant will be no help; he will tell you to put it all in your room. I don't recall if New Orleans has station redcaps but if they do they may be able to assist with getting your luggage checked and on the train.
4. It's been twenty-five years since I've taken the Crescent, and the only scenic highlight I really remember is the crossing of Lake Pontchartrain. Sit on the left if you want to see nothing but water; sit on the right if you want a distant view of the shore.
5. The formal name of the station, originally, was New Orleans Union Passenger Terminal. I don't think it's been changed. The Magnolia Room is New Orleans's equivalent of the Metropolitan Lounge for sleeper passengers; it is clearly marked and is behind the Amtrak waiting area opposite from the ticket counter. Can't help you on exactly what services it provides; it was closed when I arrived by sleeper last time and I left via coach.
6. Can't help much; don't know the area.
7a. Find a store (many convenience stores, just ask a local) where you can buy a day pass for $5.00 or a 3 (consecutive) day pass for $12.00 - unlimited rides. The streetcar system is excellent; I recommend that you take the St. Charles line out to South Carrollton and have breakfast at the Camellia Grill—old-fashioned 50s type diner (counter seats only), excellent food, HUGE portions-you may want to share.
7b. Yes. By all means, do it. Take the steamer Natchez for a wonderful ride down the river and back. You may want to come hungry, the (optional) lunch they offered looked inviting. I had just eaten, but I did splurge for the bread pudding. Don't pass up the chance to explore the engineroom; no machinery is quite as fascinating as an authentic reciprocating steam engine.
7c. A tour is recommended for this; if you get a good guide you will get all kinds of detailed information about the burial process that you would never know from just looking at the outside of the tombs. You may also see and learn about some of the lasting Katrina damage. Gray Line offers a package with a half-day city tour in the morning and a steamboat Natchez cruise in the afternoon; it is well worth the cost.
7d. No information; can't help.
7e. The D-Day/World War II museum is very highly recommended. A short walk from the St. Charles line streetcar stop on Lee Circle; just ask the motorman.
7x. Cafe Maspero, on Decatur street just across from the Jackson brewery (front of the French Quarter, one block from the river). Fried seafood, enormous portions. I'll visit there again.
Hope this helps----Eric.
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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You've got me ready to book a trip to the Big Easy tonight! I haven't been back since Katrina, either, but my brother and sister-in-law (from Tennessee) were just there in their motor home. (They found what they said was one of the best RV facilities ever within walking distance of the Quarter.) My brother especially enjoyed the WW II museum.
Frank in wet SBA
Posts: 2160 | From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: Oct 2003
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I took the CONO from Chicago to NOL last June. I don't really remember if left side or right side had more scenery, but my roomette was on the left side. You can see pics on my website of the entry into New Orleans (on the left side).
I also have some pictures of Union Passenger Terminal, including the entry to the Magnolia Room. The Magnolia Room was very small compared to the Metro Lounge in stations like Chicago and Washington. They had coffee, bottled water, cookies, and a TV. I was there about 45 minutes before departure on the Sunset, and all the seats were taken. I sat out in the main waiting area. Also, I had to get the PIN access code for the Magnolia Room at the Amtrak ticket counter.
There were alot of taxis at the station as noted above, however, I walked to my Holiday Inn which was fairly close to the station.
Hope that helps. Andy
Posts: 120 | From: Arizona | Registered: Mar 2007
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quote:Originally posted by a meyer: I took the CONO from Chicago to NOL last June. I don't really remember if left side or right side had more scenery, but my roomette was on the left side. You can see pics on my website of the entry into New Orleans (on the left side).
Link to your website?
-------------------- --------Eric H. Bowen
Stop by my website: Streamliner Schedules - Historic timetables of the great trains of the past! Posts: 413 | From: Houston, Texas | Registered: Mar 2006
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All the above suggestions are great, especially the day pass for the St. Charles St. streetcar. Be sure to stop in the Garden District on your way to Camelia Grill, just to walk around...beautiful houses.
If you want a free ride across the Miss. R., take the Algiers Ferry at the bottom of Canal St.
For dining, my best meal at a reasonable cost was at Mandina's at 3800 Canal St. It has been fully renovated since Katrina. This a place where the 'folks'eat. Best bread pudding I've ever had. www.mandinasrestaurant.com
Finally, on your last day, tell the taxi driver to stop at Uglesich's. It's not out of your way to the train station and you'll have a wonderful New Orleans fried oyster Po Boy to eat on the train. www.uglesichs.comPosts: 33 | From: Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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Hard to add to the excellent suggestions already made, except just take time to relax and soak up the great atmosphere in the French Quarter (and I don't mean Bourbon St.). A leisurely coffee and beignets with the morning paper and then a stroll around Jackson Square and your morning is gone.
Our favorite inexpensive lunch spot is http://www.gumboshop.com. You'll love the St. Charles streetcar, I could ride that all day, especially on a nice spring day with the windows open. But then, since we spent the second night of our honeymoon there quite a few years ago, I am definitely biased.
I am sure it has changed but it may still be possible to get great deals on hotels. I was there not long after Katrina and the cab driver told me the Ritz Carlton had a rate of $99 shortly after it reopened. I would sure recommend staying in the French Quarter. No it is not Disney clean and there are tourists, but still a unique part of this country.
Posts: 2397 | From: Camden, SC | Registered: Mar 2006
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All I can help you with is from my trip, NOL to CHI, a little over two years ago and has to do with the "Magnolia Room." Don't expect too much; just a plain vanilla waiting room, as I recall. I was able to park a vehicle at the station for $3.50 per day, and it was safe there for over a week; of course, that shouldn't be your problem. Enjoy!
-------------------- Ocala Mike Posts: 1530 | From: Ocala, FL | Registered: Dec 2006
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One word of warning - the Natchez does not have the Calliope Concert on Sundays (a courtesy to those along the river who might find the music an intrusion on the Sabbath) and that is part of the "experience" you do not want to miss.
The city tour is a good overview tour that does stop at one of the above ground cemeteries giving you time to walk around there. I had an excellent tour guide who provided great info on burial customs there.
The Magnolia Room is rather small and becomes quite crowded at times prior to trains leaving. Access is gained by use of a pin number (provided at ticket counter)that you enter into a keypad on door. Recall that coffee and I think soda available. (Coffee one grade above vending machine coffee.)
Lots to do in the city and nearby -- I am planning a return visit to do some of the things I did not have time for when I was there.
Posts: 460 | From: North Central CT | Registered: May 2004
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Again for me it was pre-Katrina and it was one of my favourite cities.
1. Left side facing forward from Jackson. Lake Ponchartrain is on that side and you'll be skirting the lake on what is allegedly the longest continuous railway curve in the world - or at least the US. Coming into NO you have the airport on your left, bridges over the Mississippi on your right, and then the Superdome on your left.
7a. If you like zoos, take the streetcar to the Audabon zoo somewhere to the west of the city. You go through the Garden District. There's also a great aquarium on the riverfront.
7b. Cajun swamp tours are fun, if you don't mind getting close to nature and (edit)alligators(/edit).
7c. I was always told to visit cemetries on a guided tour, not alone, and never after dark unless in a guided tour. On the subject of crime, don't head north out of the French Quarter. Other areas are unsafe as well - best check with your hotel.
7d. You can't avoid having a good evening with whatever kind of music you like!
The Riverwalk (?) is a good place to shop and has a reasonably good food court. Not a patch on the restaurants outside but good enough for a quick lunch beside the Mississippi.
Geoff M.
-------------------- Geoff M. Posts: 2426 | From: Apple Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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Sojourner, don't worry about the reptiles on the swamp tour. They're alligators, not crocodiles. (Not that they won't chew on you some.)
Posts: 2236 | From: Evanston, Ill. and Ontonagon, Mich. | Registered: Feb 2007
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I give you now Professor Twist, A conscientious scientist. His colleagues said, "He never bungles!" And sent him off to distant jungles. While camping by a riverside, He one day missed his darling bride. She had, the guide informed him later, Been eaten by an alligator. Professor Twist could naught but smile. "You mean," he said, "A crocodile."
typed from memory with apologies to Ogden Nash
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: I give you now Professor Twist, A conscientious scientist. His colleagues said, "He never bungles!" And sent him off to distant jungles. While camping by a riverside, He one day missed his darling bride. She had, the guide informed him later, Been eaten by an alligator. Professor Twist could naught but smile. "You mean," he said, "A crocodile."
typed from memory with apologies to Ogden Nash
Oh.....Mr. Ira would be proud!
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Not much to add to all the informative posts above, except that I was in NO last summer and found it looking surprisingly good, even after Katrina. Staying in the French Quarter is great if you can find a place, but the "Warehouse District" has some good hotels (and restaurants too), is close to the train station (walking distance, even), and the St. Charles and Canal streetcars are readily accessible.
For music, try Faubourg Marigny, just the other side of the French Quarter from Canal Street.
If you ride to the end of the Canal streetcar line, you'll stop right between two large cemetaries (it's out by Lake Ponchartrain).
Do try to stop at the Camellia Grill for breakfast or lunch. It has finally reopened, the food is wonderful, and it's the only counter joint I've ever been to with a hostess.
I haven't been there, but I've heard lots of VERY good things about the WWII museum.
There are river tours that go up to one of the famous rice plantations (Tchopitoulas, Oak Alley). Try to get one of those.
Baton Rouge is forgettable, but just north is East Feliciana Parish, full of wonderful historic plantation houses and evocative Victorian cemeteries. Try to get there.
And have a great time! I've been to New Orleans many times, and I love the city. I'm so glad that it seems to be recovering.
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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If you take the Canal St streetcar going away from the river (the one marked "City Park" - not "Cemeteries") the end of the line will be at the entrance to City Park. If you go right, across Bayou St. John down Esplanade, in a couple of blocks you come to a very interesting completely safe cemetery. The whole neighborhood is charming (and safe) and has a topnotch lunch spot called Liuzza's at the Track (this is the neighborhood of the racetrack and fairgrounds where the Jazz Fest is held) as well as a dinner spot called Cafe Degas. There is also a very old interesting safe cemetery on the river side of the St. Charles streetcar line around Napoleon St. I believe. Check a map. I have been to NOLA since Katrina and Loved it still. I am ready to go back NOW. Actually I'm considering moving there.
Posts: 326 | From: San Antonio Texas USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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I'm with Frank in Santa Barbara - I want to book a trip right now. Never been to NOL, but it's definitely on my list - maybe next year.
-------------------- My new "default" station (EKH) has no baggage service or QuikTrak machine, but the parking is free! And the NY Central RR Museum is just across the tracks (but not open at Amtrak train times. . ..) Posts: 337 | From: Goshen, IN | Registered: Jun 2006
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Wife and I were in NOL in October 08 after ride on the CONO from Chicago. We enjoyed the experience immensely. Stayed at the Quality Inn Maisson in Garden District and rode the St. Charles Streetcar all up and down the area. Took a short walk to a neat cemetery, walked the French Quarter for hours, then to Jackson Square,the Cathedral is nice-- more streetcar rides up and down the river, lunch at French Market Cafe --live music and good food--, toured some art shops, and a Canal Street ride to downtown. Cheesecake Bistro on St. Charles for supper-very good food and nice atmosphere. Magnolia Lounge is very small-no snacks available in the am before we left on the Crescent. Do need a pin # to enter. Taxis in front of the station. Redcaps hailing cabs and put your luggage in the cab or van. East side of train on the CONO was our choice. Breakfast in the new diner out of Memphis gave a view of both sides for awhile. Coming into NOL, the east side gives great view of lake and the city. Hope this helps. Have a good time. We can't wait to go back to New Orleans. Railroad and newly retired Mrs. RR Bill
Posts: 87 | From: Ohio | Registered: Apr 2007
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Sojourner -- I don't have much to add after all these very informative posts above. Concerning scenery, I can talk about the highlights of the CONO and Crescent as I see them:
Coming into Memphis, sit on the right hand side going south for views of the Mississippi River. South of Memphis, you pass through "the Delta" -- not too much to see except lots of cotton fields (and other crops), but the historic importance of the Delta is worth reading up on (it's also the home of the "Delta blues" type music, and it is interesting to see some of the poor little cotton towns where that type of music started)
On the Crescent, to paraphrase another Forum member -- "if you've seen one kudzu plant, you've seen them all." But there are some interesting and pretty little towns the Crescent passes through in the clearings between the kudzu and pine trees, and there are some scenic river crossings along that route over high trestles. Of course, the trip across Lake Pontchartrain is interesting too -- and it doesn't matter what side of the train you sit on crossing the lake, because you're going to see water no matter what!!!
Have a great trip! I hope you aren't going to be in NO during Mardi Gras, are you? And, like others here have said, if you stick with guided tours and walk around town in the daylight(especially the French quarter), you'll be fine, but I would not walk after dark anywhere in the city, except maybe Bourbon Street, where there are plenty of tourists and law enforcement personnel around.
I also second the idea of taking the "Cajun Swamp Tour," which is several miles south of town, but you get there via a Gray Line Tour that starts downtown.
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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Riding the Crescent one often feels like it's 'Kudzu Planet' and not just 'Kudzu Plant'.
I really do find the scenery for the Crescent interesting (it picks up) between Birmingham and Atlanta though. There are some hills, sharp curves, and numerous aforementioned interesting little towns.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by notelvis: Riding the Crescent one often feels like it's 'Kudzu Planet' and not just 'Kudzu Plant'.
One of my now gone relatives worked for the Department of Agriculture in the 1930's when they had and he was put into a program to encourage planting of Kudzu to control erosion. One of his comments to several others in the family was to the effect that, in a few years we will be coming up with programs to try to get rid of this stuff.
Yes, the stuff controls erosion, but it smothers out everything else and is almost impossible to kill off. About the only thing it will not climb is a creosoted pole, but it will climb guy wires and then reach out to the lines between poles. Each year a new layer grows over the old one. The stuff has very tiny flowers that attract honey bees with enthusiasm. (Kudzu Honey??) In a few years it will cover the ground with a mat of vines that is literally waist deep - or more.
Anybody wonder why I am very skeptical of any and all attempts to meddle with nature? We ain't 1/10 as smart as we think we are in understanding natural processes. That includes most of the nonsense on "global warming."
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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Thanks, everyone, for your additional input. I am not going for Mardi Gras, RRRich, but I will be traveling before too many trees leaf in on the Crescent, so hopefully I'll see a little something! But is it really necessary to take a cab EVERYWHERE at night, even within the French Quarter? I mean, if you go to Preservation Hall and walk back to a hotel near Canal St, do you have to take a TAXI???? Methinks we will spend a fortune in cab fares if this is the case.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Sounds like a great trip. I've always riden the CNO northbound only but agree the east side is best due to the great views of Lake Pontchartrain. RRRich is right that you should be careful in the city. NOL is a very interesting place but I find it a bit creepy as there are lots of shady characters lurking around town. Daylight and common sense will work out well and I advise staying around the French Quarter, the riverfront, and the Garden District. The St. Charles Streetcar line IS magnificent...if a car comes along and looks too crowded, wait for another, it should be just a couple minutes. Strolling around the Garden Districts is a wonderful idea as the homes are gorgeous and represent old NOL. Be sure to visit Cafe duMond in the French Quarter for beniets as they are tasty and are true NOL. The Magnolia Room in the station offers nice quiet though it is small as noted. The Crescent ride over the lake is unforgettable which will start that leg of travel off nicely. Have fun!
Posts: 561 | Registered: Jul 2003
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Ms. Sojourner -- I have stayed in NOL at a couple motels which were relatively close to the Quarter, and have walked to and from at night -- however, I am a man (not to be "sexist," but I think you understand!) I distinctly remember one year when I tried to walk from Bourbon Street to my hotel on Canal, and made a wrong turn somewhere, and, IMMEDIATELY on the other side of some highway overpass, I began seeing very "creepy" type people, as well as drunks sprawled out on the ground all over the place. No, you probably don't have to take a taxi "everywhere," but just BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!! (and use common sense)
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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