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Author Topic: Questions from a rookie
buckeye59
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My wife and I are planning our first train trip this fall. We are planning on taking the Empire Builder out from Cincinnati and the California Zephyr back. I have gotten the answers to most of our questions from the Amtrak website but we are curious about the domed viewing cars. Are the seats in those cars available on a first come first serve basis or do you have to reserve them? I would appreciate any help or advice.
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Ocala Mike
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Good luck catching the Empire Builder in Cincinnati. Better take the Cardinal to Chicago and connect with it there.

As far as "domed viewing cars" are concerned, not sure if any of your trains even have them. If they do, I believe it's first come, first served.

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Ocala Mike

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train lady
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Mr. Buckeye what Mike means is the Builder does not go to Cincinnati unless they have changed the route. It stops in Chicago. The Zephyr also runs no farther than Chicago.The Cardinal is the Cinci train New york-DC- Chicago. You will have to change trains there. (Chicago, that is)
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Mike Smith
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The sightseer car seating is first come, first served. That said, the Zephyr is the route that gets crowded in the sightseer car, especially through the Rockies. Usually you can easily find a seat in the Empire sightseer car.

I would recommend getting a sleeper both ways. Your trip will be much more enjoyable.

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irish1
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are you taking the empire builder to seattle or portland and taking the coast starlight down to san fran or sacremento to catch the zephyr back to chi? some people on this board could really help you with tips on where to stay in any towns you might be staying overnight. also things like what is the best side of the train to sit on for certain routes. need some more info on your trip to help more. enjoy

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The Copper Country Limited [Milwaukee Road-Soo Line] and the Peninsula 400 [CNW} still my favorites

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buckeye59
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I left out the part about us taking the Cardinal from cincy to chicago. We are planning to book a roomette. The main reason we are visiting california is to see the giant redwoods and will be renting a car to get from portland to sacremento.
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Mike Smith
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I assumed you knew how to get from Cincy to Chicago...

That said, your trip sounds like it will be great. The Sequoias are stunning trees and well worth the trip.

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RRRICH
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Just one comment, Buckeye, to add to the other very good comments you receievd -- the Sighstseer Lounge car on the Empire Builder and Zephyr is NOT a "domed" car -- you are likely thinking of the old Vista-Dome cars that used to be very common. Sightseer Lounges are bi-level cars, and the upper level has large windows which wrap around up into the roof, so you can see quite a bit from them. They are not "domes," and, as others have said, seating is first come first served. The Sightseer Lounge cars have a snack bar in the lower level, where you can buy munchies, drinks, etc.
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Gilbert B Norman
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Mr. Buckeye, there are many an experienced Amtrak traveler here including one, Chris Guenzler, who uses handle 'chrisg' and has documented Amtrak travel in excess of one MILLION miles.

Now regarding your proposed trip, so long as sightseeing appears to be an objective of such, if possible I would suggest taking #5, Zephyr, Westward and #28, Empire Builder, Eastward. A WW journey on the Zephyr means X-ing the Rockies by Daylight, during Autumn EW will be either at dusk or darkness. An EW Builder (edited to reflect originator's intent to start travel at Portland vice Seattle) travels the Columbia River daylight, but for the Rockies, you will have to awake early. As for the rest of the trip, I will say, "if you've seen one one wheatfield, you've seen 'em all'. In short, not much in the way of scenery.

Now regarding Sleeping Car accommodations, even though the Roomette has two bunks, that does not make it a two person accommodation (think the "clowns in a Volkswagen" skit). Get Bedrooms for your Zephyr and Builder journeys. However, for your Cinci-Chi journey on The Cardinal, a Roomette will be OK as the best you can hope for on that leg would be a "catnap' or two. But should you have any personal mobility issues, including excessive body weight, a Roomette for two persons is simply out of the question.

Finally, regarding the immediate comment made by RRRICH, here is a photo of a Vista Dome car that is no longer operated by Amtrak. They replaced such with Sightseer Lounges; therefore any references in this topic to 'domes', "lounges' or even "observation cars" are addressing this latter style of car.

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palmland
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You might consider taking the Zephyr out to CA and the Builder on the return. More daylight for the best scenery that way - the climb up the mountains from Denver westbound is especially spectacular.

Cincinnati is my all time favorite station. Although with just one train in the middle of the night, it is now mostly just a very good museum. But, it is well worth allowing some time to explore it during the day.

As huge as it is, imagine a grand concourse extending over 17 tracks where the Imax theater now stands. Seven railroads had trains there with classic streamliners to all points of the compass. The murals in the rotunda are a real work of art. Sadly, when the concourse was demolished, the murals on its walls were moved to the airport where, I understand, they are no longer visible to the public. It really is a 1933 art deco masterpiece.

It is still a great place to start of train trip, just too bad it's not at a better time of day.

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Ocala Mike
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Agree with palmland about Cincinnati's railroad station. The "Queen City" exemplifies more than most the "disappearing railroad blues."

Just one question. Shouldn't you be "bearcat59"?

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Ocala Mike

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TwinStarRocket
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The major difference between the old dome cars and the Amtrak sightseer lounge is no window in the front anymore, because the roof of the whole (bi-level)train is the same height. I do recommend for the spectacular ride up the hill west of Denver with 28 tunnels, that a seat toward the rear of the sightseer lounge gives you more range of vision forward.
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buckeye59
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Thanks everyone, this is very helpful stuff. I will seriously consider the Zephyr west and Builder east option. As for the roomette being too small, the bigger rooms just cost more than we want to spend. If nessessary we can sleep in the seats (are they as big as the coach seats?)and still have the privacy of the sleeper.
Ocala Mike, I'm just buckeye because I'm from Ohio. As for Union terminal I love it but have never been there other than to see the museum. Their website has a confusing "business hours" schedule and I need to know if they have a parking lot I'd want to leave a car in for two weeks. I may have to just go there and check it out.

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TwinStarRocket
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In the 2 roomette seats that face each other, you kind of share the same foot space and they don't recline. The beds are comfy but the top has no window and is close to the ceiling, especially bad for anyone with claustrophobia. Sleeping in a roomette seat would be more difficult than a coach seat.

With the lower bed down, your standing room is barely larger than your ankles. It is possible to lower only the top bunk and still have both seats and a bit of floor available. It is basically a cozy place to crawl in and sleep and nothing else. Bring duct tape or pins for the sometimes worn out velcro on aisle curtains to insure complete privacy. There is a lockable (from inside only) sliding door with large windows. If an outside curtain is drawn, your privacy in stations is not so good.

My favorite way to use roomettes is for sleeping and privacy, and spend the rest of the time in the sightseer lounge. No need for a bedroom unless you prefer your own shower, toilet and a big lower bed with standing room. Westbound out of Denver you must stake out a lounge seat early.

I have been on an eastbound Empire Builder with a more than full lounge through Glacier. They sell space even though coach seats are sold out for people who want to take day round trip on the train through Glacier from Whitefish and back. That and Denver are the only 2 spots I know of where you may have to really plan breakfast around staking out a lounge seat well before the train leaves Denver or WFH. The Columbia River Gorge generally has a full lounge too, but seats may open up over time. Eastbound, just go right there in the Portland station and you will be fine.

You could also consider a car drop-off in Eugene to avoid the Portland traffic.

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notelvis
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I concur with others who have suggested that you consider the California Zephyr westbound and the Empire Builder back..... simply because if your Empire Builder is an hour (or more) late you will cross Marias Pass adjacent to Glacier Park after dark....

And after spending the entire day crossing North Dakota and Montana it would be a shame not getting that scenic payoff at the end of the day.

If you do use this 'clockwise' routing, I'd also plan an overnight stay in Oregon or Seattle before catching the Empire Builder..... this way you won't spend your entire ride on the Coast Starlight worrying about whether you'll make your connection. Again, it would be a shame missing a ride up the Columbia River (between Portland and near Pasco) because you're on a bus trying to catch up to the train in Pasco or Spokane.

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David Pressley

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Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes.

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Ocala Mike
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buckeye59, nothing wrong with being from Ohio. I work with a guy who's originally from the Dayton area, and he never lets me forget it.

Hope you and your wife have a great trip, however you decide to manage it, and hope you get back to Ohio and write Gov. Kasich (who seems to be a railphobe) to tell him about your trip.

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Henry Kisor
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To TwinStarRocket's sensible advice about getting a seat toward the rear of the westbound Zephyr lounge car out of Denver, I'll add two things:

1. Sit on the right side of the car (facing toward the locomotives). That way you will have the best view as the train mounts the Front Range, and as it snakes through the mountains for the first 90 minutes or so. After Granby try to get to the left side for the best views of Byers, Gore and Little Gore Canyons. Return to the right side for the ride through Glenwood Canyon.

2. Claim your lounge car seat well before the train departs Denver. I often don't get off at Denver but take a book to the lounge car as soon as the train stops. There are always a dozen or so people who have the same idea.

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notelvis
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buckeye59,

Take Henry's advice - after all, he literally 'wrote the book' on riding the California Zephyr!

While I'm thinking about that - I spent some time rearranging a couple of shelves on my railroad bookcase today - Henry, you're now between a collection of stories by one Rogers E.M. Whitaker and a book by George Scheer titled 'Booked on the Morning Train'..... kind of a travel narrative section if you will.

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David Pressley

Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!

Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes.

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train lady
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I sound like a broke record on the subject of roomettes.we never had a problem with one.It just takes a bit of creativity.During the day the carry ons sat on the steps going up to the top berth. At night either under the bed (but they must be flat) or on the end of my bed (lower). I am 5 ft. 4 so they didn't bother me. My husband was a little over 6 ft and he had no problem. just took his clothes down to the upper level bathroom and changed there. We found that while in the room we could be comfortable with my feet on the side of his seat and visa versa. Also you can put a carry on on the floor and put your feet on that. In short we never had a complaint and enjoyed our trips some of which were all the way to the west coast from DC.In my book anything is better than coach. A lot depends on your attitude. We put up with things that we never would have at home but travel is an adventure and if you expect luxury you either pay a lot for it or stay home. I could write a book on all the screwy things that happened on our trips. And now I will get off my soap box.
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Ocala Mike
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quote:
Originally posted by notelvis:

Henry, you're now between a collection of stories by one Roger E.M. Whitaker

David, that name rings a bell. Didn't he write articles on rail travel "back in the day" under a pseudonym, E. M. Frimbo? I seem to remember reading some of his stuff off library shelves as a youngster.
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irish1
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can always count on the fine folks here to help out. i rest my case!

--------------------
The Copper Country Limited [Milwaukee Road-Soo Line] and the Peninsula 400 [CNW} still my favorites

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Geoff Mayo
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quote:
Originally posted by train lady:
I sound like a broke record on the subject of roomettes.we never had a problem with one.

You're not alone! Two grown men sharing a roomette is fine in most cases. If you have oodles of money then by all means go for the bedroom, but don't feel slighted just because a few on here shout "don't do the roomette" as if it's some kind of legal requirement.

(Can I share your soapbox, train lady?)

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Geoff M.

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Henry Kisor
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Perhaps the level of antipathy toward two-in-a-roomette depends on the intensity of one's arthritis?
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train lady
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Geoff, you may share my soap box any time . There is always room for others (who agree with me!!!) A man and woman also do just fine in most cases
Henry, My arthritis didn/t complain at all. On the other hand my husband very nicely took the upper berth

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Mike Smith
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I agree with Geoff and train lady. My wife & I have taken numerous trips in the roomette with minimal problems and considerable savings, vs the bedroom cost. (We are approaching 100,000 Amtrak miles)

That said, I do like the bedroom for those 2:00am trips to the restroom.

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notelvis
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quote:
Originally posted by Ocala Mike:
quote:
Originally posted by notelvis:

Henry, you're now between a collection of stories by one Rogers E.M. Whitaker

David, that name rings a bell. Didn't he write articles on rail travel "back in the day" under a pseudonym, E. M. Frimbo? I seem to remember reading some of his stuff off library shelves as a youngster.
That's correct Mike - he wrote under the name E.M. Frimbo.

Also in my collection......nearby but not directly adjacent.... are several of the travel narratives by Paul Theroux. My favorite of these is probably 'The Old Patagonian Express'. I really enjoy Theroux's accounts of the trains and places he has been but I get hung up a bit on his cultural analysis. Yes, I find it interesting to read his observations BUT Theroux throughout maintains kind of an aristocratic aloofness. Perhaps this is neccessary for giving an unbiased account but as often as not it comes across as an air of superiority.....

BUT then I would have enjoyed replicating some of his travels to the degree that it was still possible. Closest I ever came though was briefly dating a girl who had done some mission work in South America and was completing a degree in Spanish!

--------------------
David Pressley

Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!

Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes.

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sojourner
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On balance, I'd recommend you go out on the Zephyr and back on the Empire Builder if you can, esp as you are traveling in autumn, when days are shorter. For me, it's not so much because of the Empire Builder--changing to eastbound on that train at that time of year will likely mean that you will miss the Columbia River Gorge (Portland to about Pasco), arguably just as lovely as Glacier Park. What's more, I don't know WHEN in autumn you are traveling, but if it's September, chances are you will see some of Glacier Park westbound, although you will definitely miss the entirely Mississippi River (which, though third on the scale of nice scenery on the EB, is still quite nice since the train really "does" the Mississippi, unlike the Zephyr and SW Chief, which merely cross it).

But no, the reason I urge you consider changing is because of the Zephyr. Eastbound on the Zephyr in autumn means missing too much of the run from Salt Lake City to Denver, which is probably the most gorgeous of any scenery Amtrak offers. ESPECIALLY if the train is late--and eastbound, the Zephyr is quite often late by the time it gets into Colorado, at least in my experience.

As to the debate about sleepers and so on, keep in mind Amtrak has 2 kinds of sleepers, Viewliner (your Cardinal) and Superliner double decker (Empire Builder and CA Zephyr). The latter has nice observation cars with plenty of glass where you can spend a lot of time, so if you have a roomette you don't have to be there so much! It also has a shelf on the lower level of each sleeping car (near where you enter) where you can leave your larger luggage (at your own risk, of course, but I've never had any trouble--you might mark it in some way so it doesn't look like everyone else's)--and still have access to it during your 2-day trip between Chi and the West Coast.

You definitely don't want to bring your larger luggage into any shared roomette--just bring overnight bag (more on what to put in that in another post--but when you have your larger luggage accessible on that shelf, it's not so crucial what to put in for overnight).

Superliner roomette passengers use hall toilets (1 on upper level--several more, plus changing room/shower, on lower level), and the roomettes have no commodes and sinks, nor are there windows on the upper berth. I think you'll be fine sharing these, as long as you aren't too fussy. If you feel cramped for space, just make use of the observation car; there is also time spent in the dining car, which is generally very pleasant and good for viewing scenery too (and making friends).

Also, unless you have trouble with steps, I'd recommend getting a sleeper on the upper level of Superliners. The scenery is much better, there IS that one upper-level hall toilet, and the dining car and observation/lounge car are all on the upper level. (I forget which numbers are the lower level rooms--maybe 11-14? plus the handicapped room)

The Viewliner trains, such as the Cardinal, are single level. Roomettes do have windows in the upper berth, and there is a commode and sink in the roomette. They also tend to have better lighting than the Superliner roomettes for night reading, though some of the latter has improved lately. BUT there is no hall toilet, which is often a problem for two people sharing one roomette (there is a hall shower, btw). Sinks are fine for shared use, of course, but every time 1 person needs to use a toilet, the other either has to leave or shut his/her eyes! And if very odiferous, the odor is right there! If neither course is amenable, the person using the facilities has to go through several cars to the lounge or sometimes coach cars, neither of which is always that clean, esp as the trip progresses. . . .

The Viewliners have only a regular lounge, not a sighseer lounge--i.e., much smaller windows, no swivel chair seating--still OK for viewing but not great, and often crowded with coach passengers eating not to mention 2-3 tables of train staff doing paperwork and whatnot.

Being single level also means there is no lower level to leave larger luggage. Cincinnati now has checked luggage, I believe, but whether you can check just as far as Chicago (which I'd recommend, I think, though it will cut into your time in Chicago picking it up), I don't know--others might comment on this--but if you check luggage all the way to the West Coast, it means no access to it for 3 nights, right? Again, others must comment. (There is also the possibility it might get lost in transfer in Chicago, but I don't think this happens too often on Amtrak.)

For these reasons, traveling on a Viewliner, it's much better to get a room if you are two people (or 2 roomettes, if cheaper). However, as you are traveling only between Cincinnati and Chicago, I again think you'll be OK. The Cardinal is not Amtrak's greatest train, anyway, and the very fine scenery it offers is east of Cincinnati, so you won't see that.

Finally, I just want to mention that Chicago Union Station, where you will be making your change of trains, has a Metropolitan Lounge, a kind of first class lounge for sleeper passengers to wait and board. It includes free snacks and luggage checking (in case you want to leave luggage and go for a walk, see sights, etc--though taking the Cardinal you probably won't have much time in Chicago either way, alas.) and TV and newspapers . . . it is often quite crowded just before western trains leave, though. You are entitled to use this lounge whenever you are taking a sleeper either into or out of Chicago or both on a particular day (so if you came in coach instead of sleeper from Cincinnati but were leaving the same day on a sleeper on the Zephyr or EB, you would be entitled to use it). Look for signs or ask personnel etc where it is--it's kind of behing the Hertz rental desk.

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Gilbert B Norman
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Having just completed a phone conversation with Mr. PullmanCo (who I do know face-to-face), I will defer to his thoughts regarding this Bedroom v. Roomette a deux matter.

I have met the real-life "E.M. Frimbo" aka Rogers E.M. Whittaker first in the Obs-Lounge of the PRR Broadway Limited, then later aboard the Amtrak varietal of such. In fact he was in my home where the host of a railfan radio show (a forerunner to Let's Talk Trains) that aired on a low-power FM station (X-mtr 25 miles away in Northbrook; "touch and go if I could receive it) interviewed him. I even got on-air credit for providing the 'studio".

Yes Virginia, I too was once a railfan.

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palmland
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Methinks you are still a railfan, GBN, albeit somewhat in the closet.
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notelvis
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quote:
Originally posted by palmland:
Methinks you are still a railfan, GBN, albeit somewhat in the closet.

And even if you are not still a railfan, you still kind of like those of us who are when we quit foaming long enough to offer some intelligent and well-reasoned conversation.

--------------------
David Pressley

Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!

Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes.

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Henry Kisor
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GBN is STILL a railfan . . . else why does he frequent the rail forums? Or take the occasional joyride? It's just the intensity of his railfannery that has changed.
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HopefulRailUser
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Sojourner, your discussion of larger luggage in the Viewliner leads me to ask about my upcoming trip on the LSL. We do have a bedroom booked. We will have one larger suitcase and are going CHI to BOS. Must I check this bag? No place to put it?

By the way, I am using several of the hotels you recommended. Can't wait for this trip.

--------------------
Vicki in usually sunny Southern California

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PullmanCo
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Welcome to overnight passenger rail travel.

Let's define some terms:

VIEWLINER: A single level sleeping car, used generally East of the Mississippi. Your train to Chicago will use this sleeper.

SUPERLINER: A bi-level sleeping car, used Nationwide, but it's the only car you see west of the Mississippi.

Roomette: An ~18 sq ft accommodation. Lower berth is always 28 inches wide.
The upper berth on a VIEWLINER is 28" wide.
The upper berth on a SUPERLINER is 24" wide (narrower than a backpacking mattress!)

The height, floor to ceiling of a VIEWLINER is ~8 1/2 feet. The height, floor to ceiling, of a SUPERLINER is about 6'10".

On a VIEWLINER, the upper berth passenger has windows. On a SUPERLINER, only the lower berth passenger has windows.

IF you are in any way claustrophobic, then a SUPERLINER upper berth is not for you. Short version: The space is about the size of a coffin or a Navy submarine sailor's berth.

I am with GBN: Pay the extra money on the Zephyr and the Builder (your proposed trains West of Chicago, get a Deluxe Bedroom (42 sq ft, private facilities, worth the luchre!).

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PullmanCo
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Oh, and GBN is very much a fan, but he's not a foamer anymore [Smile]

--------------------
The City of Saint Louis (UP, 1967) is still my standard for passenger operations

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yukon11
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As one who usually has to get up, in the middle of the night, to visit the bathroom, I have often wondered if there is a reason why Amtrak did not put a commode and sink in the Superliner roomettes?

Trying to negotiate those stairs, at 3 AM, down to the toilets, below, felt like Orpheus descending into the Underworld.

Richard

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Henry Kisor
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Possibly Amtrak realized that putting a commode and sink into a Superliner roomette would pose the same problem that the old single-level roomettes of yore did: for the passenger to get at the commode, the bed had to be raised back into the wall. Not so much of a problem if you have the plumbing of a 20-year-old, but for geezers . . . !
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train lady
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there is a bathroom on the upper level and it is bigger than the ones down stairs.Vicki the size of the suitcase determines if you have enough room for it. I never had a problem with a 24 in soft side. You just have to be creative.
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sojourner
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Vicki, the four times I had bedrooms (as opposed to roomettes) we never had trouble with TWO suitcases there--we put them over near where the chair sometimes goes. But as Train Lady says, it does depend on the size. In general, I'd go for 25" absolute maximum; if the suitcase you were planning on taking is bigger than that, I'd recommend you each take your own suitcase rather than go for a single big one, which you would find it a drag getting around on the NEC trains, not to mention stations and all sorts of other places.
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Gilbert B Norman
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Volks, when George Mortimer's descendants designed the Roomette during the '30's and first placed such in revenue service during 1937 (I'm prepared to be corrected on that point) with roundly an 18sq ft platform, all they had in mind was a single person accommodation. While I think such was a wise decision, it was Amtrak that chose to make such with two beds - no doubt to emulate the Budd Slumbercoach marketed to the railroads that was simply and blatantly an 'econosnooze'.

Now let's compare the "hotel on wheels' with the hotel on land. Circa 1937, even leading hotels in major cities had an array of rooms that were often described as "broom closets". Such had maybe a 40sq ft footprint ("WC" was down the hall) and keeping that a "twin" bed is about 24', there was not too much room for much else. I stayed in a few of those back in my later '50's early 60's traveling days; "not no moe".

Today when the average hotel room at a mid-level brand such as Marriott Courtyard is likely 200sq ft (and the 'bath" simply presumed), no wonder parties of two that have booked a Roomette are known to say "oh my God'. How do you think such "went down' on some folk (very nice) I once met on an AT journey (about #12 I would guess - Feb 01), he a cardiologist, she an RN. The train was sold, and so far as they were concerned, their Bennie S-Class had a better night of it.

Again I reiterate my earlier position. The Amtrak Roomette is a single person accommodation that has two beds. It is my normal accommodation when traveling solo (claustrophobia has never been an issue so I use the Upper bunk, and the lower area is my 'dressing room' - I am almost 70 but able bodied and with no real body weight "issues"). The second bunk is for a small child travelling with an adult, two adolescents whose family has a Bedroom elsewhere on the train, or two adults, preferably young adults, that have been properly briefed that they are essentially booking an "indoor camping' accommodation. Such is simply unacceptable to me, I have my creature comforts at home so when traveling why should I give them up?

But to Mr. and Mrs. Rookie, 'we report, you decide".

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Mike Smith
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It has been a while since I broke out my picture of my 25" Samsonite luggage, especially designed to fit in a roomette. Here it is, in it's place in a roomette I traveled in:

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